Design principls will be unchanged regardless of the siting - one still needs to rely on form, texture, line, volume, scale, repetition and balance, etc., to create a satisfactory design irrespective of light conditions. If anything, more emphasis will be placed on foliage texture and form to carry the load, rather than on flowering attributes. Color and color interplay perhaps carry more weight in designing a shade garden than they do in a sun garden as the shade will affect quality and intensity of color and the use of color will impact perceived distances and either emphasize plantings or cause them to recede into the background.

I posted my response to your question on the LD forum as well, Joe. I would be interested in what others might have to say about the design concept I'm calling "three-dimensionality." The effect of having a canopy, sub-canopy, and garden floor in the shade garden as opposed to the more two-dimensional feel of, say, perennial beds in a sun garden with nothing overhead.

From the LD forum post:
"If light,color, and three-dimensionality are considered design elements, then there are special considerations when designing a shade garden, IMO. Colors, shapes, and textures appear differently to the eye in shade. There is more emphasis on the three dimensions in the shade garden, just as there is in the jungle as opposed to the plains.
Type of shade equals quality of light: dappled, patches, shade from high tree canopies, deepest shade from buildings or other walls, morning shade only, afternoon shade only, etc, etc. Shadows assume greater importance and should be observed and recorded. The angle of light becomes more important. The backlit Japanese Maple that IB has shown from time to time is an example of something that could make a shade garden memorable, even if it were only backlit for an hour as the sun went down in the early evening.

Some colors will be intensified in shade. Pastels, whites, creams,and pale blues will appear brighter; may even appear to glow. Bright colors like yellows, oranges, and reds will be less so. As contrasting or clashing colors are softened in shade, they may appear to get along better in the shade.

Textures are greater and deeper because of shadowing. Shapes take on a greater importance when color doesn't dominate. Garden structures, paths, sculptures, stone, water, other non-plant materials may assume a greater importance.

Because there are usually trees in the shade garden, the canopy and sub-canopy have to be considered as well as the garden floor. By contrast, in a cottage garden that is essentially perennial beds, lawn and a small ornamental accent tree or two, the consideration of the three-dimensional aspects of the garden is not as strong. The garden floor is more important visually; its texture can add a lot to the shade garden: mosses, gravels, groundcovers, barks. Vines can climb trees, forming a canopy overhead. Tree trunks form strong vertical planes. Knowing and considering this three-dimensional aspect is important in the design of a shade garden.

People say they understand these differences when designing a shade garden, but the bottom line often seems to be choosing those shade plants that have the most colorful blooms -- in short, trying to have a sun garden in the shade. At least that has often been my experience in trying to design shade gardens for my customers. To design a shade garden well, you have to be able to spend time studying the site and know how to appreciate subtleties. Then pass this way of seeing on to your clients.

On the whole, it may be that you have to study and know your site a lot better when designing a shade garden successfully."

Ginger

Thanks, Ginger. That was very helpful. I do garden work for several clients - mostly just planting, weeding, watering, maintenance, etc. One customer asked me to help her with a quite large bed that has five trees, a few rhodies and not much else. I told her I was not a designer, and really, truly hesitated, but she said she needed help and would I *please* help her out. So we are planning this bed out together.

Your post above has really helped give me some things to consider. I appreciate your input, and thanks to Joe for asking this question!

:)
Dee

Hi, Dee. Good luck with your client's garden! A collaborative effort can be very rewarding. Ken Druse has some excellent books on shade gardening, as does Rick Darke.
Check them out at your local Borders and/or library. Well worth adding to your personal library.
G.

I have a lot of shade and was thinking about trying something like a "zen garden" though I'm not sure officially what that is. Except in my mind, it is sparse with well-spaced plants spaced asymetrically but still balanced, and simple. There would be a whole lot of bare mulch. Would need a focal point or points just like a regular garden. Would have stone and some garden ornaments, at least a lantern, water if you can swing it. Seems like these elements would make it easier to design a shade garden if you didn't have to worry so much about blooms. But it could be quite beautiful and most importantly serene. (As I write this, I'm thinking it probably will be more difficult to design than if you just go for the blooms. Simplicity can really add a level of difficulty, those sparse plants will really count, no hiding mistakes :)