hi razorback and alan,
i had not grown these shrubs until last year. i found this pink form at hd and the white one at a nursery near montgomery. i can't decide which one i like the best but you can't go wrong with either. i supposed i was reluctant to try them because of their temperamental reputation but, so far, so good. the fragrance is wonderful, as alan notes, and the glossy foliage is attractive on its own.
both of these were one-gallons purchased for about the same amount that you listed and each terminal has a flower cluster on it after being planted only one year. these have been blooming for two weeks now and the mid-to-upper 20's temps we had last weekend did not seem to phase them.
they are getting some protection from the canopy of an eastern red cedar, though.
daphne's anyone? daphne's everyone! :-)

Daphne odora can have a long and productive life, if they are happy with their location. I have 4 in the ground, er on the ground, the oldest is 20 years old and the adolescents are about 8 or 9. They were planted on a mound of ground bark and compost, with only a thin cover of the same over the fanned out roots and on a clay slope that permits sharp drainage, much like I plant Rhodies. They are under the canopy of some 50 year old Oak trees. Also have 4 three year old's in pots with sand, grit, compost and ground bark as medium, that I plan to plant as soon as they finish blooming. I'm clearing out some more lawn and am going to try those on a slope under a deciduous Magnolia x soulangiana(Saucer Magnolia).
BTW, be sure to keep the crown of the plant well above soil level. If you cover it, even with mulch, they become very unhappy and the leaves begin to develop necrosis and jaundice and you will have bare branches until death, Often, if you recognige the problem in the early stages and clear away the soil or debris, they will recover.
Best of luck!
Rb

I love my daphnes, and they are doing much better since I started following razorback's advice. Rb definitely knows daphnes.

Was looking up info on Daphne's and wondered what everyone's opinion is of daphnes as a foundation planting. I am concerned because this area has a tendency to remain moister than the other parts as it is a corner where the garage extends past the front of the house forming an "L" The lighting is probably right, but will the roof run off be too much, I mean it isn't soggy just completely level so the moisture doesn't run off. Also how long will it take for a one gallon container to look like a real shrub? I picked up some rather puny ones at Lowes but am questionignif I should return them. I have some helleri hollies there now that just don't do anything for me. They have been there over 3 years and just seem to be growing wider and are still under 2 feet tall.

Don't put them where the moisture doesn't run off right away. They will die, die, die. I have my two in a foundation planting, but it has the fastest runoff in my yard. You want daphne's where the land slopes away from them.

Daphne odora is not a tall shrub. My oldest one(~20 years) is still less thsn 3 ft. tall and about 5 ft. wide. Two other species I have, D. genkwa & D. x burkwoodii(cvs. 'Carol Macke' & 'Brigg's Moonlight') are somewhat taller and will tolerate a more moist location, but I have them in relative dry locations under tree canopies and seldom irrigate them.
The Hollies you have, Ilex crenata 'Helleri" are also dwarf shrubs, 2-3 ft. tall and 3-4 ft. wide. They require sun(or part shade) and a well drained site. Like the Daphne odora, they are also slow growers. If a gutter isn't feasable and the area is relatively small, you might be able to use a water diverter installed near the edge of the roof to eliminate runoff into the planting area. Painted to match the roof color, it becomes almost unnoticable.
Rb

oh, it sounds as if a few of these would be good for the slope in my yard, but the posts above mention being in the shade of other trees..can D's take full sun? And the blooms, sounds like they are early spring bloomers, but then what, they do stay green the rest of the summer? What about fall, do they get twiggy or stay green? Thanks.

They are evergreen. Don't know about the full sun. I am just north of Atlanta, and mine are just finishing their bloom. They have been blooming for the last month. This is the right time of year for it. Daphne's are late winter bloomers.

It can be grown in full sun as well as in partial to full shade. Mine are in summer shade because I don't have a sunny location in the garden for them. Some growers recommend that the soil be kept constantly moist, but well drained. Probably the reason they also proclaim that they are short lived. They bloom better if moisture is limited during the summer months. That's not a trait of this plant alone, as all plants will bloom more profusely if subjected to stress, just don't overdo it. Of course, you should keep the soil moist for new plantings, until they are well established, usually a year or so. I have never fertilized any of my Daphne's, so I can't recommend a regime. They also seem to prefer a slightly acidic soil, mostly in the range of 6-6.8 pH. If you want to propagate them, you will need to take cuttings soon after the bloom cycle. That is about the only option, as they seldom produce fruit(red berries).
Glad to find some interest in this attractive evergreen shrub that can be one of the "bones" in a year-around garden that most of us enjoy in this area. Although much maligned because of their failure to attain a ripe old age, I haven't found that to be true in my experience. I grow thousands of plant species and cultivars and I will accept almost any challange to cultivate a cranky species. Once established, I tend to let them fend for themselves. So far, I haven't been dissapointed by the Daphnes. Of course I have other plant failures, how else would I ever learn anything new about gardening?
Enjoy your Daphnes...all year!
Rb