C. Moschata squashes are suppose to have good bug resistance. These are squashes like Butternuts, flat or cheese type pumpkins like Long Island Cheese and Neck Pumpkins. I still had squash bugs on my butternuts last year, but they didn't damage them. They did get my acorn squash though. The acorn squash was planted next to the butternuts.

Here is a link that might be useful: C. Moschatta

The resistance is to the squash vine borer, not to the squash bug. The butternut group in general is a hard vine squash, that the SVB avoids. There are a number of cultivars in this group that that are flat like a wheel of cheese and are therefore called cheese pumpkins. All of them ripen to some shade of tan, but it may be close to offwhite or as dark as Terra Cotta. They do store pretty well and are generally considered the best flavored of the winter squashes.
One that I grow, Beung Carn
{{gwi:14995}}

Here is a link that might be useful: Tan Cheese

This is what I've come up with so far, trying to learn what I can grow w/o fighting anybody. Hope some usefulness justifies its length. :)

Anecdotally, some local CSA growers state that mexican sour gherkin (Melothria scabra) is disease free and very productive. I have read that online, as well. Eat like cucumber. Smaller fruit, so a little more work for the CSA, but worth it. Trick is to pick ripe, and not too ripe, for good flavor. Also they say it needs to be weeded and babied a bit to get going, then it will take over your fence/trellis happily with great reward and attractiveness.

Black futsu winter squash has no problems for them, they sing its praises.
They say butternut is relatively resistant, but gets bug eaten or rotten at stem, and then don't keep as well(?), I think is what I understood them to say.

I thought zuchetta/trombocino/serpente di sicilia was resistant, but the growers I was talking to said they are super productive for a good stretch, but then succumb like rest.

They use pyrethrine sometimes, and that works. Covering with row cover until flowering also helps with bugs. (see fedco link below)

I grow bottle gourds (Lagenaria siceraria as far as I know) up my fruit trees (fun!) and they do really well, no problems, and relatively productive if I start and plant early enough, like maybe 20 gourds. If I picked them young, maybe they would produce more? Supposedly tasty at younger stages, but I didn't know that before so I can't say. Guess high up a tree isn't for casual summer long picking, anyway. Hmmm. And not all Lagenaria siceraria are edible according to one source, so one should maybe be sure.

All three of those are available (and listed as edible) @ rareseeds.com.

More things @ rareseeds I assume or found to be resistant:
West India Burr Gherkins (Cucumis anguria)
Thai Serpent (Trichosathes anguina)
I grew african horned melon or cucumber, but wasn't really inspired to eat it. It's a fun vine, tho would probably be more productive in long hot seasons.
Luffa (Luffa aegyptiaca) If you forget to eat it young, make a sponge. Can't beat that. I'm going to grow it up my fruit trees like the bottle gourds, betting it is as resistant as they have been for me.

Things rareseeds list as resistant:
Lemon squash summer squash
Cushaw White pumpkin
Phoona Khera cucumber
Thai Kang Kob Pumpkin
Verona, and Sugarless watermelons

At Fedco, do a search on "resistant", get another list.
click on "additional information on Squash Pests" for a little more reading.

another list of cukes rated for resistance to various things: http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell. Â Table.html

I know there's more!
I hope other people write in on their experiences!

Territorial Seed Co. sells Long Island Cheese seed. This squash looks like a sort of flattened, light-colored pumpkin; it has very thick fine-grained meat. I am trying it a second year -- last year we had such a cold wet spring & non-summer here in the Pacific NW that my one plant only matured one squash. Can't comment on how well it stores, because we made it into pies. We had no bugs. Maybe it was too cold for them.

If you don't mind using sprays, spray the squash vines in the afternoon/early evening after the blossoms have closed with a fruit insect spray, such as sevin. Sevin isn't labeled for Squash Vine Borer, but it works quite well. If you get diseases on your squash, you might want to use a general purpose fruit spray instead that has sevin as one of the ingredients. I have known people that wouldn't hesitate to drench an apple tree with sprays every week, but for some reason would never think of spraying their squash, even though squash gets many of the same bugs and diseases.