Hi Madelaine I have the same problem but I did not prune as trees were only one yr old. I grow most in pots and one in ground, Being the novice that I am I figured more is better(wrong) On some varieties the growth and suckers overwhelmed but I did not cut as they all had fruit on them(again me being greedy) The one I put in ground was a small 2 trunk tree maybe 30 inches tall it sent up suckers to 6 ft and now is bush form with 10 trunks, Others I have in pots i covered screen patio are close to top which is about 9-10 ft again I did not prune as they have fruit on still and I still have 3-4 months of warm weather.
I found this post by AL to be very interesting and maybe he will chime in I hope. He explains fertilizer and how and when to apply so that you don't get that gnarly growth and closer bud spacing. I have to read it a couple of times as Al really takes the extra step to exactly explain the how and whys. Sorry for such a long post but here is the post about 3/4 down as leon asks some good questions
Here is what I found very informative
Posted by tapla z5b-6a MI (My Page) on Sun, Aug 29, 10 at 16:52

A lot of people think it's best to fertilize your containerized trees when growth first appears - period. Sometimes it's a good idea - sometimes it's not, and whether or not it IS a good idea revolves around how you want the tree to respond. First, whether you do or don't fertilize at the onset of growth has little to do with fruit yields and more to do with vegetative growth.
The first thing you want to ask is 'Do I want my tree to grow bigger - how fast?' If you want it to grow like mad - then fertilize early. If you have a tree you've already been pruning back, you might wish to wait to fertilize..

Your tree will have lots of stored energy to push the spring flush of growth. The spring 'flush' is simply the tree putting it's first leaves on. It will use it's energy to push that growth rapidly, then slow down and take a breather. After the new growth has begun to mature, the foliage will start returning energy to the tree (young leaves are net users of energy until they are about 75% mature). The primary use of that energy, until around the summer solstice, will be to extend branches and grow new leaves. If you fertilize just enough to keep foliage green during that period, the tree will extend minimally, and leaves will be smaller/more numerous (a function of shorter internodes). Maximum doses of fertilizer during this period will promote rank, coarse growth.

After the summer solstice, as night length starts increasing, chemical messengers tell the tree to start STORING photosynthate in prep for the upcoming dormancy, so the tree 'shifts focus' from shoots and leaves to fattening up (literally - the tree lays down layers of cells in the cambium that are rich in carbohydrates, which causes thickening of woody parts) for the winter. So AFTER the summer solstice, you can max out the fertilizer applications w/o all the rank growth that heavy spring fertilizing brings.

It's just another way to help you manage your tree's energy. The concept of energy management is particularly important in bonsai, but much of the advice I offer across the board, and particularly the timing of certain things (like repotting and pruning), is based on the energy flow/growth cycle of the plant & how best to manage it.

Viv - Containerized trees have optimum growing temperatures usually from 70-85F). Tolerable upper limits depend on factors like heat duration, highest temperature exposed to, water content of tissues/tissue age, and the ability of the tree to cope.

Not only do we need to deal with the fact that root function/metabolism diminishes rapidly as temperatures rise through the 90* mark, we need to consider that N is physiologically demanding, and can damage trees under large heat loads. The way trees normally process N requires the use of stored reserves. If the tree isn't making food (photosynthate) due to high temperatures and rapid transpiration, fertilizers with N should be withheld to avoid depletion of reserves. High fertility also makes it more difficult for the plant to remain hydrated.

Al

Here is the whole Post

that is a good article thank you. My tree is 25 years old and we scalped it last winter. I did NOT fertilize it this year or last year.

Hi Madelaine.
I like the expression "scalped" brings back fond memories when dad took me to italian barber he grew up with in Italy what seemed like back then every 2 weeks to get scalped !
I had to sit on phone books in chair .

Ok onto figs.
You ask how do i get this tree back into manageable service - its simple !
Your tree is 25 years old and you scalped it, there is good reason to believe and i could be wrong but being around for 25 seasons it has good root system and pushed this growth out very easily.

But you type this
At first I easily clipped the tops but now they are already 8 or 9 feet tall and there are many, many of them.

What you needed to do was manage the tree but you did not as they are you say 8 plus feet now. Thats ok so now come winter and tree is dormant you shape it by clipping to shape you desire height, width shape etc.
Ok happy with shape now and ready for next season.
Now you watch it bud out and grow then clip after 5th or 6th set of leaves on each branch now if you are in warmer climate you can let branch grow some more sets of leaves then clip if you feel there is enough time to ripen them.
Afterwards where you had clipped in that area you will get more shoots to start growing "Dont let them" clip them off otherwise tree will get back out of hand just like past season. ; ) Keep clipping !
This is how "i" manage the growth habit and get figs to ripen in colder area's and what i do each season. Come winter dormant season if you missed any you simply clip them or unwanted branches that grow inwards or are criss crossing each other.
This is what i do growing in containers .
Martin

Simplified: You had a root system bursting with stored energy, but you cut off all the places the tree was going to send it to, so the tree made new places.

