A turf grass that is brown and not growing well with temperatures in the 60's but with a lot of rain may well be trying to grow in a too wet soil. The plants roots lack sufficient air because of a too wet soil. Most all "weeds" have adapted to grow in a wide variety of soils, even water logged as have some of the clovers. Clovers, however, can indicate a soil lacking adequate levels of Nitrogen.
The slow germination of seeds indicates a soil temperature not warm enough, possibly because it is too wet.

Your answer sounds right. How do I get more nitrogen into the soil inexpensively?

Thanks

Try alfalfa meal. It's all I use on my lawn for the N componet.

What to use depends on what is available at the lowest cost. Keep in mind that most of the seed meals today are Genetically Engineered to be either resistant to glyphosates or have had the Bacillus thuringiensis -Kurstaki bacteria attached to its DNA, and those may not be acceptable to organic people.

"How do I get more nitrogen into the soil inexpensively?"

Grow clover and other nitrogen fixers.

My grass is much lusher, greener, and healthier since I started including clover in my overseeding.

For the lower 48, we go by these rules.

Basics of Lawn Care

After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct.

Watering
Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week.

Mowing
Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass.

Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush.

Fertilizing
Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it. Too much is better than too little*.

At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

* This used to read, "Too little is better than too much." Recent test results show that you cannot get too much organic fertilizer unless you bury the grass in it.

Deep and infrequent watering is still the rule. Times and durations will be different for you as it is for every location.

Find the Organic Lawn Care FAQ either on the Internet or in the GW Organic Gardening forum FAQs. That will get you oriented to using grains as a fertilizer. Use whatever you can find cheap locally. It might be reindeer chow.

If the soil is too wet more Nitrogen will not help.
What is the amount of organic matter in your soil? Organic matter can help with drainage but too much will hold too much water in the soil.