This group of sages does not like being cut flush to the ground. There are few nodes for resprouting at the base, unless the lower stems have layered themselves. Blackened old leaves and stems and tip growth are typical for Salvia officinalis and its kin like interrupta, especially in damp climates.

Make sure you have a reflective surface to the soil around your plant as well as good drainage. High quartz sand and/or mica reflects light on the undersides of the leaves and helps keep out pathogens like mold.

OK, now that I've figured out how to post photos here, I'm going to go wild! haha

One of the only salvias I've killed... interrupta. Kathy N. at Cabrillo told me not to feel bad, as she has killed it too. Any advice on keeping this year's purchase alive? The hummingbirds really like it:

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Salvia interrupta has been a real frustration for me. In the autumn it is a lovely mat of leaves and then, when it seems to be coming through the winter unscathed, the leaves turn black and I have to await new growth. As this growth generally needs the full year to develop before flowering the next year, I end up with no flowers! Only once has it survived the winter without damage and gave me a good display of it's delicious flowers - pic below.

Last winter, three of my four plants did not even bother to survive at all! I'll have to try something different in the future to get them through the winter. Perhaps under a protective cover to keep the wet off the leaves or in a large pot and kept indoors.

Jim

Wonder if your problem may be bacterial???
Art

Art - I believe the problem is simply caused by the wet during winter which then allows mold to take hold and flourish. Richard's recommendation of a reflective under-surface is obviously a good one but I would think it not enough on its own to overcome the effects of our winter wet.

No doubt by lifting the plant's lax stems away from the ground to encourage more airflow would be helpful. I shall experiment.

Jim