Stop heading back, then thin regrowth to restore naturalistic structure.

This may sound strange to put it this way, but there is not so much an incorrect way or a correct way, but different ways that result in different effects.

You must decide what the outcome is that you are not pleased with and then find out what method of pruning and care will result in the outcome you want.

To say you have pruned it wrong really does not tell us anything. With not enough space, it will not be possible to let the tree achieve its natural shape, so you must learn how to prune to to give that illusion and still be able to keep it healthy.

I have a Bloodgood in the same situation, but I have been pretty successful with it. Mabye you could describe how, when, and the result of your pruning, or post a photo in your thread or the gallery.

MJH

Here is a picture of the tree just after my latest attempt to prune it. Took out many of the bushy clumps that had formed where I had deadheaded limbs. Canopy looks a little too high and I'm not sure what to do about thinning the top without getting it too skimpy. Open to suggestions to make it look better and to try and manage the size in this tight space. Last resort will be too put a true dwarf maple in which is what my landscaper was supposed to have planted according to my plans. Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful:

Well--it is a much older maple than I imagined and actually maybe a little worse. So really your tree has been limbed up and you need to fill in down below a little.

So, you have more space than I expected which means you can let it grow a little. Sometime, or often, you will see small buds along the lower portion of the trunk that has been cleaned up, push leaves. These don't often develop into branches, but small twigs. Just the appearance of a few leaves down low will act as a focal point to draw you away from the clump at the top.

If you can reach the top of the tree, I would start pruning new growth back at the top of the tree, but not the sides. Not a lot, but in late spring and after the summer flush of growth, "pinch" back the new top growth or just barely cut into the old wood. Let the tree grow wider.

Next, now, or if you can't see the branching structure, wait until late winter, thin out the top. If you can imagine how the tree would grow under a forest canopy in low light--prune out any crossing branching in the canopy that is not critial and you prune out any double leaders with a tight crotch angle. Then use your eye to thin....sometimes it is removing alternating side branches along a leader. With such a heavy head on the tree, you will need to work from the inside out. I would elminate some branching that is growing vertically and focus on angular or horizontal branches for interest.

If you are really unsure, a good arborist can open up the inside of the tree to let the air and light through. If you do it yourself, you might try standing under the tree and looking up into it to spot branches you might remove. Even if you can't get new growth on the lower trunk opening up the canopy will do wonders. You might also try an underplanting of the tree with a dissectum or the dwarf you initially wanted, or a grass or iris that would distract. Don't ditch the tree just yet. Maples in their natural habitat will thin out or die out at the bottom with age in many cases, or at least get thin underneath.

MJH

Thanks very much MJH for your advice. Just what I needed to give me some basic guideltines on which way to go. Hopefully over the next few seasons I can work this into a much more attractive tree.

Ouch!!!!!!! take some time off with the pruners. Some regrowth will probably start this fall. I would just let things grow for a few years. Rub off any low buds when they start to brake (emerge). 3-4 ft. downwards.

May I borrow this thread to add a question to you guys. My situation is the opposite to Randy's: I planted a young Crimson Queen this spring (we are in zone 7 just outside of DC). Apparently this tree has been in the nursery for more than a year and they didn't prune off a thin branch from the graft trunk. As a novice I didn't realize this thin and long branch was from the graft base. By now, the tree has grown some but most of the growth was focused on this branch - it's base is now almost 1/3 of that of the main stem! May I cut it off this summer, or should I wait patiently until the fall? If I can cut in summer, which month might be good for our area? I am thinking by late July the tree is probably going to be summer dormant but I don't really know. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!