OK, so I guess that the answers to my questions are in the organic lawn care FAQ. Does anyone know where I can get feed like CGM or SBM in the northern Virginia area?

I'm no expert but I'd say your best and most cost effective feeds are SBM and alfalfa pellets. I travel between NoVa and Richmond very often and I've had the best luck finding them at Southern States. They usually keep feeds in the back so you'll have to ask. The Manassas location on Rt 28 always seems to have alfalfa but rarely SBM.

Clay soils have particles that can slide together and form a tight seal so moisture, nutrients, and air have a hard time moving through that soil. Earthworms can help keep your soil loose, along with the rest of the Soil Food Web, provided they have enough food, organic matter, to live and work in your soil. Earthworms will not make a clay soil less clay like.
Taking care of the soil is a good start with growing strong and healthy plants. Sufficient levels of organic matter, 6 to 8 percent, will help do that. So in addition to a good, reliable soil test that helps you understand your soils pH and nutrient levels these simple soil test might be of some help.
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

I am curious how a soil test indicated what type of grass you are growing. Does not seem logical.
Regarding applying lime, be very very careful on the type of lime you apply. Basically there are two types. The most common you will find is Dolomite lime which has a lot of magnesium in it. The other kind is Calcitic lime which does not have much magnesium in it (19:1 ratio or higher of Calcium to Magnesium is good). This can make a huge difference. If your soil test indicates you do not need magnesium then applying more will set your soil back substantially. I am not qualified to interpret a soil test but the Ca/Mg ratio is one of the relationships you need to look at. In most cases calcitic lime should be applied when trying to raise the soil pH. Pennington Fast Acting Lime is one I have used and seen in stores. There are others. Read the labels on the lime.

I use cracked corn, alpha pellets, SBM, etc. They are all good.

Most people think they have clay soils. The only way to know is the jar test. Google Jar Test or wait for Kimmsr to come back and describe it.

The "jar test" Dave refers to is posted abouve.

I did the jar test and I cannot decipher the results. Can you guys help me out?

Are those pebbles in the bottom? A picture of hydrosorted material in a jar is hard to guess, but it appears to be clay alright. With no visivle black OM at the top, I'd be looking at compost ammendments.
Are you familiar with compressing a clump of moist soil in your fist and see if it stays together like a warm chocolate bar or crumbles apart like a cookie?

I see no organic matter, except the green plant material growing on top of the too little soil in the jar. The bottom could be sand with silt on top of that, maybe clay. No matter, however, since what the soil you have needs lots of orgnic matter since it gas none.

Thanks, amels, I'll check out Southern States.

Grassboro, my soil results came back and it says "Crop: LAWN MAINTENANCE - BLUEGRASS, FESCUE (202)." I am not sure if that means my grass is a mixture of bluegrass and fescue or they assumed it. Thanks for the info on magnesium and calcium. My test came back as high in calcium and very high in magnesium. Is there something I can do to lower those levels?

maplerbirch, when I compressed a clump of moist soil it stayed together and when I poked at it, it did not break apart. What does that mean?

Of the 5 point kimmsr posted, it seems as though the solution is more OM. what is the best way to add OM to my lawn? Topdressing with compost, mulch mow grass clippings (though most of my lawn is weeds), adding organic fertilizer?

My bad about the BLUEGRASS, FESCUE bit, that came with the soil test for lawns, etc.
As I mentioned, I am not able too accurately interpret a soil test but the Ca/Mg ratio is an important aspect of it. If you have high Mg then avoid Dolomite Lime like the plague. Too much magnesium makes the soil too tight, like clay soils. Calcitic Lime is what you should use to raise your pH. 90% of the lime you see in garden centers is Dolomite so read the label. There are others that frequent this forum who may be able to give you more advice regarding the soil test.

Top dressing with compost, mulch mowing grass clippings, mowing/shredding large amounts of leaves (very good and free) are all good. Also applying grains such as cracked corn, alpha pellets, SBM, etc. at 20 + lbs. per 1000 sqft as often as monthly will help. This is a long term process but you have to start somewhere and this will go a long way in getting your soil in order.

John, unless you want to till up your yard to get adequate levels of OM into the soil the only way is to topdress. Compost can be used to do that along with grass clippings, mulch mowing instead of picking them up, as long as the depth you lay down is not enough to smother the grass that is growing there. You most likely will need to, the first couple or three years top dress several times a year.

Which lime to use depends on which lime your soil needs and you do need a good reliable soil test to tell you that. Some soils need only Calcitic lime while others need Dolomitic lime. The balance between the soil Calcium and soil Magnesium levels will determine which you need.