I am going to try a couple of cattle panels this season.

Here is a link that might be useful: Picture of Panels

I'm using bamboo poles from the local kmart,I hope they work out. But my beans are in big pots. I also hope that works out. So far so good. they are getting ready to start climbing.

I'm thinking I'll use twine and make the trellis up the side of my deck...Do you all think I can coax them up a string...

I'm with deanriowa. I'll be trying cattle panels this year, not only for peas and beans, but for cukes also.

I've already installed the panel straight (not arched) for the Sugar Snap peas and the plants are almost to the first crosswire :^) These panels are 16' long and a bit unweildy but once you get the T-posts pounded in, slap the panel against them and use black (UV protected) tie wraps to secure it. I actually had this panel installed in 10 minutes! I wish all garden related tasks only took 10 minutes lol.

The biggest problem with using cattle panels is figuring out how to TRANSPORT THEM HOME from the store. But don't let that stop you. Check with your local SS or TSC and see if they deliver.

I'm anxious to see how well the panels work out this year.

Does the casttle panels come in sheets or rolls? Your arch has given me an idea for the fall garden. I did pick up a roll of concrete wire, not as pretty but cheap enough 6'x 150' (my tomato cages/ cucumber trellis. Tomatos on the inside cukes on the outside. Picked up some netting im using for my beans though.

Mark

P.S. Thanks for the great photo

gardenman101,

Cattle panels come in sheets.

Dean

Ruthie If you look into square foot gardening, you'll find that Mel suggests growing beans on a string.

Last year I had them on scrap trellis board, but it didn't really allow it it climb. This year I'm using fence. Don't know the type, but almost like the cattle panels I see here, just smaller holes. Reading that other post, I like that idea of using it for a small greenhouse.

Crabjoe - you don't need anything horizontal because runners twine upwards with a single, or occasionally, if the rowing tip is damaged, 2 or 3, stem(s). They don't have tendrils. I use 8 foot hazel rods which can be made into a 'teepee' or done as a double row with a ridge pole. Bamboo or any other straight timber will also work well as will string providing it is very well supported top and bottom. The good thing about natural materials is that at the end of a couple of seasons the whole lot can go on the compost heap. In the past I have done a tunnel with long pliable prunings joined at the top with a ridgepole. I would steer clear of anything plastic because it is a nightmare getting the vines off for reuse. (Plus I hate to see plastic in my garden).

Here is a link that might be useful: traditional bean poles

Flora, that's a really interesting link, it gave me a great idea for my peas. Thank you! Now I just need to figure out how many I can run up one stick.

Has anyone tried to connect string to roof gutters and anchor them to the ground?

Dean

I got some pipe brackets and bolted bamboo poles to the side of one of my raised beds. It looks pretty nice and seems to be working well!

I just sprang for a roll of FarmGard Field Fencing. It comes in 39 inch or 47 inch heights. It's galvanized and the wire is quite a heavy gauge (intended for keeping horses or cattle in a large field). The strands of wire are twisted together rather than welded. Cost was less than $150 with tax for 330 running feet of the taller size. More trellis than I need, but maybe I'll think of some other uses for it on our second lot. I could probably still give some to all the local gardeners I can think of.

It's a good alternative to rusty concrete reinforcing wire, I think. Better for gardening than most welded wire because you can stick your hand through the holes between the strands, which look to be at least 6 inches square. Like cattle panels, it is somewhat difficult to get home. It seems to come only in 330 foot rolls which are very heavy - plan on one strong man, another person, a pickup truck and an appliance dolly. It is recommended for use with T-posts. Not real elegant, but I think it will be sturdy. I'm going to try running some vertically between two sets of posts to make an arch. I also got some 8-foot T-posts and will try attaching two tiers of the fencing to it, perhaps allowing the fencing to go a little above the tops of the posts (part of which will be underground). I'll sandwich tomato plants in a row between two rows of fencing.

I got it at Home Depot, but only one of 4 area stores I checked carries it. I think a lot of gardeners would buy it if it came in 100 foot rolls which one person could handle. Welded wire horse fencing with much smaller holes between the strands and smaller-gauge wire is sold in 100-foot rolls for about the same price as 330 feet of the field fencing.

I'll see if I can add a picture with what I just did...might not be the best, but I'm hoping it works. 2 7' steel fence posts...I originally tried 1"x2"x8' board but it wasn't strong enough to even be pounded into the ground, but I did add one between the posts for hold the string a little better. Our other idea was to use the left over fencing that we enclosed our garden with. Excuse the messy garden, it's got a long way to go!

OK I added cords to my pot...pictures are on the original Insuk Wang Kong thread...I grew a gourd on a set up like this last year and it worked beautifully...I didn't even have to coax the beans they were grabbing for my cords right away...I'm so excited about having this bean...This is the second family bean that I have been given to sustain...