You should transplant the tree when it is dormant. If you do it now or in the spring the tree will be stressed from the transplant, and may suffer in some way. I am relatively new at this, but know that the tree will react negatively to the transplant while it is with leaf.

From what I've read around the net and in this forum the trees change to their fall colors when either the temperature drops to about 50 degrees for prolonged time and/or there is less daylight as the season progresses.

The tree needs to be at a constant low temperature to stay in dormancy. Another member might have the temps necessary to winter your tree. I do understand that extreme temps can kill branches or the tree itself, so the room sounds reasonable. Another opinion will be appreciated.

If you took care to minimize root disturbance, you could probably pot up now with minimal distress to the plant, but the dissectums are very touchy about being moved between containers while in leaf, you may notice considerable leaf drying at margins.

The plant is now preparing for winter and storing energy in roots and cambium for its upcoming rest and subsequent spring growth push. For that reason, I would wait until spring to change containers. The best time is immediately before budswell and before the plant begins its growth cycle. Read on for other info regarding over-wintering.
Your tree would fare poorly indoors over winter. In addition to the fact your plant will react poorly to indoor cultural conditions (low light/humidity), your tree needs a dormant rest period and some chilling temperatures to insure it grows with good vitality in the coming (next) growth cycle. Temperate trees that are deprived of dormancy and the requisite chill that releases them from dormancy either exhibit very weak growth or enter dormancy at extremely unusual times, sometimes in the middle of summer or even during normal peak growth periods. This is usually fatal for the tree.

The best place to overwinter your tree is in the ground. Leave it in its present container and bury the container to the rim next to a building foundation and mulch to prevent drying. Your tree would prefer to be located on the north side out of sun and wind.

You can also overwinter in an unheated garage, but if you do, the tree will break bud too early. When this occurs, you'll need to move the tree outdoors whenever temperatures are above freezing and back inside when temperatures get near the freezing mark. Allowing the tree to grow in the garage with inadequate light will drain energy and destroy the appearance of the tree (very long internodes & weak, pendulous growth) unless you prune the weak growth off when you move the tree outdoors, but this is a huge waste of the tree's energy reserves.

Al

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE LATEST DATE TO PLANT A JM IS...??

with any tree it depends on the tree you GET..if it is dormant bare root you can plant ANY tree in the ground in the late fall as long as you can dig it ( not frozen)....I leave it to someone else to say when non bare root leafed trees from a warmer zone may be planted I would assume you should "let" them become dormant and plant them out before the ground freezes or wait til next spring and over winter them as Al has so aptly put... David

I have a bloodgood that I want to transplant to a new home we are currently building. I don't know when our present home will sell. Should I root prune the maple now, to prepare it for a container for the winter, or wait to do anything until it loses its leaves and goes dormant? I would wait until spring to transplant but I risk selling the house (such a problem I hope to have!) and losing my chance to take the maple with me. It is in its second year and is about 5-6 feet tall. If I do get it into a container before the ground freezes, I can take it to our new property and bury the container in the ground, mulching it up with leaves, etc., to overwinter there.

You can transplant a maple just about any time, as long as you observe a few simple rules:

1.) Minimize root disturbance. This means digging a substantial root ball and having an equally substatntial pot ready to recieve it. Its much better for the tree to be put in a pot. When digging the tree, don't let the roots dry out for even a minute! Transfer immediately to the pot! If you use burlap to wrap and secure the newly dug root ball (which I suggest, else it is prone to fall apart), be sure to cover it with mulch while its in the pot to keep it from drying out the tree. DO NOT use synthetic burlap!

2.) Keep tree moist, but not soggy, while in the pot. Keep it in the shade to minimize stress.

3.) When you plant the tree, again, minimize root disturbance. Never handle the tree by its trunk - only by the pot. That's the main reason to put it in the pot - to make it easier to handle. Do not drop the root ball or pot into the hole or on the ground while handling it - the shock waves snap off roots in the root ball, and many a tree has died because of this type of rough handling. The way I do it is to prepare the planting hole, then gently put the pot in the hole and position the plant. I then CUT THE POT AWAY using a utility knife and remove all plastic from the hole.

4.) Water well. Check the moisture level every day. Even in winter plants need water, so if you have a dry period or a particularly windy period, you may need to do some hand watering.

5.) Mulch your tree, but keep the mulch at least three inches away from the trunk. Mulch should be several inches deep, and provide for good aeration of the soil (pine bark and pine straw are my favorites).

Hope things go well!

K4

I just potted two japanese maples. i put a large rock in the drainage hole then gravel/sand, then potting soil. i'm afraid that the rock will prevent proper drainage. should i repot without the rock??

For any plant kept in a pot I especially like putting a piece of window screen at the bottom of the pot. Keeps the drainage perfect and keeps the soil in the pot.

marcey - no rock, no gravel/sand. Use the screening as suggested by harwichhelen to cover the drainage hole, then fill with a good quality potting soil. Be sure to use one with heavy texture and fast drainage - bark-based mixes are ideal. Avoid those like MiracleGro or similar fine textured peat mix.

I just re potted 4 two year old Japanese Maples.
They were in 3 quart pots( nursery gallon) & had been in 2"X2"pots to long before they were repotted.
They are in 9 quart pots now, I will baby them until they are over any shock.
I think it is important to get them in a larger container ASAP. I did not use Al recipe(it is great for long time in container plants), because I am going to repot them, next Spring to 15 quart.
By the following Spring I should have my garden design laid out & can put them in the ground.
I hope to plant the big trees/bamboo first, then fill in as they grow with the smaller plants.

Here are some of my potted maples. I repot any time of the year when needed and I can get to it. These are being grown to eventually plant out in the garden.
Mike

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