Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is the best organic control for almost any type of catepillar. Sorry, it won't affect the aphids. But Safer Insecticidal Soap will take care of them. I honestly don't know if the Safer Insecticidal Soap affects cabbage worms, I think it doesn't but I'm not sure.

There is a new product out (at least new to me) called Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control. It is supposed to control insects all season long with a single application. It is a systemic insecticide, and for most vegetables, you have to wait 21 days after application before you harvest the produce for consumption. It isn't organic, but it might be an option for you. I don't know what zone you are in, but for a lot of California it might be too late to use it because you'd miss out on getting to use the stuff that is ready soon and won't be good later in the summer.

Betsy

Here is a link that might be useful: Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control

I won't use systemics - don't want them in my fruit. But Bt which is sold as Dipel dust and Thuricide liquid is the choice for loopers and any other caterpillar.

The water hose will blast most aphids off plants and so will finger stripping/squishing. Aphids are attracted to excess N fertilizers in the plants so take that into consideration too.

The Safer Soap that Betsy mentioned is readily available and works on aphids and so does home-made soapy water solutions.

If you search 'aphid control' and 'cabbage looper' you'll find literally hundreds of discussions all over the forums here full of info.

Dave

I`ve had good luck with Neem at 2 week intervals and after heavy rain. Its good for the long haul because it makes insects steril(sp) can not reproduce. I`ve used it for four years and have no insect problems now. GOOD LUCK Bill

I second the BTK!

Get a little bottle of Bacillus thuringiensis K to dilute with water in a spray bottle. It's cheap! It's organic! And it only works on caterpillars (loopers included), so bees and beneficials are not affected and neither are you.

When you mix it in the spray bottle, just before applying it, add some plain dish soap--this will both help the BTK solution stick to the plants and kill most of the aphids.

If the aphid infestation is heavy, you might need more soap. I don't know if too much soap inhibits or kills the BTK (a live bacteria), so spray it a day before or after to err on the side of caution. The aphids probably aren't a big problem and can wait.

I think the BTK lasts from a couple of days to, IME, 10 days, depending on the humidity/rain. I use it to control hornworms, loopers, and Canna leaf rollers. Just keep it off of butterfly and moth pollinated flowers and their non-veggie/fruit larval host plants :)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm heading out today to get the BT & I love the idea of adding some soap to it. The aphids aren't real bad except on the new growth of my peas. The cabbage lopers aren't bad yet but last year they were out of control. Hopefully I can prevent that this year!

IVE TRIED USING SEVIN DUST MOALA FLOUR IVE TRIED EVERYTHING SEEMS LIKE TO ME FOR THESE CABBAGE WORMS AND THEY ARE STILL ON MY CABBAGE PLANTS IVE TRIED RED PEPPER GARLIC DISH LIQUID NOTHING SEEMS TO WORK CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME IF YOU KNOW SOMETHING THAT WILL GET RID OF THE CABBAGE WORMS THANK YOU

Last year I had cabbage worms something awful - all over all the time. No matter how much I sprayed I couldn't get them all & they kept coming back. This time around I started spraying sooner. I still didn't spray till I had an infestation but they were all baby worms so I think I stopped the cycle. Having said that I'm still spraying regularly - actually have to spray in the next couple days - to prevent their return. This year I'm spraying the organic BT but last year I used systemic spray. Once they're everywhere they're hard to get control of. I'd just spray the bad stuff ALL THE TIME until they seem to leave. Good luck!