I would and I have. The results were invisible if any, but other people who I respect swear by the stuff.

Aren't you supposed to use un-sulphured molasses? I thought the sulfuric acid had a negative effect on the microbes. Unless I have it backwards, and it should be sulphured (sp?) molasses.

Anyone know where the other ingredients come from? (Phosphoric acid, Lecithin, Propionic acid) - and why they're added? I'm assuming vegetable oil is to help it "flow".

Thanks,

Gags

Agree with gags. Its been my understanding for years that unsulphured shows better results under the microscope in teas so I've always assumed the same would be true in soil. I don't think in and of itself that it'll work miracles on sandy soil. I have used feed grade dry molasses in tea and broadcast with good but anecdotal results.

All true as far as I know. Maybe that's why the performance on my yard has been invisible.

I get deer molasses from the feed store for $4.00 per gallon. (I assume this is the final boil, or blackstrap molasses type[?], whether it is unsulphured or not, I have no idea.)

It must be good stuff because my aerated compost teas explode with bacterial growth when I use it.

Also use it mixed in a sprayer and the plants all show some benefit. Lawn gets greener, trees and shrubs get more growth, etc.

I've read it has a decent amount of potassium, iron and calcium.

It's so cheap for me that I've used it for decades. For me, it's good stuff IMHO.

Here's a pretty good article on molasses in the feed industry. (Decent tables of what is in it, etc.)

I assume the molasses I buy is from sugar beets because so much of that crop is grown in my region. It is lower in calcium and phosphorous but higher in potassium and sodium than cane molasses IIRC.

http://rcrec-ona.ifas.ufl.edu/mol.pdf

Also, note ALL molasses has some sulphur in it as part of the plant.