I've tried a few different kinds of cups. This year (and last) my favorite was a plastic 'Coke' style cup which I drilled 10 holes into the bottom.

I have found the tapered shape of these seems to encourage moisture retention at the bottom (encouraging rooting) but also seems to hasten drying at the top (slowing rotting, molding)

But that's just my preference.

~Chills

OX,

We went to McDonalds & Dairy Queen and got their 18 & 20oz clear cups, then I put a 16 penny nail in some vise grips and heated the nail up on the stove, then I burnt about 6 holes in each cup....It works for me.

Cecil

Yes, I know that many people use the clear cups. My question is have you found them to produce so much root mass that the whole contents, roots, cutting and rooting medium come out as a unified body?

When I used the pop bottles I shook out the vermiculite and had nothing but roots and cutting left to put in the potting soil.
When I used the clear cups the roots bound the vermiculite and I planted the whole thing, vermiculite and all.
Ox

In spite of all this hype about 'clear' cups, I choose to
differ. Yes clear cups DO show root progress; but I also
have a good 'feel' (I think) when 'them' fig rootings are
ready. Good top growth, plus the roots 'may' show down
bottom drainage holes (as an insurance).
Others, may differ from me, but my 'fig matra', is NOT to
disturb them very fragile roots as much as possible.
Sooo, I tend to transplant as-is with intact root/soil mass.
My current rooting medium has at least 50% potting soil.

My choice cups: 18-24 OZ 'tall' Styrofoams, cheap and easy
to punch drain hole (just push a ~1/4- screwdriver, 3-4 cups
at a time). (For plastic, at best use a hot soldering iron).

George:
I used plain vermiculite, but the effect was the same as your practice--I planted a tree with a root mass that tied all that together. The tree does not even know that it has been moved, but now the roots have a bigger pot to explore. Patience may be the key.
Ox