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blutranes

Worm Bin Construction

20 years ago

Before I order my worms and/or find some locally I understand the bin should be ready, with the bedding allowed cool if need be. The worm bins will be kept outside. I plan on making large quantities of vermicompost due to the number of garden plots (6) and flowerbeds (8) I maintain. Should I make the bin large and order, say, 2# of worms or take it slower and let my worm population force me to make a lager bin? Do recall this is my first bin, however I would rather make the right size the first time rather than making one too large or too small. I will be feeding the worms semi-composted horse manure (fed coastal Bermuda hay), food scraps, and meals. Keeping in mind all the good suggestions I received on my first thread this will give me better clarification. Thanks for any shared insightsÂ

Blutranes

Comments (12)

  • 20 years ago

    In a sense, I think it's all relative. If I have x lbs of worms and y cubic yards of compost/manure, it will take z days to process and convert it to vermicompost. You imply a large scope, but don't really specify, for example, that you would like to process 1 cubic yard of manure per day, week or month. On the surface, what you describe would suggest a minimum of 2lbs of worms that could grow to larger numbers.

    -> if you will seek to grow the worm herd larger to expedite the time or process increased volume of materials, you will need to stage the vermicompost for 6 weeks or so to allow the cocoons to hatch and harvest them before using the vermicompost in your gardens.

    -> some caution is required in using horse manure as I have read that it's common that horses may receive medication for worms that may also kill EF.

    -> precomposting past the heating stage is a good idea, but remember that although fully composted materials make good bedding, worms require fresh decaying material to promote the protozoa and bacteria food sources they need. You may need to mix in greens for this purpose.

    -> in the outdoor, medium to large scale set-up, I think materials are best added 4-6 inches at a time, giving the worms time to process up wards before adding additional material (rather than creating one large heap). Alternatively, windows are often extended, causing the worms to migrate laterally. Admittedly though, there is a lot of flexibility in this regard.

    -> Remember the worms need for moisture in order to thrive and both reproduce and efficiently process materials and produce vermicompost. You may need to cover and/or rig some misting/watering device(s) to keep beds moist.

  • 20 years ago

    Hmmm...it is ovious we are lacking any type of reading material over here. I am going to have to check if these horses have been wormed before I do anything. It would be sad to not be able to feed the worms this manure. However, we are in this to have a healthy, alive worm population.

    I have a neighbor with 6 horses, a donkey, cow, and goat. I am cleaning out his barn for the spoiled hay and manure. I have gotten lots of clarification on how to compost the manure in a pile, but not with worms. I have at least 3 or more tonnes of manure now, yet still have about three more days of cleanup to go. We have not worked out what will happen once the stable and corral are cleaned, I am leaning towards him paying me, but I don't want to lose this source of manure either. Can we say a lot of manure along with my regular large stockpile of material? I know I want plywood bins, not plastic, but the size is of question along with others you have brought up. Now where is that math book...

    Blutranes

  • 20 years ago

    If it was me and I had tons of manure to process, I'd consider open windrows instead of bins. If possible, construct pits about a foot deep, otherwise on the surface - Approx. 3 feet wide by 2 feet tall and as long as practical. Considering a need for a sprinkler head, I'd have several windows back to back with 2-3 foot walkways in between, rather than fewer but longer windrows. Open windrows can have predators however.

    If you really want bins and considering the volume of material, you might consider dry stacked concrete block or corrugated roofing material (metal or fiberglass) instead of plywood as either will hold up much longer and not require any preservative. 1/2" hardware cloth on the ground will prevent predators like moles and voles.

    I would eventually need to insulate against the cold. In Georgia, you may need to take similar measures against the heat. Plan for a shady area and protect against heavy rains.

    Hope you find some small value in my ramblings.

  • 20 years ago

    Well, the pits are out of the question due to fireants and the like. Not to mention raccoons, opossums, and many more. These facts as well as others make windrows not a option in my eyes at this point.

    The concrete blocks idea may work I believe. I saw those pix SQH1 posted, although the shade factor as well as the need for water will have to be resolved. Being out in the country/wilderness will call for some creative ideas, and as you have stated, dealing with the heat. I am very much open for suggestions.

