Here are two options:

1) Post-hole method
2) Containers

I covered my beds with mulch and went into containers on top of the mulch the first year I gave up the beds. I had some problems with the container soil getting too hot in black containers so last year I buried some containers in the beds and then put smaller containers inside them, worked well during the dry fall season but come the rainy spring season sometimes the bunkers would flood occasionally and the plants suffered some. This year I'm using white containers, 3.5 and 5 gallon buckets, I'm going to stick with putting them in my bunkers for now and see how it goes but if I'm not happy with the outcome I'll either go to SWCs or move back above ground but use the white buckets instead of black nursery containers. I've had no nematode problems since making this move. Here's an old post to give you some idea of what I've done.

Tom

Here is something that might help...solarization. Scroll down until you find how to do it.

Here is a link that might be useful: solarization for nematodes

I've read that nematodes thrive in sandy soils. Some studies have shown that mixing alot of compost or organic material into your garden soil will greatly reduce the number of nematodes. I can't confirm this because I mostly used containers for veggies.

I've also read that nematodes only travel a distance of up to 3 feet per growing season. If surrounding garden areas are infected with nematodes, I imagine they could move into your raised bed garden after a year or two.

Like laura mentioned, solarization is helpful but must be done during the hottest months of the year. In Florida, thats July and August. Hope this helps!

Just found this link in my Internet bookmarks and wanted to share..

Here is a link that might be useful: Nematodes: Alternative Controls

I know a little bit about nematodes, emphasise on "little' because I worked many years ago for the USDA on the burrowing nematode program in FL. We also survey for the root knot nematode,which is the one that is likly to infest your veggies. I have recently started trying to grow some of the same things you mention in raised beds because I had little success in containers for many of the reasons mentioned by tomncath. First thing you can do is plant nematode resistant plants. Tomatoes like Better Boy and Celebrity and there are others. Look for the N in the list of resistance. Peppers, I have found only two, Carolina Wonder and Charleston Belle. Hard to find seeds. Eggplants, none that I can find. Some other controls, planting french marigolds around the beds and and in between rows. There are controlled studies that support this. Incorporating chicken manure along with solarization. Again there are controlled studies that support this. Keep a weed free zone about 4 feet around your beds. There are many weeds, such as sedges that are host for the root knot nematode. These are the three things that I am trying in my fall garden. Funny thing, this is the same advice I heard the entomologist that I worked for 50 years ago give out. If anyone wants the links to the studies I found, ask and you shall receive.

good luck john

I too have raised beds. While my crops for the last three seasons have been good I just noticed that one of my eggplants has turned yellow and stopped producing. I pulled out the plant and noticed the root knot. This is only hapening in one bed right now. Here is what I plan to do before planting the fall crops in mid September.

1. Remove all weeds and living plants.
2. Till the soil exposing more of the root level soil to the sun.
3. Prior to planting, add more organic matter to the soil.
4. Hope for the best.

David.

...While my crops for the last three seasons have been good ....I pulled out the plant and noticed the root knot. This is only happening in one bed right now.

I wish you good luck David, that's exactly how long it took them to infest my raised beds, three years....

Tom

The best info I get is that the root knot nematode only moves about three feet per year. If you keep a dead zone around your beds and practice the controls you mention you should be able to reduce the infestation to manageable levels.john

Tom,
I am aware of your situation. Before you went with the container method did you try any techniques to rid your beds of nematodes?

David.

The best info I get is that the root knot nematode only moves about three feet per year. If you keep a dead zone around your beds and practice the controls you mention you should be able to reduce the infestation to manageable levels.john

In my case the nematodes came UP from the bottom of my raised beds. It took just a year and they actually brought their sand with them (they need sand to live).

Now my tomatoes and peppers are in pots, some in-ground and some above. The drain hole protected from invasion of the little buggers.

Hi David,

I Solarized during July, it didn't work. Seems I've read somewhere that because solarizing only gets down to about 4" it is not deep enough to really get to them.

This link clarifies many nematode issues .

Here is a link that might be useful: Managing Nematodes

Thank you everybody for the ideas.
Solarization didn't work for me either. I know people from work who tried all possible chemicals. My raised beds have 1year old soil with manure and they are in the middle of a sandy area. I hate to leave nice beds and go back to containers again....

ana