Maybe some slug bait or coffee grounds sprinkled around them, but otherwise--sit back, relax and wait for the *show*!

I think you deserve a well-earned rest, now!

janice

P.S. I'd go with the decomposing mulch though--it's wonderful for your soil, and if you don't spread it too deeply,
or too close to your crowns, they will be just fine.

I say, sit down and take a breath and just enjoy looking at them for awhile.

I think you are lacking in organic material...mulch.
I sure don't do any "foot cubed" hole with amended soil....and my hosta leap out of the ground...
Sometimes I think that hosta are wary of too much amendments and accomodations....they're sort of trailer trash in fancy dress....and seem happest in a trashy bed with a lot of leaves....or on the drive way!
If they don't reward you with lovely growth....send them to me and I will abuse them properly!
Linda C

Have a cold drink, and introduce a few worms to your hosta bed if it's not already full of them.

Lainey

The fancy planting hole has fallen on hard times in light of recent research.

You will be happiest with the spacing as time goes away.

Most gardeners do this naturally but an assortment of species improves the growth of all. The University of IL found that the best mix was at least 7 different specie. Companion plants is pleasing to most it is also better for the hosta as well unless the selection causes root problems, pulmonaria, ferns, etc. are good examples of companion plants.

Yes! You should hire me to sit there and watch them grow. :)

Sounds like you've done more than enough. I wish I'd had your sense about the minimum spacing back when I first planted.

A lot of advice is sought and given, I never hear the spacing answer. Everyone says what they've bought or want to buy but no one talks about spacing?????????

I think spacing is an ongoing experiment with a lot of variables such as location, mature size, predicted growth rate........ Personal preference is also a factor. So, IMHO, there are no "hard and fast" rules. I space mine so that they look pleasing at the time of planting, If, in a few years, they look crowded, I simply move and/or divide. I move and divide anytime- spring, summer or fall. Those who don't like to move and divide probably provide plenty of space between their hostas at the time of initial planting.

Wow, great replies! Thanks all. I owe some responses...

I "improved" my soil because I figured that any lush-leaved shade plant needed plenty of nutrients. I had noticed that the soil seemed dry - probably because of the surrounding mature tree roots).

I think it is better to have organic matter in the soil rather than just on top (and I do have a 1/2" of shredded leaves there. I do have a cu yard of bark mulch, though, so I may add that around them. But I've read that slugs love mulch, so I'm not sure. I'm suspecting that slugs do not love dry shredded leaves.

LOL about worms. As I have been doing digging work in other parts of the yard, I have been collecting the worms that flee the disturbance and bringing them to the hosta bed. And shooing the robins away! Incidentally, I think the best way to introduce worms to a new bed is to dig up a patch of soil, place the worms on the top, and then cover them with a pot. It has worked well in other veggie beds.

I certainly have some diversity in the hosta bed. 15 different hostas, 3 kinds of heuchera, about 5 varieties of ferns, and lily-of-the-valley. And I may sneak in a columbine or two. But it is still a hosta garden.

The spacing of the hostas is still the most uncertain part. The best pics I've seen have hostas close enough to have overlapping leaves, and mine sure aren't that close. But I went for specimen and structure in this layout. When I see how large/colorful the hostas really get, I'll know next year where I can add more with contrasting colors and textures. Unless I find something better than June and Paul's Glory, I will be adding more of those, some close to the larger bluish ones.

One reason for maximum spacing was to allow hosta divisions in a year or two. I don't know why, but some hostas seem to invite division and some don't. Some of my hostas come up every year in a single tight crown and I don't dare mess with them.

If I missed replying to any sugestions or questions, I apologize. But it does look like I am generally doing things right with the hostas... I sure glad for that!

Should I add the soaker hose or not?

I think it is better to have organic matter in the soil rather than just on top"

Go to the soil and compost forum and read for landscape gardening rather than veggie gardening. Those with strong feelings will only change with weight of evidence.

My wife loves columbine so we have a lot but it will seed like a weed although you can leave a few for seeds and wack them down later.

Be careful with that LOTV, it'll spread like wildfire, unless that's what you want of course. I have some under a cedar in the front that I've been trying to get rid of for over 5 years and always seem to miss some root hairs, and back they are the next year, or even next month. Columbines are great self seeders, but not nearly as bothersome IMHO as LOTV.

