Weed strategies? I just tell myself that God made ALL the plants, not just the ones I like and so I try to tolerate most of them. It's either that or fight weeds non-stop for 9 or 10 months out of the year.

1. LAWN: Our lawn is a lovely mixture of bermuda grass, wildflowers and numerous prairie grasses. I know it is healthier than having a monoculture of only one type of plant, but it doesn't look like those lovely swaths of "green carpet" type lawns you see in the suburbs.
That's OK, I can live with that, but I think sometimes that my DH longs for the "perfect" lawn we used to have on our much smaller city lot in Fort Worth. Because we have humans, dogs, cats, chickens and guineas roaming all around, we stay away from the chemicals as much as possible, and it is hard to have a monoculture lawn without them.

2. LANDSCAPE BEDS: These are the beds of mixed plantings that surround our house and have any combination of trees, shrubs, vines, groundcovers, perennials and annuals. These are the area where I have the most trouble. No matter what I do, including putting down cardboard and newspaper under mulch, the guineas and chickens "dig and scratch" and leave bare spots where weeds pop up. But because they are always on "bug patrol" I don't want to fence them out of these beds. I hand-pull and dig weeds, as needed, and replenish mulch often. I spend (waste) more time here doing this when I'd rather be doing other things (almost any other thing is preferable to weeding). I have noticed as the groundcovers mature and become thicker and more well-established that the weed problems lessen. So, I guess there is hope. And, for the last two years, as I have made new beds I have put down the black landscape fabric with mulch over it. It helps keep weeds out of the new beds until the plantings become a little more established. But, the hens dig and scratch their way through it also, and wherever they tear a hole in it, a new weed is guaranteed to pop up.

3. VEGETABLE BEDS: Within the fenced portion of the main vegetable garden, I have hay and/or straw put down HEAVILY, usually over several sheets of newspaper or cardboard, on every single inch of space, both in the raised beds and in the pathways. This works quite well. I've been much less successful in areas where there's no newspaper or cardboard.

When weeds do pop up I try to pull them immediately, before they get so large they are too hard to pull. And, if I get behind on the weeding, I always make certain to get any weeds out of there before they can set seed. This has helped a lot in decreasing the amount of weeds seen from one year to the next.

The one thing we've done the last year or two that has greatly reduced the number of weeds was to stop roto-tilling the raised beds. Roto-tilling stirs up all sort of weed seeds and the exposure to sunlight makes them sprout. In areas where I've just planted through last year's mulch without tilling, I have had very few weeds. Nowadays we only use the tiller to create new garden beds, but not to "stir up" the soil in the existing ones.

In newly created beds outside the main fenced-in vegetable garden, I put down the black weed-block fabric the first year and mulch heavily. That's the only way I can keep the bermuda grass out. Usually after the second or third year, I remove the black landscape fabric so I can till in all the decomposed mulch on top of it. From that point on, these beds get the cardboard/newspaper/hay/straw treatment.

MAKING NEW BEDS: In areas that I want to turn into gardenspace at a future time, I 'solarize' the area by covering it with clear plastic in the summertime. I use 2 by 4s to hold the plastic down. The sun bakes/roasts/kills everything under that plastic after a few weeks. Then I remove the plastic, rototill the soil & work in some soil amendmentst as needed to improve the soil. Then I wait 2 or 3 or 4 weeks for the stirred-up weed seeds to sprout. Once they've sprouted, the clear plastic goes back on to roast/bake/kill them. Once that has been accomplished, the plastic comes off, newspaper/cardboard goes down covered with hay/straw, etc. and the new bed just sits there until the following spring. A new bed prepared this way in the summer/fall for the following spring will have much fewer weed problems than one that is just rototilled, planted and mulched in the spring.

CORN GLUTEN MEAL AS A PRE-EMERGENT: In areas where we had grass burrs ("stickers")) in our lawn I put out corn gluten meal in the spring as a pre-emergent, and we don't have them this year. I'll probably broadcast it over the whole lawn next year. It seems to work pretty well, and it is organic, which I like.

Dawn

I found the perfect weed strategie. I just call them wild flowers and brag about my wild flower garden.

Mulch put down repeatedly in the same place for years breaks down into a nice layer of organic matter for weeds to grow in. A dilema to say the least. I've seen the new recycled rubber mat mulch and thought Hummmm......

I'm what's known as a "fat" or "phat" gardener, which means I rely to a great extent on the plants themselves as mulch because I don't have a lot of empty space in my beds.
It's all about knowing your soil and your climate, I think, and planting plants that can compete well, too.
I agree that tilling is largely unecesary unless you are planting a new bed. And I've gotten by without a tiller by doubling digging new beds in the fall and shoveling in lots of organic matter as I go. I sometimes will use any left over leaves and grass clippings on top, just for good measure, if I have plenty.
The frost and worms help distribute the organic matter during the winter and the beds just need a little leveling in the spring.
I compost my mostly clay soil around the emerging perennials in the fall and spring and don't disturb the soil in the beds at all unless I'm planting.
I've learned over the years that it works best for me to leave seed plants up for the birds (cone flowers and black eyed Susies, mainly) but remove the rest. Some plants I mulch heavily over the winter, like the crazy brug in the microclimate, the cannas exposed to north winds, and the hydrangeas, because their roots are so close to the surface.
I use whatever works best, usually that's mowed dry grass and leaves (the heck with raking and bagging, I pick up all the doggie do and then either mow it all up or use the leaf sucker/shredder) or cedar mulch. I try not to use too thick layers of the leaf and grass mulch as it can form a mat that water won't penetrate. The bamboo really likes green grass clippings laid on in thin layers during the summer.
But as for the rest, I don't mulch in the winter. I think too much mulch can help bad bugs survive the winter and create a fungus problem come spring. So, in the spring, I remove any mulch that hasn't deteriorated over the winter and leave it off until the soil has thoroughly warmed. That gives birds and beneficial bugs a chance to do their thing when the bugs hatch.
Then I mulch a little for water retention in the heat of summer.
I also have a mole that helps arreate the soil. Lucky me!
As for weeds, I just don't have many other than four o'clocks, trumpet vine, a little devil's claw, and morning glories that reseed. Once in a while a squirrel will plant a tree for me, or elm seeds will sprout, but other than that, the plants take care of what the composting and mulch doesn't.