Just one opinion but I'd avoid the rabbit feed altogether, even the stuff with alfalfa, unless you're verrrrry familiar with the properties of all the chemicals included.

I'd go with the soybean meal if you want to stay with grain based ferts but there is nothing wrong with cottonseed either. Its a slight acidifier but a one time app isn't going to make any difference.

If you want to time a fert app now and one more roughly around Halloween that'd be fine. In the meantime you'll do at least as much good by mulch mowing as many of the fall leaves into the soil that you can, grass clippings too of course.

If you have grass growing and soil that hasn't been chem bombed for years then you'll have some microbial activity in the soil. You don't need to worry about how much. Feed them and let them do the rest.

I agree with decklap about the rabbit food. What you want is just plain Alfalfa Pellets. Every farm/feed store carries them in 50 or 100lb bags. The ingredients are Dehydrated Alfalfa, or Sun Dried Alfalfa. Either way its plain old Alfalfa, nothing else. Take that bag back and ask for Alfalfa Pellets.

With cracked corn you are going to attract a ton of birds, so be prepared. I would take the crack corn back as well and get corn meal, or wait until your grass it taller before applying.

My lawn needs nitrogen badly, (no, I have not done a soil test) I can tell by looking at it. Plus, it's had nothing for a couple of years.

Your lawn and microbes are starving and need a big meal. The rabbit food and cracked corn would only be a snack. If it was me, I would apply SBM @ 15lbs per 1000sqft, Alfalfa Pellets @ 10lbs per 1000sqft and as many Used Coffee Grounds(Free at Starbucks) as you can get your hands on. Once applied spray Molasses @ 4oz per gallon to cover 1000sqft. Dilute/thin the molasses out with a little warm water and use a hose end dial sprayer to apply. Repeat the above again Nov 1.

You could substitute SBM for Cotton Seed Meal, but be aware that many pesticides are applied to cotton crops and residues tend to remain in the seeds.

One more thing; for the area you are over-seeding you could/should apply some Bone Meal 1-13-0. Bone meal helps to promote an extensive and healthy root systems.

Thank you two for replying. I hadn't signed on here for a couple of days....So, I've already done what you've both advised not to do!. Boy, am I surprised! I have read so much about "bunny food" here, that I assumed everyone was REALLY talking about rabbit food. Dang it. Ok, nothing I can do about that now.
For clarification, I'm only over seeding about 3ooo of the 5000 sq ft yard.
Boy, scoot cat that's alot of grain. No way, can I afford that now. I'll devide it up between Oct. and Nov. I can sure do the molasses now though. It has been getting my own grounds from the 5 pots I made a day. Not much but...
Ok, the feed shop that I went to didn't have the corn meal, which is why I got the cracked. The bone meal...is that from the feed store also? Bet that's high dollar, huh?
Ok, now I have a decent plan. Thank you both. Smile.
Sudzy

You can buy compressed alfalfa pellets (rabbits) and in cubes (horses). Be careful not to buy the kind that has added sugar or molasses. I use thee pellets to make a tea for my orchids and roses. It's inexpensive and makes the plants very happy!

Be careful not to buy the kind that has added sugar or molasses.

What! I take that as a bonus. Sugar and molasses are excellent carbohydrate sources. Molasses is better because is has trace nutrients as well, but both are great for accelerating microbial activity.

For those believing that rabbit food (with or without NaCl) is inferior to pure alfalfa meal, I claim balderdash.

I get bunny 16 from blue seal, the contents are listed on the label. My bag contains;
dehydrated alfalfa meal, wheat middlings, wheat, flour, soybean hulls and meal, molasses some salt and various beneficial nutrients and minerals.

All of these are a great amendment and fertilizer for one's soil. The majority is alfalfa meal, and the remainder used to provide a well rounded nutritional meal that growing (reproducing?) bunnies need.

Many will claim that soybean meal gives you the biggest bang for the buck, as it is high in protein. If you are thinking in terms on NPK and need to be providing the lawn with lots of N2 to keep it green; I agree. In my experience, nothing works better at providing a quick and long lasting greenup like Soybean meal.

With that said, other amendments like alfalfa, corn, sewer sludge, compost, leaves, grass clippings, etc. provide other valuable carbon, fiber, enzyme, amino acid, mineral and vitamin sources for your soil. If you are working on building OM, increasing the microherb and balancing/building the soil, these should be in your repertoire.

Your goal here should be to build the soil and all of the feeds above have a unique role in doing so. Over time an organic lawn feed with a variety of sources and properly maintained (mulching all materials in place, water and mowing properly, etc.) will require less amendments and water to stay green as the soil improves. This is the holy grail of what we are trying to accomplish here.

There is more to life than alfalfa or soybean meal; diversity is the spice of life,

Corn for fungus, alfalfa for root growth, soybean for quick nitrogen, milorganite for iron, CGM for pre-M, milk for red fungus, etc..

Finally, I must address the salt is this is well known to be a bad thing for lawns. All you have to do is look at the first 2-3 feet of lawn that abuts a heavily salted road in New England (or other states with lots of snow) to see the damage that tonÂs of salt plowed into a relatively small area of lawn can do.
In my experience bunny food contains ~1% of salt. At 10 lbs/1000 ft^2, that is about 2 ounces or 12 teaspoons per 1000 ft^2. In a plot 1 ft^2, that is equivalent to ~ 1/100th of a teaspoon. Yes that is a small number and microbes actually require a slightly saline environment.

It is all good!!

hey grey,,,
thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately, my bunny food didn't even have alfalfa. Won't make that mistake again.
One thing, that I must have done good is drop down the cracked corn. Now I have mounds and mounds of worm castings. Never noticed them before, and now you can't miss them. The corn is so close to the mounds, it's obvious that the worms drug them there. Smile. If I cant' find alfalfa meal next time, I'll check for the brand of bunny feed that you mentioned.
Thanks everyone for replying. Sudzy

Your soil may have ample nutrients but if the soil pH is not in the range that turf grasses need, 6.2 to 6.8, those nutrients may not be available to the plants and dumping lots of whatever may not be of any help except to cost you lots of money.
Get a soil test.
How much organic matter is in your soil?
What does your soil feel like?
What does your soil smell like?
How much life do you see in that soil?
How well does that soil drain?