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castlemaster

Requesting advice on pruning airlayered branch

18 years ago

First attempt at airlayering. Followed the excellent advice on this forum about wrapping the soil itself with twine before wrapping the ball in plastic. I did not however count on the tremendous growth of the selected branch! This Italian Golden Honey from Paradise Nursery has put on terrific growth these last few months.

The root ball is approximately 10 inches in length, the branch 6 feet. I removed a few leaves days ago, but probably need to remove more? Advice on how and what to prune? Thanks, Castlemaster.

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Comments (14)

  • 18 years ago

    The leaf/root ratio is too way off balance. I would have
    considered making 3-4 air-layers from that branch in the
    first place.

    Remove all leafs except the top 1-3 on each tip. Mist,
    and cover with a plastic bag, (vent later).
    Put in shade.

  • 18 years ago

    I would cut off all of the new growth, and leave just one or two leaves per branch. This will bring the balance of roots/leaves back into the proper ratio. By all means keep it out of straight sunlight, dappled is good. Keep it well watered and you probably won't even have to use a cover to keep it moist. Nice looking root system, how long was this one wrapped?

  • 18 years ago

    I wouldn't prune anything from this plant. The period from now until dormancy is critical for this tree. The tree is in that part of the growth cycle when it will be storing energy for the winter's rest and spring growth push. To remove foliage now is to substantially diminish the tree's ability to make and store carbohydrates. I would leave the tree in the container and site it in shade, out of wind, until it's able to maintain turgidity during the day, and let nature take it's course. If your intent is to plant it out, you can do that later in fall or early spring.

    Pruning also eliminates the source of auxin, which is needed to stimulate root growth and root branching. The leaves on the plant pictured are matured and already net energy producers - they make more energy than they use. Pruning or defoliating will simply stimulate new leaves, which will be energy sinks (net users of energy) until they are about 75% mature. This will be a very expensive draw-down of the tree's energy reserves, and the new foliage may never mature to the point that there could be an energy return for the tree's outlay. In short - pruning/defoliating will be a major drain on the tree's batteries.

    With a little help from you, by temporarily trying to minimize transpiration, the tree will be able to retain existing foliage and will quickly balance root:canopy on its own. If the root system is unable to keep up with transpirational needs, the tree might shed a few leaves or branch tips on its own, but this still insures the tree retains the maximum photosynthesizing surface area possible in mature leaves.

    Al

  • 18 years ago

    Something I forgot to include: If you decide to leave the tree in the container, even temporarily, it's very important to be sure it's very secure against movement relative to the container. IOW, you don't want it wobbling around in the container so all the hair roots are getting broken every time a breeze hits the tree. A secured tree will establish/reestablish in a fraction of the time it takes a poorly secured or unsecured tree to establish/reestablish.

    Al

  • 18 years ago

    To add to what has already been said... you might want to move the tree into the corner of the house behind the tree in the last picture. You could secure the tree against the wall. As the weather starts to cool down (not freezing though), insulate the container (not the tree) against the wall to retain some heat from the house. If you can keep the container temperature up a little bit, the roots will continue to grow while the top sleeps. Next year, when the tree breaks dormancy, the additional root growth will help support the top.

    ~james

  • 18 years ago

    Wow! You certainly have some differences of opinion on this one. I usually keep my yearling trees growing during the Winter season, dormancy is not an issue with me. The green growth is excessive, it will wilt. If you prune as I suggested the tree still has enough warm weather left to make some new growth, and it will be in keeping with your root system.

  • 18 years ago

    No argument with your Dr. Al (tapla) here. I recently had
    a similar (but different) situation. While up-potting a
    2-3 foot 2007 unkown fig whip, it suddenly leaned over.
    On closer examination, the main twig and roots below 1 inch
    to the surface were rotten; my fault, guess due to over
    watering. I immediately repotted it, covered with a plastic
    dome and left in the same shady place. I do not
    remember, but I could have pulled some of the bottom leafs.
    As time progressed, all the remaining leafs yellowed/fell
    off one by one till only the bare twig was left. I then removed
    the plastic dome. It has been 2-4 weeks since this happened.
    At present 3-4 new healthy leafs came from the tip, and I
    just moved it into semi-shade.

    Most of us do not have the 'perfect' controlled plant
    envionment; e.g., GH, misting, airing, etc., and try to
    make do with what is available.

    One thing I just learned, mature leafs, are better than
    much younger ones (or older ones for that matter).
    Thanks.

    As one of the above piturces says; Have A Nice Day...
    George (NJ)

  • 18 years ago

    I've been doing some rather large air layers (not as big as the one pictured though). I moved them into a cool, moist situation which kept most of them from wilting. The largest, however, drooped badly, so the next day I cut the leaves in half to cut down on transpiration and get it stabilized.
    Interestingly, 2 air layers that had minimal leaf drooping, dropped all their leaves, while the large droopy one managed to keep most of its reduced size leaves.

  • 18 years ago

    I really enjoyed reading everyone's comments, and the reasoning behind the advice. Thanks everyone.

    24 hours later the tree is not wilting too bad, so will leave plastic off for now. I topped some of the new growth and a few more leaves. It's under the deck. We've got a couple of months of 90-100 degree temperatures here in North Carolina so watering will be a challenge.

    The root ball is 6 weeks old, perhaps it did well because it was so low to the ground I could cover it with pine bark, and was in complete shade the whole day. The 4 year old tree is a very happy camper this year, bearing a nice crop.

    CastleMaster

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  • 18 years ago

    Castlemaster, was the parent tree in a pot as well or in the ground? Turns out im down the road from you in Garner.

  • 18 years ago

    Good to hear from you arigato. The parent tree has been in the ground for the last three winters. Shoot me an email. castlemaster at solarcastle dot com

  • 18 years ago

    Castlemaster you have mail.

  • 18 years ago

    Have not received anything arigato, please try again or leave your email.

  • 18 years ago

    Castle,
    just sent you an email. Lets see if you got it this time. I didnt get the first one returned to me at all.

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