The job you've done sounds pretty thorough, BTW. ENJOY!

I always learn something here! My suggestion is to sit in the lawn chair, put your feet up, and crack open a nice cold one... like the worm idea, too... I didn't know that it's good for the plants to have more variety. My spacing: looks good at the time of planting, moving or dividing if I have to later... living for the moment...

What the researchers learned is that the plants roots intertwined (of course) and plants short on P or N will take it from a plants roots that has an over supply. Trees, shrubs even weeds count toward the total of 7.

Mycorrhizae will populate certain plants and bring P to the that plant in a symbiotic way then other plants near by benefit from P being near that plant.

Below is a long read that may be interesting to those who care about the soil their expensive plants grow in. Hosta collectors are obsessive compulsive given to fits of unreasonable euphoria and unjustified depression which is why Daylily collectors make fun of us. Become as compulsive about the soil as the hosta and you wont have to suffer from fits of anxiety when the sun goes down.

It is not hard to enoculate your soil with Mycorrhizae, get a bit of forest
Mycorrhizae
By Shawn Semones, Ph.D., and Kristi Woods, M.S.

Arborists leave behind perhaps the most visible examples of their work  trees. Whether they have been charged with simply caring for existing specimens or asked to plant and grow new trees, everyone who comes in contact with their work experiences their success, or failure, and is quick to make judgments on whether or not theyÂre "doing a good job." Improving the odds of growing and maintaining healthy trees requires selecting the appropriate plants and ensuring that the trees themselves are rooted in the best foundation possible.
ThatÂs where tiny allies can make a huge difference. Those tiny allies are mycorrhizal fungi. Mycorrhizae are fungi that form symbiotic and mutually beneficial associations in plants (usually with the roots). They help increase establishment and growth, extend the roots surface area, and provide resistance against stress. The presence of mycorrhizae results in a healthier plant.
Benefits
Typically, both the plants and mycorrhizal fungi benefit from their association with each other. This functional give-and-take relationship provides a carbohydrate source for the mycorrhizal fungi, which is what they need to flourish. The plant, in turn, benefits from improved nutrient and water uptake, carbon acquisition, phytohormone production, and resistance to pathogens.
Relationships
Mycorrhizae actually alter the relationship between the treeÂs roots and the soil, increasing the roots ability to absorb phosphorus, a critical nutrient for plant growth and stress physiology.
Mycorrhizae are an integral part of plant physiology and ecology. Mycorrhizae form an association with more than 2,500 different plant species, ranging from primitive plants to more evolutionarily advanced species. The nature of the association depends upon the species of plant and fungus involved as well as the environmental conditions. Forming in 98 percent of all land plants, mycorrhizae are found in a variety of ecosystems and plant communities, including wetlands, deserts, deciduous forests, lowland tropical rainforests, high latitude and elevation plant communities, and prairies. About the only terrestrial settings in which they do not occur are extreme arctic environments.
Classifications
Although mycorrhizae are classified into seven major groups characterized by key morphological features of the root-fungus association, the two most common groups are ectomycorrhizae (colonize outside) and endomycorrhizae (colonize inside). Ectomycorrhizae colonize the outside ofroots and can produce a mushroom or fruiting body above or below ground. Ectomycorrhizae form associations with trees such as pines, birch, oak, walnut, willow and beech. Ectomycorrhizae create a sheath of hyphae (fungal cells), increasing the root surface and volume around the plant root and making it harder for fungal or bacterial diseases to penetrate the plant. With this barrier in place, the plant is less likely to need constant and potentially costly pesticide applications, thereby possibly reducing pesticide use. In addition, plants are more resistant to diseases, both fungal and bacterial, and a variety of pests that seek out less-healthy specimens. Although ectomycorrhizae only form with 10 percent of the worldÂs plants, these plants, primarily trees, are the basis for some of the worldÂs most important industries, including building and construction, furniture manufacturing, and landscaping.
On the other hand, arbuscular mycorrhizae, or endomycorrhizae, colonize inside the root. An endomycorrhizal association is characterized by two structures: vesicles and arbuscules. Vesicles are used for the storage of carbon. Arbuscules are where the nutrient exchange between the fungus and plant actually takes place. Endomycorrhizae form beneficial partnerships with 70% of all plant families, including flowering plants, annuals, grasses, and select trees such as maple, magnolia and dogwoods. Endomycorrhizae are critical to plants commonly used in landscaping.
