More trellis questions

20 years ago

I have a question that will probably make you real gardeners laugh, but I can't seem to come up with a satisfactory solution on my own - so here goes.

I plan to use Mel's idea for trellises, using 1/2" EMT pipe.

I don't know what EMT stands for, but it's the thin wall pipe that costs #1.97 for 10'. I will probably use jute instead of the nylon netting. Now, I can figure out how to attach the vertical strings to the pipe, BUT how in the world do I attach the side strings so they will stay in place rather than slide down that smooth pipe?? Never having been a Boy Scout, I'm not checked out on my knot-tying skills and have visions of all my horizontal strings just sliding to the bottom when the tomato vines get heavy. As my garden is in my backyard (in a subdivision with a finicky neighbor who thinks if you wanted a garden you should have bought a house in the country), I don't want it to look like a complete disaster. Besides, I don't want my tomatoes on the ground! On page 158 in Mel's new book, it appears that he has used twist ties or zip ties for this purpose. Does that work well or is there a better solution? Also, does the thin-wall pipe bend or is it pretty sturdy? I am using the plastic grow beds from Gardener's Supply and don't want to attach the trellis to the box itself. I figure if I use a 4' piece of 1/2" rebar inside each vertical pipe, that should hold things upright and straight. Any advice or comments? How far should I pound the rebar into the ground?

I also looked at the 90 degree elbows for connecting the upright with the horizontal. Is there a better way to do this? Seems as if I read some people use something with a set screw. Does this work better?

This forum is great, by the way! I haven't had a garden in several years, but decided this year was the time to start again. As I'm getting older and wimpier (I turned into an old lady one day when I wasn't paying attention!), I don't want to wrestle with the tiller again. It's a Troy-Bilt, but it's still work to get it out and till up a garden plot every year! Since I had 3 of Mel's books (1981. 2005, 2006) I thought I would try sq ft. While I've learned the basics from the books, I've learned a wealth of 'how-to' and 'don't-do' from this forum. You're a generous group to share your knowledge so freely. Thanks!

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Comments (2)

gw:holly-2006
20 years ago
Hi there! I'm trying the square foot gardening system too, and it's my first time ever having a garden of my own, so obviously I'm no expert. But I can tell you what I did.

I used the 1/2" EMT pipe too, but I managed to find the curved elbows (looks like large macaroni)at HD. They're great as they just slide on to the pipe.
I also used the 4' rebar and pounded it into the ground about 2 feet deep and like you, I did not want to attach the trellis to my garden box.
I was concerned about the twine or netting would slide off too, so instead I found concrete mesh that comes in 4'x8' sheets sold right beside the rebar in the HD store. I attached the mesh with large zip ties, and they are working just fine. I have a 10' long bed and I found that I only needed 2 sheets of the mesh to cover the length of the trellis, (with overlap) leaving about 1.5 feet from the ground so that I can tend to the plants from behind the bed.(A tip I picked up on this site during my 'lurking' days!)
I also made sure to put in a vertical post at 5', connected with some sort of T-frame electrical junction box for extra support, as by bed is so long.
Geez, I hope this makes sense.
Good luck with your garden!
roln
20 years ago
Hi everyone,

I've used this simple setup for eight years:

I got two six foot steel fence posts and pounded them in the ground on the end of my 4x8', right next to the wood on the "long" sides of the frame. I got some clothes line rope that has a vinyl coating and wire on the inside. I think 50' cost about $3 and it's holding up great after eight years.
Pound the fence posts in the ground about two feet. The steel fence posts have dimples from top to bottom about three inchs apart. I tie a five foot piece of line between the posts at the top....and work my way down with the next line.....about six inche spacing. I hope you get the idea, if not, let me know and I'll take a pic and send it to you.
One reason I like the rope instead of concrete mesh wire or fence wire is.....the space between each line is open from right to left, which allows large leaves to slip thru comfortably. Many years ago when I used the fence wire or wire mesh, the leaves would crumple up from getting caught in the wire.
The first time I used fence posts, I used regular clothes line, which I think is cotton? It stretches and will eventually rot from being outside, etc. The nylon coated line with strong wire inside is still like new and hasn't stretched.
Also, if you use line instead of wire mesh, you can adjust the spacing between the line to suit your specific needs. Last year I grew cantelope and this year I'm growing cucumbers, with less spacing between the lines.
btw, I have two cukes ready to pick! ...and more coming.

Hope I've been of help or give you some ideas.
Roln in Iowa
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