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peppermike_gw

seed starting questions

17 years ago

I'm got to thinking that maybe I'm going about this wrong.

Typically seeds are to be started anywhere from 6-10 weeks before the last expected frost indoors. I think I've been going by by 6-10 weeks before I plan on transplanting them, which is May 25th (Memorial Day). Meaning I've typically been shooting to start my seeds 6-10 weeks before Memorial Day this year being March 16 - April 13. First batch this year I started 3/20/09 sadly I used cheap-o starter mix and it turned to dust quickly very few successful sprouts. Another tray was stared 3/31/09 using high quality starter mix in four days I had my first sprouts and the now those sprouts have plenty of company. I then started another tray 4/4/09 so I expect the first sprouts any day now.

I was thinking I was in Zone 5 but I've looked again and my zone seems to depend on what map you look at. I've shown up as being anywhere from Zone 5A, 5B, and 6. I live in Bremen Indiana, zip code 46506. I'm confused the more I look at it. Though there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference between zone's 5 and 6. Last expected frost dates seem to vary as much as the results for which zone I'm in.

The days to maturity from transplant ranges from 2-3 months so Memorial Day being the last week in May means I'd most likely get my first fruits by mid-late Aug. Which has been fairly true since I've been starting from seed. The first season when I bought from nurseries I was harvesting in mid-late June or early july. Making me think they started them earlier than I have been.

I have a feeling that the variance is based on the date the maps were created.

My questions are:

1. Which zone am I actually in for Bremen, IN 46506?

2. What is my last expected frost date?

3. Does a plants maturity level at transplant effect the days to maturity number? For example Habs have a 90 day maturity date, Super Chili are 75 days if I start my Habs 15 days before I start my super chili. Would they start setting fruit at roughly the same time if I transplant them on the same date being that the Habs are technically 15 days more mature than the super chili?

4. Related to #3 should I factor in the days to maturity into choosing my seed starting dates or focus only on the last frost date and start them 8-10 weeks prior to that date.

Comments (2)

  • 17 years ago

    This may be of some help:

    http://cdo.ncdc.noaa.gov/climatenormals/clim20supp1/states/IN.pdf

    It does not have your town. But, picking somewhere close may be good enough. Hope it helps.

  • 17 years ago

    Peppermike,

    There are some things that are very misleading in this world, and I am convinced that "zones" are one of them. Zones do one thing and one thing only: they tell you how cold it might get in the winter, and some plants are hardier to lower temps than others; this number is used to choose perennial bushes, trees, etc. that won't die if it gets to the low temp in that zone. IE you wouldn't plant a palm tree that is hardy to zone 9 in Denver's 5 zone. MOST sites will link your "last frost date" to your hardiness zone, but I don't think this is accurate since I had last frost dates over a month apart when I lived two hours away in the same zone that I'm in now (can you say microclimate?). Ask local gardeners (search gardenweb for someone in your zip code or a neighboring zip code). Also, with all the "global warming" madness, some people think that the zones need to be adjusted. However, we've had nothing but colder and colder, longer and longer (funny, the earth's temperatures have been cooling for 10 years, so it really makes perfect sense) for the last couple of years, so hardiness zones ain't all they're cracked up to be.

    You need to find out when your last frost date is for your area, and can do that by calling a county extension office--they should also be able to tell you if you're in or near a microclimate, which may or may not effect that last frost date. I'm sure you could also find that information on the internet if you just search key words of "last frost" and your zip code--it may take a couple of hits, but you'll get there eventually. The websites will rarely be as specific as to if you have a microclimate (which is why I first suggested calling your county extension office); in my zip code, there are actually three zones, so I really have to hone in on where I am.

    If your peppers were not wintersown, but were sown indoors, then you'll likely want to wait 1-2 weeks after the last frost-free date before setting them out, but you can begin to harden them off before that--don't throw 'em out in the sun, but shade at first, then dappled shade (like under a tree), then more sun, and only for a few hours at first, gradually working up to leaving them outside overnight during those days after the last frost. Indoor-sown peppers are not frost tolerant, so don't push it. If you find that you have planted them out and it's supposed to get below 35 for some freaky reason (will somebody PLEASE ask Al Gore where all this "global warming" is that he promised us???), you can cover them with milk jugs if they're not too big, just make sure the plastic isn't touching any of the leaves. You should also throw an old blanket or something over the row to protect even further--you sure don't want to lose them after all your labors!

    Good luck!

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