I would cover them with a cardboard shield & drench the area to try to dilute that root stimulator, & do that every day until they either perked up or disappeared into the ground.

Root stimulator is too strong, I think, for new transplants.

The easiest way I know to make a shield is to put a tomato cage around the plant, dismantle a large cardboard box, & drape it over the cage so that the plant has shelter from the top & 2 sides.

In a windy area, secure the box with rocks or bricks.

Best luck.

I've been known to use an old umbrella as a sunshield for a new or transplanted plant.

You could also cut them back if the wilting is too severe. I had to do that with a newly transplanted baptisia.

I agree to a degree about the root stimulator probably being too strong but the term is so broadly used that it could be many different materials. Cutting back is an option and shading to half the sunlight 50% would help short term but be careful as you reaclimate it so it doesn't get sunburned. Look into seaweed for a root stimulator and to help your sages and catmint deal with the trauma of transplanting. Were this dug up and transplanted? Or were they in containers and planted? I use a teaspoon of liquid seaweed per gallon of water for this purpose. Helps to use seaweed for drought tolerance long term as well. Good Luck and keep us posted.

Hi, somewhat related question. . .I just planted some new salvia (May NIght) last week, and 6 of 10 are doing great in our extremely hot/dry weather this week, but a couple that get the most sun are wilting. I'm seeing various advice for wilting salvia - more water and less water! Is the wilting more likely due to too much sun or too much water? I've been watering them all every other day, because the soil seems kind of dry to me.

Alternatively, these are not very deep beds they're in. . . is it possible they aren't happy with 3 or 4 inches of depth?

I'm a beginner!

THanks!

An upsidedown flower pot over new transplants is the most helpful adjunct. Put a rock on top to keep it from blowing away and keep them shaded for 3-4 days. Then take pots off but return from 10 AM to 4 PM.

When transplanting, the root structure needs to be considered. Plants with tap roots like Perovskias will need to have a lot of deep soil taken with them, if that is where the fine roots are. Tap and trunk roots are not very effective at gathering water and minerals from the soil. If you have only 6 to 12 inch sections of these rhick roots, there will be a few fine roots around the base of the plant, but not enough to keep the tops if these are kept whole and not pruined back. The foliar leaf surface has to be balanced by an adequate number of fine roots.

If I make a mistake in transplanting, I check to see how many fine hairs are left and prune off the tops accordingly. I put the remainder of the plant in sand, moisten, and keep the plant in the shade. Basically, I am working with a large cutting. After a few days, I might start feeding the plant a soluble plant starter fertilizer. Once growth resumes, I'd check the roots and replant in the ground when the root system is again robust.

I'm in Texas and moved one of my Salvia in mid June (TOO HOT TO BE TRANSPLANTING HERE) , I used a well balanced fertalizer, and thourghly drenched the plant and sheiled it from the sun with a small peice of lattce board where it would get morning sun and light shade in the afternoon, what it had been getting. It wilted REALY BAD for a few days, but it took off and started growing like crazy!!!!

I cut the dead stuff off last week and it is getting new growth on it now..

HOPE YOURS RECOVERS TOO
judy

If I transplant anything this time of year, I cut the top back by at least 1/3 so the already stressed roots don't have as much greenery to support. Then water it daily or even a couple of times a day until it becomes established. I will occasionaly go out and check on the plant before the sun hits it early in the morning and if it is wilted at this time of day, I will prune the top back even more, trying to establish and maintain a balance between roots and foliage.