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babyblue11371

Grafting question

21 years ago

The most recent grafting I tried I thought was going great it looked very healthy.I waited a couple of days.. then I forced it. the very next day I noticed it starting to turn brown. now the graft is entirely dead. I unbent the "forcing" though it is notched half way through. the top of the root stock still is healthy. I am attempting another graft. what are the chances for it?

Comments (10)

  • 21 years ago

    Wait 4-6 weeks before forcing.

    Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

  • 21 years ago

    Dumb question....how do you "force"? Did she bend the branch to stress it so more energy goes to graft? Something like that?
    Patty

  • 21 years ago

    Patty yes, bending above the graft is called forcing. - Millet

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks Millet, I'm getting ready to try my first grafting expo, but might have to wait till spring when the bark is slipping. Been reading up on it for 3 yrs now so I think I'm ready to go!
    Patty

  • 21 years ago

    So my question. since the root stock had already been forced once does that mean it is compost? or will the graft I just did have a chance? I did forget to wait the 4 weeks. Dang.. need to read the instructions each time I guess.
    I am trying to regraft the root stock. what are it's chances? if it works.. I WILL remember to wait the 4 weeks this time..
    Any ideas?

  • 21 years ago

    BabyBlue - Your second graft has a chance. Hopefully your bark is still slipping, and hopefully you made a new cut. When my grafts have failed after forcing, I don't bother bending it back into shape. In fact, many times, it will callous on its own. Feel free to post/email some photos. Good luck.

  • 21 years ago

    Thanks for the input!!!
    I think that this graft is one of the best ones I have done. After studying studying and re studying MrTx pages I realized I was trying to use one of the most difficult buds to use. the extremely angular "new growth" buds, as I was using the newest buds and branches. This Graft I took directly off the tree rather than sniping the new growth off and trying to get a decent bud from that. I lightly wrapped the wound where I took the bud from. hope this does not adversely affect George he has been through so much and has held up like a trouper. The bud I took was close to the trunk and very nice and extremely easy to work with. I was thinking before that I was just terrible at grafting trying bud after bud and going through several buds to get just one to work right. Guess it is a wonder Nola survived at all.. she was a very angular bud but she is now about 20" tall!!!
    I have looked and looked and did not find wait 4 weeks to force the bud on MrTx page. But I do recall that was what I was told when I grafted Nola.
    I will keep you all posted on how well this new graft goes.
    Since the root stock had been forced and is continuing to bud should I leave the new buds for now? or take them off? I would think I need to leave them to give the "force" some where to go and I can remove them after the new graft has taken good hold.
    May the "force" be WITH you!! hehehe.. just couldn't resist...
    Gina *Jedi blue*

  • 21 years ago

    Here it is little over a week later. I removed the tape to check on the graft. OH MY!!! It looks great!! better than what Nola looked. the T-bud wound has healed and you can hardly notice that there were cuts made. the bud it's self look nice and green. It seems to lay better in the t. I have left the shoots the root stock has sent out. I will take pictures of the new graft tomorrow when the camera batteries are fully charged. I am very pleased with how "pretty" this one turned out. Taking older buds instead of young buds made a BIG difference in ease of the grafting. I did rewrap the bud with the tape I will probably leave it another week at least. unless someone else has a better idea. and I will leave the shoots the root stock has sent out for another 3-4 weeks after that.
    The tape I am using is florist tape it does double duty as "rubber band" as well as tape. it stretches with tree growth and sticks to it's self nicely. the knife I used is a small exacto knife I got fairly cheaply.
    think my grafting supplies total about $5.
    I think I will also take pictures of where the bud was taken. I really think this was important. I made a world of difference for me. the plumper bud was LOTS easier to work with. It only took one bud one try with the "older bud" instead of 2-5 buds with the younger buds.
    Take Care
    Gina *BabyBlue*

  • 20 years ago

    Gina I viewed some of the postings on the Fig Forum an found this on Grafting Figs, The posting was made by "axier" of Spain showing Chip Budding very nice photo's

    I realize that he is writing about figs an not Citrus, but he states that Chip Budding can be done at vegetative growing versus bark slipping for T-budding

    The link to "axier" posting can be follwed at the link below Dale

    Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting Figs

  • 20 years ago

    I posted some new photos. I was able to get good close up pics of the budding and where I took the bud from.
    Thanks for the link to the info on chip budding drichard.
    Oh.. about George.. he has 2 fruit still hanging on.. and is about to bloom again. and is covered in new growth.
    Nola seems to be just sittin. maybe she is resting for her next growth spurt. She is still healthy and happy looking.

    Gina *BabyBlue*

    Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of tree