I planted Barbara Ann last year, and it did fine, but I haven't checked it yet this year. It's a little too early for it so far. Hope it comes back for me!

I have one that I found at Lowes in 2009. It came back OK last year. It should be a good grower,as it's a Sieboldiana-type hosta. It's not back up this year yet,but all my big blues are late risers here. Hope that helps. Phil

Hi,
Barbara Ann was supposed to be a good growing white edge Sieboldiana that didn't melt out or tear. I am having some doubts and frustration. There are many here. They will have to turn 180 before I would recomend replanting.

A very good friend wanted one for her sister. The growth rate came to a hault after the steroids wore off and the edges melted into limp rags.

There may be hope after it acclimates and makes roots in the garden for a few years. It will take stress better.

H. 'Northern Exposure' is close. It has a proven track record, also spectacular w/ maturity. N.E.'s margin is really wide and a deeper blue than B.A.

Hope that helps,
Rick

are you growing in pots in TX???

i lost a lot of blue sieboldiana in pots over winter when i moved ...

they hate soggy potting soil .. and root rot ..

looks like northern halo to me ...

ken

Barbara Ann was new to me last year, but she did well. It's too early for me to know whether she survived, but here's hoping.

I checked the few left-over-from-last-year Barbara Ann's at the nursery when I went to work this morning, all coming up nicely. Forgot to check mine at home tonight but I will in the morning.

Rick said, "The growth rate came to a hault after the steroids wore off and the edges melted into limp rags."

Explain why you mean by the "the steriods wore off", please. I don't think I've heard that before.

bkay

Hi bkay,

Many of our garden plants are propagated by tissue culture. It is good for producing disease free plants. With caution, it all depends on the ethics and morals of the lab. I have seen several tissue culture plants virused/diseased. It will also depend on how clean a grower chooses to operate.

To propagate plants, they are influenced by "steroids" too multiply fast. The effect seems to stay in the plants a few years contributing to good growth. Just part of the t.c. process. When the effect is gone, the plant seems to sit there for some time before it acclimates and realizes it is suppose to grow naturally.

So...when you are able to obtain plants PAST-PAST-PAST there third year, you should really have something that will perform and take off.

Some plants can be ready for the gardner somewhat earlier depending on cultivar and if they have been grown in real soils. The bacteria that builds on the roots from the real soil enables the plant too take up nutrients. Nutrients make the plant grow. Real soils can also be soiless mixes of composted pine bark, peatmoss, rice hulls, seaweed, etc. anything to build bacteria; scientifically called mycrhorrhiza. The p.h. of these soils should also be around, give or take, 6.5 for nutrient uptake and buildup of bacteria (mychorrhiza). The roots are the "heart" of a plant. They need to be healthy and matured far enough to have bacteria (mychorrhiza) build up on the roots. This results in growth.

Adding fertilizer to plants w/o bacteria built up on their roots does little except add salt content to the soil. Fertilizer is primarily made up of salt. That is why compost is so essential, especially in the first years. It builds bacteria (mychorrhiza). Once this is established a plant will grow from the ability to digest nutrients in a effective manor. Adding fertilizer the first year has little benefit for plants that have NOT been grown in bacteria (mychorrhiza) soils.

I have found it best to avoid perennials that have been grown in a mix of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. I call it the black and white soil. Perlite is the little round white balls. I have lost nearly all the perennials and hosta here from this mix. Even if a person breaks up the potting soil w/ the garden soil. The roots never grow out into the existing garden and the soil just creates a buried water bucket that causes rot. The p.h. of the peat used in most of these mixes is so bitter I am not sure if blueberries would grow in it. Blueberries like a p.h. of 5.2., extremely acid. If you have tremendous amounts of compost in your garden, you may be able to get some plants to grow from the black and white soil.

A bit of detail...trying to explain the heart of a plant, the roots, how an ecosystem works in the garden and w/ plants.

Considering a hosta only puts out roots (grows) when the second flush of leaves occur make this extremely important. You have a certain amount of time; a window to get roots from a hosta. It is best to have conditions right for this root developement. Most other plants are continually growing roots throughout the season.

Maybe something to consider when you first see some of the new plant pictures and the drools began. Let the grower get the plants ready first.

Rick

Thanks for taking the time to post that explanation CountryGarden. I learned a lot!

Thanks, it makes sense. I appreciate your time to answer my question.

bkay

Planted Barbara Ann in the ground last year and it is coming up with 9 pips.
As much as I love Northern Exposure and Halo..they will not grow for me. I usually have to kill something 3 times before I give up...but I have tried NE several more than that because I want to grow it so badly!

"I have tried NE several more than that because I want to grow it so badly!"

Apparently, you do.

Sorry, I just can't resist such an opening.

Steve

Hahaha.....cute Steve

And that's exactly what it does......GROWS BADLY!