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bejay9_10

Adding new bin on top of old.

20 years ago

I'm trying the double plastic bin method now - (bins are approximately 12 x 15 x 10 inches (deep).

Because the bottom box is quite full - though not completely decomposed, I decided to try another nucleus in another similar size bin placed on top, with the hopes that the worms will work up into the top bin, and if no new stuff is added below, it will decompose faster.

Would appreciate any ideas/suggestions in regard to this type of placement success.

Bejay

Comments (10)

  • 20 years ago

    That set-up sounds good. Just keep checking that the bottom of the top "working" bin is in good contact, always, with the top of the material in the lower bin. Worms don't jump up well..:)

  • 20 years ago

    This is very similar to the Can of Worms and the Worm Factory designs and should be successful. I think it makes the most sense to leave the bottom bin in place for 8 weeks or longer to not only ensure that more mature worms have a chance to migrate, but so that cocoons can hatch and the young worms can migrate. Be advised that no mater how long you wait, there will always be some homebodies that just seem content to stay behind. Also, although your bin is full, it will be some time before the bedding and foodstock resources are depleted to a point that would force the worms to migrate.
    One of the interesting lessons in worming is that of adaptability. It seems that some worms are seemingly in the forefront foraging in the fresh bedding and new feedstock while others seem to prefer the older, more foul vermicast portions of the bin.

  • 20 years ago

    Similar to the OSCR JR.
    Here is my recommendation. Put some shims on the side of the two bin, i.e. try taking a lot of the weight off the bottom bin. I found as the top bin got heavy, the bottom was compacted too much, and things weren't moving along as much. I use a little wood on the two handlers. As the material comes down, I move the top bin down.

    Handle ---:____________________:---
    -I-:____________________:-I- '

    I = wood

  • 20 years ago

    Newbie314

    Funny you should mention that, because that is exactly what happened. I quickly shredded a lot of fresh bedding to put on top, to provide some air space between the two bins.

    Like an old mother hen, I have been checking every few hours to make sure that my little "charges" in the bottom are not squished. So far so good, but I have been thinking about the very thing you suggested, putting some shims to keep the top box from sinking in too much.

    Thanks for all the help. They seem to be doing quite well, so wouldn't want to lose them at this late date.

    Bejay

  • 20 years ago

    I found the bottom bin to stink a little too much.
    And certain area of the paper were really compressed.
    No worms in the paper and I even had a hard time seperating it.

  • 20 years ago

    I believe the 'trick' is to only have a modest layer of bedding (AND FOODSTOCK) in the top bin - about 4 inches or so of bedding at most. This better ensures luring the herd up into the next layer and prevents presure in the old bin. Then you slowly add bedding with foodstock in the upper bin over time. Remember that you must leave the first bin in place about 6-8 weeks (or longer) to allow cocoons to hatch and make their way up to the upper bin. By this time, the upper bin is 1/3 to 1/2 full or so. Also, this migration process only works (or works best) when the resources in the lower bin are nearly exhausted... after all, why move away from home if all your needs are being met?

  • 20 years ago

    Know what you mean - these graduation/transition processes can be a bit unsettling at times.

    Good info - I'm sure they will be OK - (guess I'd better go check em tho).

    bye.

    Bejay

  • 20 years ago

    That's is the way I manage my bins, and I haven't had a problem with compression in the lower bin so far. When the lower bin gets nice and full, I just fish out a couple of handfuls of worms to get the next layer going, plop the second bin on top, add about four inches of shredded paper, and start feeding into it. I let the lower bin stay in place for quite awhile -- a couple of months at least to finish processing and allow the worms time to decide to move up. Then I switch the bins around (i.e., put the finished lower bin on top) uncover the top bin, and harvest the castings by scraping off the top inch or so every day. Most of the worms that are left move down into the lower bin, and the final layer of stubborn worms and castings I just dump into the lower bin. Then I start the whole process over again. It's worked pretty well for me!

  • 20 years ago

    fadoodle..That is a whole new way to harvest, that I have not heard before. That's why I love these good forums..always new things to share amd think about.

  • 20 years ago

    I'm surprised that compaction of the lower material/bin might be a concern. Wouldn't it just encourage the worms to migrate up inot the new bedding.

    Here's another version by Kelly Slocum

    The window screen harvesting method is a bit of a challenge to try and explain in text only, and I apologize for not having some pictures to help with this.

    It is time to separate the worms from the vermicomost/castings in bin-type systems that are fed and managed using the pocket feeding method (the bin is bedded to the top with damp, shredded bedding material and fed by digging holes or 'pockets' in the bedding into which feedstock is deposited) when the original bedding is no longer recognizable and the total volume of material in the bin has decreased by roughly half. At this time the window screen is set in the bin right on top of the ready-to-havest material. The bin is then filled the rest of the way with new, dampened bedding that is set right on top of the window screen. At this point the screen is sandwiched between the ready-to-harvest material in the bottom half of the bin and the new bedding in the top half. The ready-to-harvest material remains in the bottom half of the bin, beneath the screen, until the new material on top of the screen is ready to harvest.

    When the material on top of the screen is ready to harvest it is removed from the bin by lifting out the screen on which it is sitting. By this time virutally all of your worms will have typically moved through the screen into the material in the top half of the bin, leaving the vermicompost beneath nearly free of worms. The vermicompost from the bottom of the bin is then dumped out, the new batch of ready-to-harvest material containing all of your worms from on top of the screen is dumped into the bottom of the bin, the screen is set on top of this material, the bin is filled the rest of the way with new bedding set right on top of the screen, and you begin feeding into the new bedding.

    This harvesting method gives the worms ample opportunity to thoroughly process the material beneath the screen and to move through the screen to the new bedding above when they are ready. Since the new bedding above the screen is initially less biologically active then is the material beneath, the worms are given the choice of where in the bin they prefer to be, ensuring the population is not stressed, and that there is no population decline. Further, this harvesting method provides time for cocoons that might be in the ready-to-harvest material beneath the screen to hatch and the babies time to move to the material above the screen, resulting in few worms "lost" during harvesting.

    Authored by Kelly Slocum

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