crabcat, I think it would be a good idea to click on the FAQ link at the top of this first page and scroll down until you find the article on How To PRevent Cross POllination.

I think it should answer most of your questions, but if not, please ask them here in your own thread.

As to the early fruits to be used, I wouldn't automatically say that b/c of no bees seen the seeds would be pure since the most common insect pollinators of tomatoes are tiny Halictid, aka Sweat bees, that most folks never see.

On the other hand blossoms self pollenize most of the time so the statistics are in your favor.

But I think the FAQ will give you even more infomration.

Carolyn

Hi, thanks for your answer Carolyn, i understand the cross pollination with the variuos aspects, as i am not going to be selling seed, and my tomato varites are planted far apart, i'm probably also ok, but i'm still trying to hedge my bets by getting them before they get big and lots of cross's in different ways can happen easier. I also understand its suggested that you should pick the best size and shape etc. My main question is are early fruit seed as good to save as later fruit? For instance, my stupice bloomed and set fruit before any other variety. No neighbors.. So no cross should have happened. Will those early fruit be as good seed wise as a later fruit say i bag?

Will those early fruit be as good seed wise as a later fruit say i bag?

Sure, there's no reason why they wouldn't be just as viable as long as the fruit the seed are from has matured.

Dave

My Stupice have flowered and set fruit first. Then my Black Cherry etc. down the line. No bees out yet.

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When I read the above I thought you were saying that both Stupice and Black Cherry had formed blossoms.

Sorry if I misinterpreted what you posted. ( smile)

Carolyn