whats the point if you cant get the whole tree .... would you consider a professional application????

and is the tree really worth the cost??? hard to tell since you dont know what it is ....

if it were my health.. from aerial application of numerous chemicals.. versus an unknown tree... i would cut it down and plant something that is not prone .. and a tree that would make my toes curl every time i looked at it ... and make me remember its name ...

good luck

ken

Just because you can't ID the tree doesn't mean it's worthless. I'm sure there is something about it that warms your heart or you wouldn't be going to such lengths to save it.

So my first question is this. Do you have a positive ID that you have scale?

If so, I would contact a tree specialist/expert and have them spray with dormant oil. That is of course if the tree is still in dormancy. I see that you are in zone 5 so the tree is probably still dormant. Look in the phone book under trees. They might be able to ID the tree for you although it is easier to identify when in leaf. Talk to them and ask their advice.

I would also suggest that you take photo's when the tree is in flower and then in leaf. You can post these on the Name That Plant forum. I'm sure someone can help you. If I see your post I might be able to ID it for you.

I am one of those people who shudder at the thought of using chemicals to control plant pests. My first gardening book was 'The Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening'. But, in the end, it is your decision.

It is unlawful to apply a chemical unless a target (scale, caterpillar, dollar weed) or a site (sago palm, oaks, lawns) is listed on the label. The good news is that it is quite easy to ID the target (scale?) and the tree in your case. Indeed you might not need to spray at all if the pest is a scale and it got cold enough this last winter but I am guessing. The reward of having a healthy, well-grown tree does require some work........sometimes hard but most times interesting. Go for the reward!

I have taken branches of the tree to various garden centers and no one can tell me what kind of tree it is. When it leaves I will take a picture to post. The scale do not go away over the winter, I have been fighting them for five years since we moved here. We also have very small backyards and this is the only tree. I really do not want to cut it down and start over. I guesss I will just continue to spray with the oil. Last time I used Vlock? oil I believe. The tree is just now starting to leaf. thanks for the input.

OK. So the tree loses its leaves; that starts to narrow the field somewhat. The County Extension Service (there is one near you) can identify the tree by examining the buds on a dormant stem. Give them a call and they will tell you what they need to make an ID. Or you can visit the Library and ask at the Reference Desk for a pictoral key to twig identification of trees. Those guys love a challenge and they will stay with you for the duration.
I group scales into "soft" and "hard". The hard scales have a shell. They do not move and do not fall off the plant even when they are dead. If these are on the tree, pick some off carefully and examine their undersides. If you see grey, black or any color in between, the scale is dead (no problem). If you see pink, the scale is alive (problem). The CES will identify the scale and recommend control measures. The oil sprays control scales in the crawler stage; so now you have to learn up on the life cycle of your problem scale. But you know what? You will be on your way to becoming a credible authority on the subject. This is fun for me; hope it is the same for you.

Ronalawn, you're interpretation of the label restrictions are not exactly correct, if I may kindly correct you. It would be impossible for a label to list EVERY plant that a specific chemical can be applied safely to, but the law epxpects the user to apply the product according the the INTENT of the label. However, labling WILL warn against improper usage (for example) such as food crops (perhaps) or indoor use. A label will also list a number of plants that the product should NOT be used on, for phytotoxic reasons.

big, read the label of your Volke oil carefully. You will find directions for warm season mixing, which you should follow. There are also other horticultural oils that are expressly manufactured for use in warm temperatures.

Big, be sure to post an image of some foliage, as soon as you can. Proper ID of the target plant is important. We'd like to see those scale insects, too!

Rhizo 1,
I do not have to interpret a label.
I have to obey it. And the labelling!
Let me illustrate where I am coming from. The examples are purely to make the point about target sites and target pests.
I went to the Dow AgroSciences site to look for a product to control powdery mildew on crepe myrtles. I looked at many of their fungicides and came up with only one that I think that I could use, considering the label, price and package quantity.
'Quintec' Grapes and Hops are only crops listed.
'Eagle 20 EW' ai myclobutanil, 19.7%. Powdery mildew and crepe myrtle are listed but I seem to remember that it is sold as very many little packages in a keg for about $500.00.
I could not use that much in two lifetimes.
'Systhane WSP' ai myclobutanil, 40%. Lists powdery mildew and crepe myrtles but if I lived in certain counties in NY, I could not use it. I know nothing about package size and price but if these chemicals were my only choices, then here is where I'd start.
You sound like you have a questioning mind as I myself do. I am sure that we both believe that "there is no safe chemical; only safe ways to use chemicals". As I write this I remember the words of a student counsellor. "Do not attempt to prove that you are right; just that you are not wrong". If I knew how, I'd give you a high five from here and we can free up our time to continue enjoying the benefits of this site. Just in case it has not come over, I wish all the you guys out there to know that I really enjoy every minute I spend here.

Yes, those labels can be absolutely cursed in their complexity, sometimes. ESPECIALLY those packed for professional and/or agricultural purposes. I spent quite some time, yesterday, helping a large nursery deal with some labeling issues...we all about pulled our hair out before we solved the problems.

My only reason for the gentle explanation above was to make sure that our original poster understood that as long as HIS product was labeled for the control of scale insects on trees that even if his tree was not on the very abbreviated list mentioned on the label, that he could still use that product.

One thing that none of has mentioned is that some chemicals cannot be used on certain plants because of phytotoxic reactions. Those plants, of course, would be listed on the label. Just one more reason for our original poster to find out what kind of tree he or she has. Many of us have learned THAT lesson the hard way!

ronalawn, I enjoy your post immensely! But, I'm not so sure that I am a follower of your philosophy (safe ways to use chemicals). I used to be, but I've seen too much and know too much and have personally experienced too much, I guess. But I am certainly grateful to know that there are folks like you out there, helping others be careful, correct, and cautious when using chemical products.

At the risk of flogging a dead horse, here goes! "The danger is in the dose".
Common salt is a chemical which we enjoy using at a particular dosage level. Exceed the dose and problems will arise. Apply the concept to any chemical and I am confident that you that you will realize the truth in the original proposition. It is not my original idea (Oh how I wish I were that clever!) but my experience has taught me the wisdom of that statement. However, I do the 'Ole People' an injustice. They preached ad nauseam 'too much of one thing good for nothing'.
And lest we get sidetracked, Bigamie, anything new on the scale problem? Please post something soon. Thanks.