It's best not to let a tree get too out of bounds. Only removing 10-15% of the above-ground mass will help to control the wild suckering. Also, if it had been possible to cut a trench inside of the drip-line, it would have reduced available energy so the tree couldn't sucker. Where the trench would best have been would sort of be a judgment call based on how much of the top you actually removed - the more top cut off, the closer to the trunk the trench.

If you keep cutting off the branches before the leaves mature, the tree will shed roots on it's own & self-balance roots:shoots. You would be forcing the tree to spend energy on the shoots & leaves, but would be cutting them off before they could offer a return on the investment.

Al

Thanks Martin & Al very easy to understand with a root mass that well established to push growth after a severe pruning.
Al can you in lay mans terms explain the trenching procedure and should it best be done when dormant?
Thanks in advance

Martin and I posted only a minute apart, so I'm sure we were both pounding the keys at the same time. I see we're on the same page. ;o)

When I mentioned the trench, it was mostly an illustration to show that if you limit the energy available to the decimated canopy, that you CAN take steps that will significantly and immediately limit suckering and water/basal sprouts. It can be done any time you prune hard, but the cool months are decidedly better because of soil moisture issues.

Now, most people won't want to go rent a Ditch Witch to cut the roots of large trees, but it IS a very workable strategy. Also, for those with smaller trees, this can be accomplished after a hard pruning by severing roots inside the drip line with a spade, which removes a good part of the energy reserves.

I've talked before about this procedure as it applies to transplanting. Several months before lifting the tree, sever half the roots close to the trunk. A few months later, sever the other half. Think of an octagon - sever the NSEW sides in the spring, and the NeNwSeSw sides in early fall for a late fall or early spring lift. OK - I'm OT now - sorry

Al

This is what Al is talking about:

I used a ditch digging spade to sever the roots. Each side was done at two week interval. Use your best judgement as to how big of an area to leave behind. Also, most of the tree's roots will be in the top 8-12"

~james

Thanks To all

wow! that trench doesn't even go down very far. You just used a spade, no fancy electric or gas powered tools?

Thanks. I will prune some more. I will try digging a trench as well.

I took pictures today. My husband looked at James's fig and said, "Look at the size of that fig, then look at ours"
this spring, all we had here were some bare limbs!

Hi Madelaine,
yes its a nice looking tree indeed but in need of pruning the right way. All those branches i see nothing but vegatative growth and it will keep growing like that because you did not cut the prune the ends to stop the vegatatuve growth and put energy to produce figs it keep growing outwards.The ends have to be cut and thruout season keep cutting new shoots that develop from the genral cut area or your right back to where you started.
Also the interior must be cut a lot to bring in sunlight.
You cab revisit my post above and for example even though in container the basic still applies to yours.
Here look at the pictures for ideas often better than words.
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Martin

thanks Martin,
I read this aloud to my husband. I will try to get some pruning done this weekend!

I pruned some, but i'm not done yet. I will send you a picture when I'm done (it got too dark)

Hi Madelaine,
i typed this in my first post.
Thats ok so now come winter and tree is dormant you shape it by clipping to shape you desire height, width shape etc.
Its best to prune when tree goes dormant or right before its buried or covered, it wont kill it though nor will you get any ripe figs this season.
Martin

.... agree w/Martin. Your tree is genetically programmed to up on carbohydrates right now to get it through the winter and as a reserve source of energy that will push the spring flush of growth. The source of that energy is photosynthate produced by the leaves, so , for a stronger tree, it's best to wait until after leaves fall to do any major pruning.

Al

.... to load up on carbohydrates ....

Sorry!

Al

oh no!! I didn't read the last few posts!! but I seriously doubt that I killed the tree.
however, here is a photo of what I did. I think the fig looks better and I won't prune any more ; but I sure pruned the heck out of my grandmother's fig tree:

the next three are of the green fig that I only cut on it a little bit. I will wait until winter to do any more.

Hi Madelaine , good haircut, come time the tree drops its leaves look at it carefully and any branches growing downwards, any growing in towards middle of tree, branches crossing each other and any real thin branches cut them off to the trunk . But wait till tree drops its leaves.
Martin

I promise I will wait. No more cutting. And I'm hoping that even a few of those figs ripen!

Thank you so much for your invaluable advice!!

Martin,

Should Madelaine put tree paint on the large cut tops of the old trunks?

Just wondering, as I have to cut some larger pieces of my Celeste next spring. If there is more surface, should tree paint be put over the cuts when they dry out?

Thanks,

noss

Yes that always a good thing to do that i forgot to mention.
Can be bought at most nursery stores, when cutting limbs off of the street trees i used regular Paint as dad used to use it and it seemed fine , course dad used to paint the gas stove and dryer line threads as well im still around !
To note i did by the prune seal its black sticky stuff with a brush in lid that will last long time for fig sticks. For shoots when i pinch them off less than pencil thick i use a pinch of pots potting soil as it stops the latex that white stuff from dripping.
Thats just me. ; )
Martin