Sam,

Prior to doing something as drastic as removing the leaves from a plant is to gather the appropriate information about the issue and then act.
When you remove all the leaves from a growing plant you will stress the plant. Why? With leaves removed the plant will not be able to perform photosynthesis. "Photosynthesis: the process of capturing light energy converting it to chemical energy and storing it by manufacturing sugar (photo = light; syn- = with together; thesis = an arranging)"
http://biology.clc.uc.edu/Courses/bio104/photosyn.htm

Removing leaves then would not help your issue. As it will stop processes which encourage root growth. Phosphate has been used for the encouragement of root growth however new scientific data is beginning to change that thinking. A plant needs needs nitrogen in every aspect of its growth stages and as much calcium as its combined N-P-K intake/uptake. Your plumeria ideally needs a full day of sun, a well draining soilless planting mix,calcium, balanced fertilizer and live beneficial bacteria in the container or surrounding planting area such as mychorizae.

In your situation the plant will immediately begin to use most of its energy to grow the lost leaves enabling photosynthesis to resume. I would apply sea weed extract, humic acid and a balanced liquid /water soluble fertilizer with the addition of calcium (as per package directions) to allow the plant appropriate nutrition for recovering from the stress and to encourage leaf and root growth.

{{gwi:869}}

Jack,

Thanks for your input. I should have made clear that when I said cut off leaves, I didn't cut off all photosynthetic tissue. It still has its leaf claws which should continue to do photosynthesis. I was thinking more along the lines of when you root a cutting, it has no leaves or ability to do photosynthesis, and it makes roots and leaves basically simultaneously. If this works, the claws will open up more and the small leaves will grow, letting my know my plant is still thriving.

We shall see!!

ah, I see. Oh well. I'll consider this to be an experimental practice on two cheap plumerias! Keeping my head up!

"Your plumeria ideally needs a full day of sun, a well draining soilless planting mix,calcium, balanced fertilizer and live beneficial bacteria in the container or surrounding planting area such as mychorizae. "

kimisdad - how do you get beneficial bacteria in a soiless mix? Just curious

Jack is exactly correct in his comments. I think you mixed up cutting off a inflorescence which often uses too much energy needed to form roots and leaves in a rooting plumeria cutting. However you bought already rooted plants that may have come from greenhouse to you and suffered a shock from the change of environment. You may have put it into direct sun which was too much coming from the greenhouse lights. These types of plants need to be properly fed and eased into the sun.
Buzzsaw- you can buy mychorizae in farm supply stores or from garden supply webs. It is mixed with water and added to the plant. You can also buy a number of fertilizers with it included (ie. Dr. Earth).
Jack- How do you deliver your calcium. I have used calcium nitrate and fish bone meal but I would be interested in how and how often you add calcium. Bill

Bill,

I use Gro Moore Maxi Cal by foliar once a week. In addition, I am feeding with Gro Moore's water soluble Cal Mag which is a calcium nitrate N=15/P=5/K=15 with my fertigation system on every watering. The change this spring and up to now has made the plumeria have more robust foliage with better color, more flowers and superior flower colors and on and on and it doesn't kill the mychorizae with the high phosphates. If you use a high P you will kill all bacteria (good or bad) in the containers and around your in ground plants. You are then throwing your money away using any kind of natural ferts such as bone meal, blood meal, hoof and horn, compost and manures as they are dependent on the natural bacterias for plant assimilation. A plant can only assimilate at max 10% percent of readily available applied phosphate. Also the phosphate ions move very slowly through the media about 1/4 inch per year which leads to a over saturation of P killing the bacteria and your root mass. High middle number ferts simply science wise are totally inappropriate for your plumeria and the environment. All phosphate ferts have been outlawed in several states due to the enormous environment damage that has taken place thanks to Miracle Grow and many others. I will be writing some new articles on the science of fert this winter when I have more time available. This info is just a small preview of what needs to be said in this business. I am now asking the question to the purpatraters of high P ferts, just how much P does a plumeria need to SET BUDS as that is a scientific fact of the only role of P in flowering. Where this BS got started I will never know. LOL.

{{gwi:869}}

Thanks for the info Jack. are you using the Cal Mag as your regular fertilizer this year? Bill

Bill,

I have been seriously thinking about returning to my original growing methods for some time. The longer I am in this business the more I realize the pitfalls of the plumeria status quo lol. All growing operations where I have worked over the years never used a high middle number fert or anything above P=7. So this year I resolved to change back to the true and trusted way all the flower, poinsettia and bedding plant growers have done for years. So I went with Gro More's Cal/Mag 15 5 15. Now I have the best success ever in the 38 years of plumeria growing. As I explained in above post phosphates have their place in the system however not to the extent the masterminds of plumeria preach. It is simply incorrect application of Horticultural Science, Plant Biology and Physiology.

Jack

Hi Jack - my question to you is not on this topic. But it's still plumeria though. Rodney post some fantastic photos from your yard and I noticed shade structure being there. I was wonderfing if you got it locally or was it from out of State company. My husband and I searched on line and the freight shipping alone is a whopping $$$. I am located out in the open hot and windy area of Riverside County and have no shade what so ever to protect my precious plumerias. Any information is greatly appreciated.

Kasie

Hi Kasie,

The company I purchased from has free shipping:

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/products.asp?dept=1037

This was the best deal at the time I purchased. One of the most important items is the Aluminet shade cloth. I use 30% fabric. It works out to be the best investment. It does a better job of UV and heat reflection in summer and best for heat retention in the winter. If you need anything else before you make a purchase just get in touch. Also if you would like just email me and come on over with your husband to check it out. I am very pleased with this product.

Jack

Here is a link that might be useful: Green House Mega Store

Thanks a whole bunch Jack!

Kasie

I know this is a little off-topic but it is still about Plumaria‘s. I have a Plumaria that got red spider mites. I remove the affected leaves and sprayed the remaining leaves with an insecticide. Problem is now there is only four leaves left with three little leaves starting and one of the existing lease now has the infection. I’m not sure if I should remove the remaining leaf that is infected or how many leaves are required to survive. It is a 4 foot tree with three stocks.