I would buy plants in the four inch size if you need a lot of them. You might be able to find them by the flat, but they probably would need to be grown on in pots to get strong enough for your garden soil, which does not look the best. You can take cuttings and propagate your own, but they will not be ready for the garden until the fall. Al

The tenants before hand seems to have weedkilled the hell out of the soil and in doing so, we now have huge bald patches.

===>>> that is quite a leap of logic ... based upon what??? .. dead patches???? have you considered that those areas were covered last year .. but they did not winter over ..

how about they never watered.. and what water they applied to the hill.. was insufficient to maintain even weeds ...

that said.. would you not expect your EARLY SPRING plants.. to fill in vast areas.. during the rest of the growing season.. if you can figure out how to water on a hill???

all i am trying to point out.. is that you are making some wide presumptions.. which may or MAY NOT be correct ..

hills are really tough to water properly and deeply .. good luck with that ... and i would suggest that is the prime issue rather than what you suggested ... [and i will give you props if you are right]

ken

Thanks you guys. The previous tenants told me as much, Ken. Its been 2 years and they wont grow during their seasons.

The question is, HOW to propagate with cuttings?

cashew, lantana roots quite easily from cuttings. The best scenario would be to take several tip cuttings (6 to 8 inches in length) in the morning, after a good rainfall. That will help get the cuttings off to a good start. Keep the cool and moist until you are ready to get to work.

Your propagation medium should be a COARSE, fast draining substance of some kind. I've used 100% perlite as well as a good potting mix combined with lots of perlite. Other people have success with other types of materials...just don't use your outdoor garden soil or a potting mix that is mucky and fine textured.

Plastic cell pack inserts and trays are perfect for the job of holding new cuttings. You might have some of them laying around. If you want to reuse them, just wash them carefully and dip them in a 10% bleach solution...allow to dry off in the sunlight. Fill the cells with your propagation medium, water it very well...then get ready to prepare the cuttings.

Remove ALL flowers and flower buds. Cut each stem to around 6 inches or so...making the cut just under a node. Remove all but the top two or three leaves from the cuttings. At this point you might want to take your new cuttings and wash them carefully but thoroughly in some cool running water. Lantana can be a magnet for spider mites and a few other pests.

Using a sharpened tool (I use a pencil or Phillips screw driver) pre-drill a hole in each cell unit...insert the cuttings. When all of the cells are filled, water again (gently) in order to make the medium fill the hole around the cuttings. Do NOT use your fingers to tamp the soil...ever. That act compacts the medium and destroys the large pore spaces filled with essential air.

Place the tray in a warm location, where the cuttings can obtain good light but no direct sun or wind. Many people cover their cuttings with plastic in order to keep the environment humid, but I don't. I've taught others to put some pencils or bamboo skewers, etc. along all four edges of the flat so that you can float some clear plastic wrap on top to create sort of a mini-greenhouse. It needs to be tall enough that it doesn't come into contact with the leaves, though.

The medium should be kept moist but never soggy. You will need to be very careful when watering so that you don't dislodge the cuttings and break off any newly formed root hairs. It you use straight perlite, you'll need to water fairly often....less so with other materials.

No peeking, either. Lantana cuttings usually are usually well rooted in somewhere around 6 weeks or less. Be sure to remove the plastic, if you used it. Begin watering your new plants as they require it and start on a diluted soluble fertilizer routine. Introduce the plants slowly to the outside environment, so in a couple of weeks they can sit in the full sun and wind all day. Allow them to remain in the cell packs until the roots have filled it nicely, then repot into...

regardless of history ..

do you have any expereience.. with gardening on a 45 degree angle ..

water is going to be the prime issue ... which includes proper mulching.. not only for water issues contained therein.. but also for WEED SUPPRESSION... [how will you get water.. 6 inches into the soil.. where the plants roots are.. before it and your soil.. run off down the road in the gutter .... and will your area allow you to run the rainbird for the 6 or 8 hours to wet the soil that well .. etc ]

thats all i am trying to say ...

GOOD LUCK WITH IT ALL!!!!!

ken

Thanks everyone! (and especially you, Rhizo_1)

You're welcome. DO give some thought to what Ken was saying. It can be very challenging to get plants to grow on a steep slope such as yours. Anything planted at the bottom of the slope will do great, though! ;-)

I would just layer the present growth aiming the branches toward the bald spots in addition to following Rhizo's rooting technique for potted extras to have on hand when needed.