    Blutranes

  • 20 years ago

    Well, the pits are out of the question due to fireants and the like. Not to mention raccoons, opossums, and many more. These facts as well as others make windrows not a option in my eyes at this point.

    When I mentioned pits, I was thinking along the lines of digging out about a foot, then for example, having bins of say two feet high, just one foot in the ground. Use 1/2" hardware cloth in the bottom to keep critters out.
    Putting the bins down into the soil a bit conserves moisture and moderates temperature.

  • 20 years ago

    Oh, ok, I get it now. But it still doesn't help with animals. I live deep in the woods AddeysDad, real deep. With such a healthy ecosystem I am trying to give my worms the best chance to prosper. My goals are the same as you stated in "Corn meal, chicken mash, ect", we are on the exact same page. All I have to do is figure out how to make it work in my enviornment. The "In-ground bins" may be my best option?

  • 20 years ago

    I guess we're not on the same page really...

    Consider a bin that's say 4x8x2' tall. It sets in the ground about 1 foot so deep so it's 1 foot or so above ground. There's hardware cloth in the bottom and the bin has a cover.

    Would seem pretty protected ?

  • 20 years ago

    We are on the same page, it is my communication skills that are lacking.

    I understand your suggestion completely, and you are correct. A bin design of that type should be more than adequate. The type of material the bin is made of will determine its strength. The hardwire cloth will stop burrowing critters. Now, all I have to do is find a shaded place for it. Thanks for your time and patienceÂBlutranes

  • 20 years ago

    Perhaps if the bin had sufficient ventilation and the cover was of a light colored (or white painted) material (to reflect light/heat)...

    Perhaps get ideas from southern worm ranchers?

    (just thinking out loud)

  • 20 years ago

    My first experience with an outside type worm bin was about 3 years ago. A very nice cedar chest type box that I felt would be ideal for the effort. It worked OK for awhile, but then discovered those little critters have the "biggest teeth" and chewed right through the bottom of that heavy wooden box.

    I think if I needed a bigger worm bin outside, I would build a 2 or 3 foot high concrete block enclosure. Place it on a piece of heavy duty hardware cloth to prevent burrowing from below - although it will provide a natural escape hatch for the worms should things get too hot or toxic.

    A piece of wood on top should keep out diggers - skunks, etc.

    As I am now a 1 or 2 person family, my composting needs are presently being dealt with in the familiar plastic bin type housing. So far - so good. However, I also compost yard wastes in a pile - covered with a black tarp, heated in the sun. Works well in our hot climate - but needs watering - as we have little rain.

    I also composted using a styrofoam box - see my post regarding soldier fly larvae, it consisted mainly of orange drops and peels mixed with chicken manure and straw - perhaps the horse manure could be treated that way also. I would wonder about using it hot for worms tho, unless added in smaller amounts.

    Just my 2 c's.

    Bejay

  • 20 years ago

    Hi bejay9 10,

    I plan on making the concrete block type bin using the plan posted by SQH1 in the thread: "Inground Bins" http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/verm/msg1208134118244.html?17

    I am watching the sun to see where on the property I get good shade for most of the day, and then use that site for the bin. I want to do this right the first time, thus the slow movement until the time and location is right. I too am composting with several piles with plans to add the worm bin for major composting when I have enough.

    It would seem to me the peels and chicken manure would get really hot considering the chicken manure. I asked about using manure, but was told to make sure it had cooled before putting it in the bin. Styrofoam would seem kind of hot for your climate, is that working for you?

    I was told to ask around to see how others in my neck of the woods vermicompost which I did. The only response I got was to get an old refrigerator, put some dirt in it, add the worms, and then feed them animal feed. So much for local direction, I will stick to the boards and the Internet.

    I appreciate you giving your 2 cÂs bejay; I am thinking we are beginning the journey of the wormer in good hands.

    Blutranes

  • 20 years ago

    True - I've found these forums to have a lot of well-informed folks who can teach you the right way. They have had a lot of experience I'm sure. I can't speak high enough praises for all of the wonderful advice I've gotten here for a long time.

    Have fun - with your worms. (Gee that sounded funny).

    Bejay

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