the heat has to be pretty high to be a problem, and is only a real problem when the heat encompasses a large area, like most of the bin - otherwise they can take quite a bit, and they will back off if they want - I always have worms workin in my hot compost bins that get very hot and are turned weekly, they're mostly lower down, and around the sides - grinnin and slurpin!! I also transfer compost sometimes to a worm bin, and they don't blink even if it's all still quite warm

Bill

When heating occurs in a home bin you can just about count on the fact that it is pocket fed. Heat requires mass and some insulation, both of which are better supplied by massing food in one spot down in the bedding than when food is spread in a thin layer over the surface of the bin contents then covered with an equally thin layer of new bedding, as is done in top-feeding. If heating is a regular problem for you then consider the top-feeding method.

As for cocoons, these little structures and the developing young inside are barely impacted by the heating in a large backyard compost pile, let alone the lower heat achieved in a low-mass worm bin. Cocoons can survive drying; heating (to temps in excess of 115 degrees F); long-term submergence (more than two years); freezing for extended periods; and ingestion by animals, even ruminant animals, like cows and goats (provided they make it past the teeth). In response to stressful conditions outside the young within the cocoon slow development, completing developmnent when exposed to conditions more favorable to worm activity.

You can feel confidently that the heat in your bins has had no measurable impact on your cocoons.

Kelly S

Thank you Kelly for once again setting things straight. Personally it seems my worms don't have issues with warmer areas in my bin and if they do its up to them to mooooooove out of the way.

Thanks Kelly...I have been thinking of top feeding more and more lately. Maybe once I harvest and set up in a new bin.

Cass:)