I had the same problem a few years ago. I did not do anything, and over a period of several weeks the ants eventually killed all the worms. I let the container sit idle for a year, then cleaned it out thoroughly and now have a good bin going. I would also like to know what to do if it ever happens again.

I think I read somewhere that the ants will stay out if a bin is wet enough. Is your bin a little on the dry side? If that's not it, hopefully someone else will be able to help.

Also, making a tea of Blackstrap molasses is said to kill the ants....It softens their bodies or something like that....Also, like MKitten says, if the bin is dry, they will take up residence....Usually, it's the wet spring wether that drives them to higer ground...When they get there, they stay....Soak the bin....Dwight

Dwight is right; ants will rarely set up housekeeping in a bin that is adequately moistened, unless we are talking about fire ants. The comment tolumnia made about stinging and the locations of both Elaine and tolumnia leave me fearing that it is a fire ant invasion they are battling, and moisture seems not to be an issue with this type of ant.

Though it is unusual for fire ants to begin nesting in an elevated worm bin, they will enter systems in soil contact, and they will usually drive the worms from the system or kill them, though not always.

Sevin should not be used in a worm bin, but insecticidal baits containing spinosad (organic) or amdro (not organic) are both effective and can be used around the outside of the bin. These baits are highly attractive to fire ants, which take it back to the colony, feeding it to all members including the queen, and killing them. They are considered fast-acting and very effective.

Kelly S

Here is a link that might be useful: excellent fire ant information

I have an indoor bin, and we sometimes find a trail of sugar ants from the crack around the door to the worm bin. After doing vermiculture for about six months now, I've found that the main struggle I have is the balance between wet and dry. Too much food or moisture, and I get a stinky bin and a mold bloom (I'm allergic to molds, but the basic wormbin mold doesn't seem to bother me too much -- just the big blooms of mold). Too little moisture or bedding and I get ants or fruit flies.

It's been interesting to find the right balance. And I only check them once a week or so, when I feed them. They're surprisingly tolerant of my mistakes.

Anyone know whether diatomaceous earth can cause problems for worms? ghorganics.com says it's safe to use with earthworms. It's supposed to work great against insects and is non-toxic.

johnjohn,

Glad you brought that up....I think you're right...The DE won't hurt the worms...But I would like to hear it from someone that's actually used it....Dwight

Um, ok, well, I've used it, I've advocated its use, and it doesn't hurt earthworms. This is documented by both research and by practical application.

Cool?

Kelly S

Diatomaceous Earth (Fullers' Earth) would be effective against slugs--the near-microscopic sharp points of the fossilized diatoms pierce the slugs' soft bodies--but I question if this would deter ants. The ants were on/under the lid and cardboard (where it was nice and dry) and only an incidental few in the (moist) worm bin contents. I bought some treatment for the area and will hope that deters the ants. I spend a lot of time chasing them out of one venue or another; it seems as if they move instead of dying.
I appreciate all of the information. I did find Ambro at Lowe's.
EWalizer

I have an ant invasion, but I dont think they are Fire ants. Will the insecticidal baits containing spinosad (organic) or amdro (not organic) still work?

Thanks!
Jim

I found Ambro-containing treatment at Lowe's and it is effective but must be reapplied. Ants are very opportunistic and as soon as deterrents are gone, they come back. Recent heavy rains sent a fresh colony seeking a dry place for grubs, and I have had to chase them out again. the worms seem perfectly fine (tons of babies, bedding moist, composting going great guns) but I know as long as I have a nice homestead spot the ants will come back again and again. (I am also chasing them and their aphid herd out of my vegetable plot.) good luck!

This is just a mindless thought - but ants ( even fire ants) won't cross over a greased surface (not Crisco) grease. put it on heavy, make a ring around the legs of your bin supports-those that are in will probably stay in & the ones on the out will stay out. You can do the same thing with cans/containers of water. Set the support legs in the cans, fill, add dish detergent to break the tension and you will have drowned ants in their own swimming pool.

bruce

Having vermicomposted for 10 years in South Carolina, I've had several infestations of fire ants and used different methods of eradication.

First of all, let me say that I've never seen a fire ant attack a worm in a bin. I don't like having the ants in there because they bite and I'm mildly allergic to them, but they and the worms seem to ignore each other.

When I have an infestation, I try to make the bed inhospitable to the fire ants. They prefer dry conditions(although they'll survive moist), so the first thing I do is wet down the bed. My bins are outdoors and they're set up to drain, so I don't worry about the worms having too much moisture on a temporary basis.

The next thing I do, sometimes in conjunction with wetting down so I can make sure I've reached all areas, is disturb the bed. Fire ants hate being disturbed and although it won't kill them, they frequently will just leave. Sometimes I remove a few buckets of bedding and pick out the worms, being very careful to avoid the ants. Then I spread the bedding out in the sun, which the ants also hate. Once they've left the bedding, it can be remoistened and put back into the bin.

If possible, I cut off the ants' escape route to the ground using -- as bendback50 has suggested -- oil or water. Burnt motor oil works very well as a barrier and lasts for quite a while. Avon Skin-so-Soft bath oil is also effective but must be frequently reapplied. Whatever oil you use, just make sure to keep it out of contact with the worms.