Steps involved in creating a healthy Iowan lawn?

22 years ago

I bought my first house in February, and I have about 1/2 acre of land. The previous owners didn't care much about the lawn, and I'm wanting to get it looking nice. Are there any good websites with instructions on how to create a good lawn from scratch?

My lawn has bare spots underneath the pine tree shade of my neighbor's property.

http://www.whiteboard.net/~luke/house/backyard_4_10_04.jpg

This is a photo of my back yard (two photos spliced actually)

You can see to the right, the line of pine trees. I will be removing the playhouse and swingset. I hope to get some kind of grass to grow there.

I'm curious what all I need to do to a lawn that has not had any treatment. What type of fertilizing, lime application, yard prep (like thatching, flattening, etc..)

I'm 100% new to all of this. In the process of moving, I have aquired 3 lawn mowers (John Deere 160 rider, Lawnboy 4.5hp, 2 cycle push mower, and a cheapie 4 cycle push mower)

I'm wanting to have the golf course/baseball field lawn.

I'm patient though, so looking for info on how to get to that stage within 2 years.

Thanks,

Luke

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:1001313}}

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Comments (4)

iowa_jade
22 years ago
Your lawn looks better than mine. I have plugged, added compost, and battled creeping charlie, and violets. I kind of like the latter.

I would dig up most of it and plant roses and a large veggie garden. Then one would not have to worry about the grass. I have got my grass mowing time down to about 15 min. It dosen't look too bad out front.

Looks like you have a nice size back yard. Have fun!

Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn web
GardenGirl_IA
22 years ago
Don't expect that golf course the first year out! It takes a few years to build a nice turf. Your local extension office is a great resource.

Start the spring by spreading some fertilizer. Try to time application right before a rainfall, or you will need to water it in. The longer the fertilizer sits above ground, the more N will be lost. You could also broadcast some grass seed with that to get a more lush turf. I don't even rake it in. I have found perennial Rye to be a nice lush grass that holds up well. Make sure it is perennial - not annual...although it will probably have some annual mixed in. A GOOD spin spreader is a wise investment. Don't use any crabgrass preventer yet. Wait to see what you have this summer. If you put down a crab grass preventer, you wont be able to sow new grass in. Use some shade grass seed around the pine trees. Water - Water - Water...turf needs lots of water! If you get that new seed sprouting you will need to water it every day!! Turf will need at least an inch of water a week in the summer.

If you have broadleaves (dandylions, violets, plantain) that need control - fall application is the best. Late September is the best time to spray with 2,4-D (Weed-B-Gone). You could spot spray now, and use a digger if you hate to look at them.

I doubt that you need to use any lime, but you could have a soil test done if you want.

The best quick fix: Nitrogen and Water. I have a "rain train"...it is a sprinkler that looks somewhat like a tractor. You hook it to the hose, lay out the hose where you want to water, and the self propelled rain train follows the hose! Get one!! ( I have seen tham at Wal-Mart in the spring)

On Friday mornings on Iowa Public Radio the "Horticulture Gang" is great to listen to. You can also call in and ask questions of the ISU guru's!!

Good Luck and may the moles stay away from your lawn!
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BelgianRose
22 years ago
Congratulations on the new house, Luke.

ISU has some good publications about lawn management (PM 930, PM 1063, and PM 1072). These are available through your county extension office and they can be downloaded from the ISU extension garden publications site. Here is the address:

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/pubs/ga.htm

Trish
Bettendorf

Here is a link that might be useful: ISU Lawn Management Publications
blacklab
22 years ago
2 ways to have good results: organic and inorganic

I prefer organic so I'll start there.

Since your lawn appears to be in pretty good shape I wouldn't worry about seeding at this time...maybe next year if you think necessary.

I buy 'Sustaine w/iron' fertilizer...Fertilize now.
I also buy 50 lb bags of corn gluten meal (natural weed preventative)...CGM doesn't stop perennial weeds from forming but it does stop most all weeds (those that are 'seed' weeds)...
CGM also prevents crabgrass from germinating...and believe you me you don't want to wait on that...USE CGM IMMEDIATLELY or an inorganic preventer IMMEDIATELY and if using CGM continue using that (another 3 times or so till late summer)...(if inorganic 1 treatment for crabgrass lasts all year).
Lastly, there are several organic grub control products you can easily obtain that you apply once during summer...

So to summarize use organic fertilizer 4 or 5 times from not till fall and use CGM NOW with a total of 3 or so applications until fall and the grub control in summer...

Inorganic: for amazing results and easy to follow directions...Scott's 4 step Program is amazing in all respects.

Just as it sounds: 4 applications...NOW crabgrass and fertilizer (step 1)...Weed control and fertilizer (step 2)...grub control and fertilizer (step3)...fall fertilizer (step4)...
My dad has been using Scotts 4 step for years and his lawn is incredible.

Blacklab