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Watering Question from an engineer

17 years ago

I've grown tomatoes for 10+ years and am stepping it up this year. I've got a 10'x20' garden for tomatoes only. I planted 6 varieties of heirlooms + Ramapo from seed on New Years Eve and they are now 5" tall and ready to go into 1 gal plastic pots. Started 144 seeds, got 96 into 4"pots, gave a bunch away and now have ~40 and will put ~24 in the ground after a little expansion. I do this cause I only get 6 hrs of sun and have found over the years that if I put 2 ft tall plants (with flowers and pea tomatoes) in the ground on April 15th and cover them etc, I will get ripe ones by the 4th of July.

I want to use a soaker hose setup this year. I'm looking for a rule of thumb on how long to keep the hose "on" and for how many days of the week over the life of the plant. I figure the life outside is April-Oct. I do not do a good job of checking the soil every day and am interested in the "ON DEMAND" water from EarthBox-type setups. So here is what I've determined/theorized:

I found some data from some commercial tomatoe studies which seem to suggest a y=x relationship to answer the question: "As time goes on how much more water do I give the plants ?" I know it is more (fruiting, etc) but how much more. Experience has shown me that once I start slacking off / go on vacation or business my plants degrade and really don't recover. Even with this I average est. 40-50 tomatoes per plant. but since it is my hobby I want to take it as far as I can.

So here's my rule of thumb:

1. Determine your Week 1 time and freq (T/F) by trial and error with the goal of keeping 12-16 inches of sub soil at the optimum saturation point (whatever that is) at all times. I think that is what the EarthBox does.

2. For Week 2 goto 2x, Week 3 goto 3x, Week 4 goto 4x, etc until you reach steady state fruit production which for me is ~Week 10. Then keep it at that level (or sightly lower) until the end.

The commercial data supports this but does it make sense that effectively the tomatoe plant uses 10x the water at peak than what is used when first put in the ground.

Of course, local conditions of sun, rain, etc affect the averages.

Comments (9)

  • 17 years ago

    You are overengineering.

    Water needs depend first on how much rainfall occurs.

    A large healthy plant needs 5 gallons of water per day during the middle of the summer.

    The simplest way to solve your problem is to put a timer on your soaker hose and adjust it to 15 minutes per day for the first 3 weeks the plants are in the ground, 30 minutes per day for weeks 4 to 6, 60 minutes per day for weeks 7 and up.

    Some soaker hoses weep more water than others.

    Water sensors are available that detect the amount of moisture in the subsoil and can activate a timer that turns on the water. If you are into gadgets, get a water sensor, an electric water valve and a relay for 110v ac. Hook it up so the water sensor activates the relay which turns on the water valve. With a bit of tweaking and careful positioning of the sensor, you can automate your water supply.

    DarJones

  • 17 years ago

    I aint no engineer , but the tools I use is a finger and visual perception..depends on the type of soil...sand and loamy soil don't retain water very well, unless heavily mulched (don't we all do that)...dark clay does get soaked, and can choke a plant because it has little viscosity when damp..trick is when it looks dry on top, check 2 inches down.
    I grow in dark clay, some may say mud, but it works for me.
    I usually let the plants tell me when they need water, and when they do I use seeper hoses, those flat canvas hoses, and let them run fer about 30 min..and judge the run off.

  • 17 years ago

    I just keep the soil constantly moist not letting more than the top 1.5" dry out. I use a seltzer bottle with the bottom cot of and a tiny hole punched in the bottom to water.

  • 17 years ago

    I use a $10 - $12 water/ph/light meter that you can get at any hardware/garden store...you just stick it down to root depth and it will tell you how wet the soil is...my goal is to keep the soil at a consistent moist level using 1/4" drip irrigation tubing...

    Go to the url I've copied here...they have everything for drip irrigation, including how to calculate your watering needs...

    Here is a link that might be useful: Dripworks

  • 17 years ago

    Totally agree with your final sentence. Watch the weather and look at your plants. I even look at the weather forecast because I can almost predict that if I water before a few rainy/overcast days I will get cracking fruit and possibly onset of diseases.

    Much also depends on your nitrogen fertility. Higher N will always be metabolized by the plants creating a much larger plant size than normal. With a lot of lush new growth there is more plant transpiration going on on hot days. You then need to keep the plant from being stressed because of the monster that you created.

  • 17 years ago

    I grew ramapos on a drip system last year (zone 9). It gets 110 degrees in the summer. I used 1/4 gallon per hour drip emmiters for soil that is slightly sandy to loamy. I put the water on an automatic timer set for 2 times a week, 4 hours each watering cycle. My first tomatoes had blossom end rot because i did not water enough. After that I set my timer to 3 times per week at 4 hours each cycle. That was too much water as the tomatoes had vertical cracks where they connect to the skin. I pretty much played with the water cycle the rest of the summer and finally got it right. It seemed that the right cycle depended on the outside air temp. That changed daily. Good luck.

  • 17 years ago

    Other considerations:

    The soaker hose will leak differently as time passes. Over the course of just one season, the hose will degrade more quickly in some places (like places that get jiggled or that bend) and that can lead to more leakage there, while other parts seem to clog themselves up, so you end up, over time, with a less even water distribution. That's not bad -- just something to consider when making calculations. One simple calculation won't get you through a whole season.

    Also, depending on how you have the hose buried, it can end up spraying the underside of your plants with water from holes that develop. If you see that happening, cover it up at that spot with some compost or leaves.

  • 17 years ago

    Hey fusion power:

    I think your recommendation comes close to the data. You are doubling every 3 weeks which is similar to adding 1x every week.

    The key will be to determine the first "x". I'm going to use a meter suggested by someone here.

    Do you really think that the peak useage of a single plant is 5 gal per day ? That seems extremely high and I don't think that much water can be supplied each day without going nuts.

  • 17 years ago

    Just a thought....my plants often go downhill later in the season, also. Sometimes it is size/water related but sometimes it is fertilizer or/and disease related. I now try to fertilize and mulch well before vacations as well as making watering arrangements. The mulch helps cut down on foliage disease especially when there is heavy rain resulting in soil splashes onto the lower leaves.

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