still none

I stopped planting squash and pumpkins entirely because of the borers. I just couldn't win with them. Vines would be dead by late July.

Maybe I'll try some quick summer squash now if the weird weather killed the borers off temporarily. I was thinking about using fine mesh netting on the squash bushes to see if I could keep the varmints out, but I'd have to remove it to hand pollinate the flowers.

I'm growing my very first pumpkins this year, although some of them are classified as winter squash. I don't really know the difference, but the pictures look enough like pumpkins to me.

Rouge Vif D'etampes
Jarrahdale
Long Island Cheese

Having survived the defoliating caterpillar invasions, I cringe at the thought of squash vine borers.

The seedlings were fine today. One day at a time.

Claire

Killed three in my brother's squash patch in central Mass on June 10.

Yeah, saw my first SVB moth yesterday, no sign of the grubs yet. Hoping the mixed plantings of Nasturtiums and radishes, along with consistent dusting with Diatomcious Earth will weep them away. I hate them.

I have a summer squash plant that is starting to mature, and although I haven't seen any SVB yet, I'm sure they'll be around soon. I am thinking of starting some new summer squash plants for a later yield - is it too late?

There's plenty of time to plant summer sqash.

Ron

Seeing them daily now and actually caught one, small victory but still was in my favor. This year I buried the main growth in the soil and weaved socks under all the low portions of the exposed shoots or vines, whatever they are called. I regularly scrape under each stem with my finger to destroy and potential eggs, haven't actually seen any but just want to stay on the offensive. So far no damage but just to make sure I planted a couple new plants about a week ago in hopes I'll beat their cycle.

I saw one for the first time this season on Mon. Rich, how did you catch it? They seem very wiley for a moth, can sense my presence when I try to sneak up on them and then they fly away fast.

Veilchen, I couldn't agree more they seem to know when your there and usually scoot before you get too close. My capture was pure persistance and slow movement, eventually I was able to slap her off a squash leave after MANY attempts. That's only one of who knows how many other moths out there. Good luck.

Well I just walked out to my garden and my Zucchini was laying flat on the ground. This is my third year in this house and IÂve lost all my squash every year. This year IÂd been spraying liquid sevin on the stems to try to keep them off. But, it rains just about every night in June and they got by. My squash plants are so thick that finding them by eye is impossible.

IÂve looked online for some answers. What I really want to know is, do they enter the stem through the hollow leaf stem and at what part of the life cycle do they kill the squash. And also just why do they kill the whole plant?

I hate these things. They have distroyed my squash crop for the last three years. I finally found out what the problem was. I though that the vines were rotting.

Last year, I wrapped squares of foil around the base of each squash/zuke plant. I had no problems with SVB. They had room to lay eggs but I really believe that the aluminum foil light reflection confused them. Am trying it again this year.

Montyburns, You mentioned DE is a preventative? Have you used it in the past? I think I might give it a try. Also, can you inject stems w/ beneficial nematodes before the SVB come as a preventative? I think I'm also gonna give the foil a try. Can't hurt, right? Anne

I find staggering plantings by 2 weeks always works...first crop will yield at least a few, second or third crop misses the damage entirely.

I feel ANY action taken in the garden against pests is worthwhile. The more we observe what bugs are amonst the plants the more we learn. ( as I learnt flushing cutworms from their burrows) Physically removing pests does work well.
I'll be trying a host of deterrents like DE, BT injections as well as a molasses, bran, BT cake for them.
I've heard success stories regarding Radishes.
Anyone tried Daikon Radishes ? they are so much bigger and may work too.
Homegrown does taste soo much better....

You do realize you just jinxed it, right?

I've seen some this week but I have something that works for me.

An old farmer told me that the moth lays eggs at the base of the plant. Eggs hatch, worms bore in. The way to stop this is to lay garlic at the base of the plants, just a clove or two. (I split mine) The moth hates the oder and will not land to lay the eggs. I've been doing this and I haven't lost a squash plant in years.

So, for about 2 or 3 weeks (starting this past weekend) I do this. I figure after that the cycle is over. Hope it's not to late for some of you top try this. Best info I ever got at a bar for the price of a beer. :)

is it possible to use floating row cover to avoid the moths? How long would I have to leave it in place and would I then miss the chance for pollination? How do they grow these things commercially if they are so difficult?

Honestly, I kept hearing about these things, wondering why my patty pan and zucchini variety squash plants looked so fabulous still. Just the other day (as in yesterday) I took to checking on a saggy plant, realized the entire plant was eaten at the soil level... the weirdest thing is, it's almost like it just vanished. There didn't seem to be this "frass" mess I was supposed to look for. No weird holes in the base, nothing!

Is there something else that eats up the roots of the squash plants? I know it's been a minute since people posted on this thread, but I need help!

I want to see a squash production. Is it bad if I just plant seeds right where the old two squash were?

I'm going ot try the garlic right around the base of the stems. I might even rub garlic right on the base too.

I can't seem to find the life cycle of the vine borer for zone 5 anywhere. Any info will help on it. I want to be as educated as possible. I also thought just putting any fragrant herbs around the plants may help.

TGF,

Here's a fact sheet for home gardners about the squash vine borer. It's from the University of Minnesota, but it should apply here as well. The good thing is that they say a second planting of squash in July will mature after the borers have finished laying their eggs.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Squash Vine Borer Management in Home Gardens

Great link Steve. Thanks.

I have planted Fordhook zucchini and think that it is a little more vigorous and resistant. I have used row cover and I think it can work. I start the seeds in pots and transplant them under cover in mid-May . You have to remove it at some point so that the blossoms can be pollinated (unless you plan to pollinate them yourself.) I then plant a second crop also initially under row cover that will mature after the borers have left. The row cover will not work if there are already eggs in the soil though and since I have planted squash all over my garden I don't know where they are hiding. I had great luck this year, but maybe that is because the borers were scarce. I have tried other deterrents and cures, but they have not worked. Even injected BT into the squash which did have some limited success but seemed a bit extreme. Friends grow Italian squash on vines that is resistant and they think it tastes pretty good although I prefer the taste and texture of zucchini. I have not tried nasturtiums, garlic or radishes, but I will put those on the list. It doesn't seem like a summer garden without zucchini.

My second crops are usually not too productive. Does anyone have any advice on that?