Increasing the Odds
There are several commercially available endo and ecto mycorrhizal inoculants. These inoculants come in various forms, including dry soluble powders, granular pills, tablets and pre-inoculated soil media. Plants can be inoculated via numerous methods such as soil drenching, liquid injections, granular incorporation and vertical mulching.
Applying a mycorrhizal product to established or newly transplanted plants can result in a wide range of benefits to the plantÂs health, such as increased nutrient uptake, increased resistance to insect pests and diseases, reduced fertilizer use, increased accumulation of phosphorus, and increased transplant survival. So whether itÂs a giant oak guarding a tricky approach shot on a golf course, a beautiful maple shading a jogging path at a local park, or a showpiece ornamental attracting the attention of a passerby, these tiny mycorrhizal allies can perform a mighty function  making the trees look good, and making their caretakers look good as well.
Increased Nutrient Uptake
After the mycorrhizae colonize the roots of a plant, the fungus then grows throughout the surrounding soil and forms an extensive cobweb-like network that explores a larger soil volume than normal roots. These special fungi can increase the ability of the roots to access nutrients in narrow spaces (small areas between soil particles) because they are smaller (1/10 the diameter) compared to roots. The ability of mycorrhizae to enter small areas can increase root absorption of nutrients by sixtyfold in some cases.
Some research has even suggested that plants grown near each other are linked by the same mycorrhizae, which can transfer nutrients between the plants. There is also evidence that mycorrhizal roots live longer than plant roots not colonized by mycorrhizae. This increases the total absorbing capacity of the root over its lifetime. Without question, plant health in low nutrient sites is improved by the presence of mycorrhizae.
Increased Resistance To Insect Pests And Diseases
Ectomycorrhizae form a physical barrier around the plant root, making it harder for fungal or bacterial diseases to penetrate and harm the plant. If overall plant health is increased, the plant is less likely to succumb to diseases (fungal or bacterial) and pests. A dense layer of mycorrhizal cells usually covers ectomycorrhizal roots and effectively increases the surface area of the root. Ectomycorrhizae also have antibiotic properties, which can reduce the ability of a harmful fungal disease to attack a plant.
Reduced Fertilizer Use
Trees and plants with a flourishing mycorrhizal colony are significantly more effective at extracting nutrients from the soil. That increased efficiency means less frequent and less heavy applications of fertilizers, resulting in savings of both money and time.
Mycorrhizae provide faster movement of phosphorus to the roots by changing the root zone, thereby making the roots more able to accept phosphorus and decreasing the amount of phosphorus needed in order for it to diffuse into the root cells. Essentially, mycorrhizae mobilize phosphorus in the soil that was previously unavailable. By stimulating growth, phosphorus helps promote flowering and the maturing of fruit. With the enhanced nutrient uptake, mycorrhizae encourage flowers to grow more quickly and efficiently, extending the growing season or providing fruiting trees with earlier yields. An increased growth rate of the root and shoot means plants grow larger, with healthier root zones.
Increased Transplant Survival
Plants that are colonized by ectomycorrhizae produce larger, more extensive root systems. This highly developed root system greatly reduces drought stress on the plant since it absorbs moisture more effectively. Inoculated plants also produce new root structures called "short roots." The increased surface area provided by the ectomycorrhizae and the improved root system of inoculated plants can result in an increase in total root surface area up to 18 times that of an uninoculated plant.
Shawn Semones is the Research and Development group leader for Novozymes/Roots Plant Care Group. He has been with the group since 1999 when he started as a senior research scientist. Semones has a Ph.D. in biology from Virginia Tech with a major emphasis in plant stress physiology and mycology.
Kristi Woods joined Novozymes/Roots Plant Care Group in 2002 as a research associate. She has a M.S. in biology from Virginia Tech with experience in molecular plant biology and plant physiology.

EO - Interesting, is there a way to tell if you have a mycorrhizal colony existing already? From what I see in the article I suspect that I may have Ectomycorrhizae already in place in my hosta gardens where I've left the native soil and plants rather undisturbed under my large pines.

Fungus is working to colonize new areas all time so if you are just sitting there it may find you but gathering a bit of forest duff and spreading it around isn't a hard thing.