The soil over here is clay but the location of the hydrangeas has ammended soil ub locations where water does not collect. So for me, clay soil has not been a problem.

I would not expect the roots to damage the sidewalk but they may pester you once in a while with iron chlorosis symptoms and force you to amend the soil nearby with something acidic.

Not sure if you need to move it though. If it is getting a lot of sun and the leaves sunscorch then yes. The other symptoms sound like transplant shock and soil moisture issues aggravated by a small root system. Paniculatas, like PeeGee can handle a lot of sun, full sun even, in the northern half of the country. Make sure it is well mulched (3-4" thru the drip line) and try to make sure that the soil is evenly moist (no periods of dry soil followed by moist, followed by dry again, etc).

Sidewalks and walkways are not deep - often not much more than 4". The roots will find their way underneath without issue and as Luis states, not inclined to cause any lifting or other damage. But do keep an eye out for the chlorosis, although I find paniculatas less sensitive to this than other species.

FYI, hydrangeas don't have tap roots - in fact, few plants do. Other than the primary root(s) for anchorage (and even that does penetrate very deeply), the bulk will grow out laterally.

When dealing with clay you have a couple of options - amending as large an area as possible with organic matter to loosen the soil and improve drainage or planting high. A wide but quite shallow planting hole is ideal, with the rootball set slightly above grade. Mound the soil mixed with any amendments you prefer just to the top of the rootball, creating a mini berm.

Planting high is seldom ever an issue, provided it is done with some care. In fact, it is far more preferrable to plant high than it is to plant deeply or even at grade :-)

Hi again, I was .... not happy... to see that underneath what used to be what seemed layers of nice soil heavy thick clay has "popped up)... which is then (my overwatering thinking the burnt leaf tips, dieback was from being too dry)... which could have been, some of the roots are dying back, I'm stuck, It's root flare is high, my options ... a bit later.. are to move it (where?) or pile compost, pine bark fines, etc, around base.. and hope, what does more damage? Obviously don't water so much, but I always read they like porous soil... no wonder it's had more than it's share of issues this year.. I'm trying to save other trees too and a bit.. in pain...what would you do??oh, and there's these fine yellow roots growing into it, I suspect it's from neighbors boxwood seeking out the moisture, soil.. I'd prefer not to lose another tree... ??

Amy

They like well draining soil and evenly moist soil. Water deeply and not often although I suspect in the worst of the summer, you need to change the frequency and amount of water until summer is over. You can insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" to see if the soil is moist; that will -of course- check the top part of the soil and not the clayish area that you describe but it will be a start. Browning of the edges of the leaves during the summer usually indicates the need for more water but it can also signal overwatering so keep an eye on soil moisture by testing it often and maintain 3-4" of mulch as it will minimize the loss of moisture in the top few inches. Try getting one of those green metal barriers used to control the growth of grass and see if it can be used to block the neighbor's roots. If the metal barrier is deep enough to block, I would insert it on your side but close to the dividing line to block these roots. Feel free to prune some of the boxwood roots on your side of the diving line if you want to, as this would be your property (but I would share this problem/solution info with the neighbor so they know... for the sake of maintain good relations... but if you two do not talk much, oh well, then just do it).

She's dead, I'm sad.. I dug her up today in desperation, she had issues, too wet on one side, soil was (WRONGLY) ammended... I should've known.. I was examining her and wondering, her roots were so so so so girdled and messed up, I started root pruning, wondering what could be reasonably let go.. By the time it was over, she had not many roots... and the tree itself had had issues, including what looked like a large canker and so much branch dieback... I'm sad...

Neighbors and I don't talk much.. all their trees come over so much.. getting too frustrated (understatement) to care as much... I can't grow anything

How deep do hydrangeas roots get? I.E.. someday (I don't think I'll try again)... how high could you plant without them getting issues with ... everything...

Has everyone ever experienced such awful root bound, girdled hydrangea? One of few plants I didn't inspect prior to planting, So much of what I love, love, love I can't grow here...

So many of my "neighbors"trees, shrubs, and erosion issues have killed my yard

Amy

Sorry to hear that, Amy. The hydrangea roots should not be "too deep". Many will be surface roots located in the top 4-6" and others may go down 1 foot or so (it just depends how old the shrub is).

Sounds like the plant was stuck for a long time in the pot at the nursery. I have had the same trouble but not with a hydrangea; it was some other type of bush. When I extracted it from the ground, it looked bad all right.

I have lots of clay here but when I dig the hole, I mix in 1/2 or more of compost (or manure), some expanded shale, bone meal and whatever is appropriate/suggested for soils in your area. The shrubs are then planted no higher than 1" above the surrounding soil.

Next time you plant another hydrangea, I suggested amending a lot with compost because of all the things out there, compost is near the top in terms of absorbing water and slowly releasing it. What I would evaluate is (a) how come you found areas where the soil was wet? what caused that? can it be prevented/corrected? (b) make a habit of cutting the roots of all newly planted shrubs to break the circling tendency that they develop in pots. I cut vertical lines about every 2".

Do not let this get you down. Evaluate what went wrong, learn what works for you and try again. You do not even have to try with a hydrangea next. Mums are out for sale so check them out! Ha! Good luck!
Luis

thanks Luis

Yes, the plant was overwintered at nursery meaning goodness knows how long it was there, they grow fast...
i should've known, to wait for new supply. This was smaller and lighter though, newer supply was so much bigger and heavier and more expensive. My stupidity, as it was showing some stress maybe, the person working there who acts as though she's a great friend assured me it would be fine... I was stupid..

THANKS for telling me of the roots, FUTURE... how high to make raised bed... do tree hydrangeas.. basically the same?

Yes, compost- I have and have been "making", using, nothing again until lots and lots more..

Wetness- stupidity, under a foot of nice soil was heavy clay, and too much admendment there.. plus the sidewalk was at bottom of area where hose could leak It will be prevented, don't plant there...

I think i'm too agressive with root pruning (she was exception, her and walking stick).. I don't find just circling tendencies from pots, big roots go up and through the top and kinked and do some amazing contortions, then get strangled by hidden roots..

NO MUMS.. have one, never watered, horrible soil, it survives

THANKS AGAIN