If I knew which maple I could give specific notes But will give a gineral format.... Take cuttings of firm new growth apply 0.1% to 2.0% IBA (Rooting hormone) stick in well drained soil & mist takes 3-8 weeks to root
May also graft any maple with very good results...

If you toss some seeds in a place (flower bed, sidewalk crack, etc) that you DON'T want them to grow, you will have a bumper crop. ;o)
(Sorry, I know it's a smart aleck answer but I couldn't help it!)

I think Brent Walston referred to it as " small leaf small seed " - its a large Japanese Maple, but has much smaller foliage. The leaves are about the size of a quarter, but the tree stands 25+ feet tall ~ I took seeds last year, with successful germination, but something ate them in the spring - I was wondering if I could take a cutting and use rooting hormone to get it going , or if I have to use the old seed method where clonning is not guaranteed ... any help would be great ~ Thanks Tom

Japanese Maple is notoriously difficult to propogate from cuttings. With intermittent mist the % isn't terribly high I don't think. Your best bet will be seeds. Just protect them more/better/longer this fall. Try different batches in different areas of the yard or something.

Good luck,
WF

if I did take cuttings - I know there will be a low (if any)"strike" rate ... quick question, how long can I wait before I have to add the rooting powder ? I mean can take the cutting in the morning one day - wait 8 hrs. then do it ? Or would I have to do it quicker ? Also, should I strip off all leaves and create a "greenhouse" environment ? Maybe wrap in moist burlap or something ? ~ Tom
ps. on the other side, I'm guesing seeds may be my only option ...

So, there is a Maple that you like? After reading what all of you have said, it sounds like it's a Japanese Maple. But, one with a leaf the size of a quarter. That's smaller than any I have ever seen. So, maybe it's something else. But, if it is a Japanese Maple, I have your answer.

You like this Maple because of what it looks like, right? If you grow seeds from it, you may not get what you think you should. Let me explain. Japanese Maples that are sold in nurseries or even Lowe's or Home Depot are grafted or budded. What you see in that tree that you like is a cutting put onto a rootstock that was allowed to grow and become the tree that the rootstock should have been. If you want a tree like the one you saw, you should graft a bud on a seedling rootstock.

The reason seeds most likely will not produce the look you are after is because the tree you saw is most likely a mutant. A cultivar. In order to keep that look, it has to be vegetatively propagated. Seeds will give a variety of looks.

To do the propagation:

First, grow out some seeds for one year. They should be the same species as the tree that you like.

Second, in the fall of that first year (the seedling is alomst a year old), graft on or put a bud on the seedling. This bud must be from the tree that you like. It is best to use a bud from a branch that is growing upwards. If you use a bud from a lateral branch, you may run into problems with the bud wanting to grow horizontally instead of vertically. Ok, so, put that bud on the seedling early enough in the fall that the bark will slip when you cut into it. In fact, if you decide to do this, let me know, I'll give you more info about it then. I'll just keep this basic for now. Ok, let this bud and seedling alone over winter.

Third, in the spring (the beginning of your second year) cut off the origional seedling's growth just above the bud that you put on. This will get that bud to become the terminal growth for the tree.

Fourth, let it grow. It's a long process. But, it's worth it. If you do it right, you get what you are looking for.

Good luck. Let me know if you want more information on this.
eric

Thanks Eric - that website was awesome .... I've got some "root-stock" maples I could use ... I think I'm going to give it a whirl .... Is the winter better for the grafting method ? ~ Tom

I don't think the winter will work. There is an important factor that the winter will prevent. The tree has something called a vascular cambium. This can get technical. I'll try to keep it simple. I don't know how much you do know about plant stucture. So, the vascular cambium is the 'widening' growing point of the tree. If you cut a tree down, you will see rings. Look at the outside ring. First, you see bark. Second, you see the wood (the rings). Between the bark and the wood is the vascular cambium. Every year the vascular cambium builds a new layer of wood and a new layer of bark. This widens the tree. In some species of trees it becomes evident as the oldest bark breaks or peels off.

Ok, I said all of that to say this. When you graft or bud, you need to have the cambium from the rootstock line up as much as possible with the cambium of the scion (the bud or stem to be grafted on). These two will fuse together and create a vascular 'bridge.' Imagine it like a water pipe that carries water to your home. If the two pipes are lined up, you get water.

The reason that the winter is bad is the bark is not slipping. As the tree begins to go dormant for the winter, it stops growing. A side effect of this is the cambium gets dry and hard. It does not get wet and soft again until the spring.

To put a bud on a rootstock, a good way to do it is called a T-Bud. This is where you cut a 'T' into the rootstock and slip a bud into it. Seal it up. But, early fall is a good time for this because the bark is wet and slips. Now, I'm not sure how New Jersey is right now. We are already in winter here in Northern Utah. I just imagined that you were getting there as well. You can try it. Put a cut into the bark of the rootstock and peel back the bark and cambium. Cut all the way until you get to the lighter colored hardwood. I think you will be able to tell if it's wet or not. You need it wet so your bud doesn't dry out.

You told me that you were going to send a picture. If you are, I imagine that there are still leaves on this tree. If so, your bark should still be wet.