bloom time

17 years ago

The most nutrient uptake occurs in the middle of the daylight photo-period. However, there is a 2nd peak of uptake, although less absorbed, around 2 - 4 hours after sun set.

There is no steady state of sipping nutrients or water occurring in tomatoes.

During bloom time only phosphorus (P), among the major nutrients, has little change in it's total day & night absorption.

At setting of 1st truss/bloom the P night time absorption rises a small %. (Yet to be clear, from calf high to maturing crop on the vine, P is essentially used in the same daily total amount.)

In concert, starting at 1st truss, potassium (K), calcium (Ca) & magnesium (Mg) have their all time maximum night time uptake phase (which down regulates at fruiting) .

This leads into the time when we come look at out plants in the morning & feel they took off while we slept. Both P & N are highly mobile inside the plant. Nitrogen actually decreases in night time uptake at 1st truss, from it's higher rate that coincided with +/- 8 leaf seedling growth onward.

Commercial fertilizers marketed as "Bloom" have a lower N ratio in relation to P. Growers can just as well reduce the N content at 1st truss & keep the same P content. At the root zone there are factors of pH & conductivity related to total nutrient ion congregation. (With liquid fertilizers the total dissolved solids (TDS) can be calculated for individual nutrient concentration of parts per million (ppm).)

Moving into the stage when fruit is growing, the night time uptake of major nutrients & water decreases (aside from consistant P). Fruit development diminishes the % of night time absorption.

The dynamic of fruit and root addresses the debate on size container to grow plant in. Big root system implies high carbohydrate ("sugar") mass & the roots are bulking up. Little root system is akin to sparser sugar conditions & less local bio-chemical activity.

Small roots, in other words, can actually mean more fruit; under a tactical fertilization regimen. Fertigation is how greenhouse bumper crops come from plants grown in small containers.

Large bottom wicking containers get big root systems and lush production too. Those tomatoes are usually intended to be able to access nutrients at night.

Night uptake period can be 35 - 40 % of total nutrient absorption.

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Comments (8)

sprtsguy76
17 years ago
Yeah, what you said. Any who, my plants are blooming like crazy and setting loads of fruit. One of my garden beds got a nice dose of home brewed compost tea tonight.

Damon
gringojay
Original Author
17 years ago
Hi sprtsguy,
I do it in the dirt too, with drip irrigation & worm castings' aerobic tea.
My hurricane season has me shy about investing in greenhouses, so
am at mercy of weather each crop.
Development projects are where I get to play with controlled set ups.
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sprtsguy76
17 years ago
Well I sure as heck hope no hurricanes come tearing through your crop this season, good luck.

This was actually my first go at brewing compost tea, it came out very nice and smelled quite good after brewing it three days with an aquarium pump. I added some molasses too. This stuff is supposed to be like liquid gold.

Damon
myron26155
17 years ago
gringojay,

Very nice article. Thanks
gringojay
Original Author
17 years ago
Hi myron,
You might find interesting "Bloom by Raising P", the 4th sub-post down in a thread from June 18, 09 posted on GW's Hydroponic Forum under original post's title "Veg & Fruit Cycle:Peppers".
I lack computer savvy to just replicate sub-post here. Sub-post is relevant to tomatoes, but originally post is certainly about a different crop .
You can copy sub-post "Bloom by Raising P" here or link it, if you're able & want to do so for any reason.
Any criticism is welcome, as well; am boring some I know.
yardenman
17 years ago
Was there a question you were answering or was that just an FYI?
gringojay
Original Author
17 years ago
Hi yardenman,
Yes a FYI, since most discussions of Phosphorus (P) mostly concerned with total % used.
(Tomato takes P up both day & night with little variation, unlike other major nutrients; but hardly altering total % P it does uptake.)
Miss the point of this tip?
It is for those with a fast draining growing medium (sandy soil, perlite & bark, etc.) with minimal soluble salts building up in it.
In that situation you can deliberately fertigate (water with dilute nutrient solution) the tomatoes some at night & there will be more total P uptake.
Also, for those with drip irrigation - set a cycle for night fertigation & there will be worthwhile uptake of P.
yardenman
17 years ago
Oh, OK. Thanks. I thought I was missing a debate somewhere.

I used to brew compost tea, but I decided to just put the compost on the garden and let the rain do the work for me. Its the same result.

Ah, my raised framed beds were originally the Square Foot formula, but after 20 years God knows what I have as ratios. All I know is that I reach down finger-deep and grab a handful of wonderful friable mix.

My grandfather taught me a basic rule: Don't feed the plants; feed the soil. I know that's trite, but it's true, If you have good soil, add seeds and water and you are "good to go".

I think some people (with all good intentions) make it too complicated.