They claim that it is both ways on their advertising. I too have seen it but only in pictures. The shrub was originally designed for cuttings so it is not too tall (3-4' or less), the stems are hard, with very few blooms per stem. Some blooms, on the pictures, were multi-colored (like Harlequin) and (sometimes) slightly different from other nearby blooms. But most pictures seemed to have a good chunk of the plant producing similar blooms. Hard to tell how big the blooms are since these were professionally taken pictures and, if I say that they looked large, it could have been because they got close to the blooms. It is a somewhat new hydrangea; I have not seen it for sale locally or in my frequented hydrangea plant nurseries.

Post pictures and comments if you get one!
:o)

This post was edited by luis_pr on Fri, Oct 25, 13 at 23:35

Curious about this one, too. Only report found on bloom size was Thompson & Morgan saying 4" - 10 cm. Springwood Gardens has a photo of her plant on the linked thread from a couple of years back. Hope she'll chime in on her experience!

Here is a link that might be useful: Photo

I'm a dude. ;)

And yes, it goes through different color phases, including pink, blue, and "marble" tones with hints of green. The tight flower heads with deep cups sets it apart from the rest. Highly recommended as a potted specimen or in a small corner of your garden.

I have not yet overwintered this outside, and wouldn't plan on doing so until it gets bigger. In my garage, it did fine in its 5-gallon pot and is growing back with the handsome compact structure that's been advertised.

In case anyone's interested, the other two Everlasting specimens I bought (Opal and Harmony) *did* overwinter outside. I trimmed out a small amount of lifeless white stems. Not a tremendous amount of dieback, but still too early to tell what's really what.

Hope that helps!

Hey, dude! Thanks for your very helpful feedback & gentle correction. Last year's photos show how well you've grown them & how green your thumb. Did you plant out Opal & Harmony in 2012? What size did you start with for your three Everlastings? Find the smaller plant stature & bloomheads appealing. Thinking they will integrate well into mixed plantings of roses & perennials, something I've never tried with their larger brethren...

Glad to be of help. :)

I (just) bought all three of those Everlastings in Spring 2013, and purposely stuck them in different places to test hardiness (pot, foundation, and outlying north-facing bed). They all started at about 18" at purchase. The Revolution is by far the most compact, staying at about that size. The others grew to about 24" (Opal) and 30" (Harmony). But being first year forced plants, that growth wasn't entirely accurate as they were already budded by May.

Seeing as how the winter was tough on everything, I haven't been able to conclude anything new, as there hasn't yet been green stuff on ANY branches of ANY H. mac, just the first 3" of stem. Even now, things like old deciduous trees are just starting to leaf out, so that tells you how much of a delay things are running on.

But yes, these new plants quickly integrate very well into any landscape. I plan on getting a couple more breeds of these when and where available for a good price. The rest I plan to stick in front of a row of slightly taller shrubs (Annabelle and Nikko) in staggered fashion. The color-changing aspects and long-lasting blooms were 100% as advertised last year on all three.

Just yesterday, I picked up an Amethyst 1.5 gallon for $17 at a local hardware store that has a keen knack for ordering new releases (they also had 2-gallon Bloomstrucks for $19).

Hi I bought two of the Everlasting Hydrangea macrophylla 'Hokomarevo' PPAF in late spring. I love them! The blooms are everlasting as they are just now starting to look yucky. What do I do now? If I cut them will they rebloom? If I do cut them, where on the stem do I cut? I'm afraid if I cut them that they won't bloom again this year :(

If the Spring blooms are regularly getting killed by winter, you can cut the current blooms off or leave them for winter interest. You can cut the petiole string that connects the bloom to the stem. That is called deadheading and should not affect reblooming hydrangeas because they are actually only producing the late Summer blooms from the new growth/stems that began to grow this year.

I have this one too. Blooms only on old stems, not a rebloomer as advertised. It has only one color on it - baby pink. The good: strong stems, does not flop at all, the same blossoms are present all summer till the first frost, it starts blooming in May, so I am very much amazed at how long blossoms last. I keep it in bright shade.

So I think what you're saying is if I cut the Bloom's off right now I'm not going to see any more blooms come for this year?

Depends on where the existing blooms came from. If the blooms all opened from last year's stems then -in theory- it should bloom again late Summer to early Fall... but I am not sure why tikva5's is blooming on old wood only. If the blooms opened from this year's new stems then you are usually done getting more blooms. Usually. Once in a blue moon, some selected mac hydrangeas develop a tiny number of late blooms due to weather factors.

My blooms open only on old wood, nothing on new wood. It did not bloom in late summer last year, and nothing so far. It is nothing like Everlasting summer rebloomer that can put out more and more new stems with more blossoms. Interesting that the blossoms do not wither, they go in May from green to pink to marbled green to green some time in September and then frost happens.