darlinsk: Any properly maintained worm bin system should be non-stinky. It sounds like you would probably generate enough food scraps to feed a big flow-through bin. As with all new worm bins, it will take time for the bin ecosystem to ramp up to capacity.

Some questions:
* what is the average air temp in your basement (summer & winter)?
* what food prep routine are you considering (pre-rot, freeze, microwave, chop & drop, etc.)?
* how many pounds of scraps do you generate per week?
* how many pounds of worms & which species were you considering?

Here's a collection of DIY Flow-through bins for you to browse through.

Andrew

Andrew; thanks for your response. I had already discovered that list of flow through bins, and gone through them all! :-) It's amazing how much info is easily accessible.

* I don't know the average basement temperature, but I believe it stays within the acceptable range for worms; my guess would be > 50F and * I'd like to do as little food prep as possible; optimally keep chopped material in a small composting container in my kitchen and empty it every day or two. From what I've read, worm prefer to be feed less frequently, and do best with some pre-processing. I'm open to recommendations for the the least fussy method that works.

* Sigh; I guess I haven't done my homework on the quantity of scraps -- but it can be a fair amount -- although it's cyclical. I definitely have more in the summer when my CSA is active. I assumed that the worm population would adjust to my quantity.

* I was thinking of using red wrigglers, and starting with a couple pounds. I would feed smaller quantities in the beginning and increase the feedings as they multiplied.

Is a 55 gallon drum considered a big flow through bin?

Hi All; Size is relative to the space you have to do this worm farming project.
Is a 55 gallon drum considered a big flow through bin?
For my operation I would say no I have one and it is opreating similar to the Worm Wig-Wam Round 36" tall and 36" diameter. That commercially made bin is a small flow thru system. Large systems start at 5'X 16' and medium is from the small round one like the WW up to a system that 5' X 16' size, More to the point is what size do I need to process all the waste my family will produce in the form of worm food to keep the system going. A 55 gal will hold about 6-7# of worms. So you need to figure out how much worm food in food and bedding waste your family will generate. If the worm scraps 3-3.5# per day you may need 2 such systems. You will then have vermicompost for your house plants and the lawn and gardening you may want to do.

darlinsk: I don't know about ALL your kitchen waste but how about all but huge volume days? I'm guessing you are using an outdoor compost bin presently. You may wish to continue to do that for thick brocolli stems, brussel sprout stems, old cabbage heads and corn cobs and husks.

From what I have read I can see one of the hanging cloth bag vermicomposting systems working well for you. The main advantage is the sides are said to breath thus top, bottom and sides are all worm dense processing areas.

I am surprised more vermicomposters don't have one. My guess is we are all pretty satisfied with the systems we have and don't have a reason to spend $ to fix what already works pretty good. I have a very tiny 8 gallon plastic flow through. Surface area .75 square foot. It has taken two years, but kitchen waste now seems to melt into vermicastings. Zero food or cardboard prep. It just needs to fit in the bin.

*Sigh* I don't compost at all now. I put it in my trash, or down the garbage disposal -- hence my desire for something different. If I go the vermicomposting route, it would be my only composting system.

I've looked at those hanging systems. It's pretty inexpensive to get set up with one, including a PVC stand. I have a few concerns with it. First, it's hard to believe that the tabs that attach it to the stand are sufficient for its weight. Secondly, wouldn't a downside of high breathability be that it dries out more quickly, and requires more monitoring for moisture? It's certainly easy ... no drums or rods or jig saw ...

"garbage disposal" Egads! We must get you composting right away.

I am not sure PVC will hold the weight like they say. The tabs would seem like they would pull out of the seam. Maybe somebody who owns one will chime in.

The kitchen scraps of 2 vegetarians, who cook extensively would probably contain all the moisture the system would need.

I use a rubbermaid tote as my worm bin. Actually, I have two now, one indoors with shredded paper from the office and veggie scraps, and one outdoors with leaves, plant clippings and more veggie scraps.

You can certainly go smaller to start out, to make learning easier. Move up to a larger one as you get comfortable.

In fact, it's an addicting activity. Most composters started small, and the next thing you know, you're sneaking the neighbour's leaf bags off their front curb.

Oh, and about the heat/cold issues...

I live in Ontario and kept the second worm bin outside all summer (full sun) and winter (in freezing temps). The worms are incredible survivors. I expected to open the bin this spring to find no worms, but they were thick as thieves in there! Again, rubbermaid tote, not a large insulated bin. You may want to experiment as long as you have an inside bin as a backup, just in case.

I don't know the average basement temperature, but I believe it stays within the acceptable range for worms; my guess would be > 50F and

E. fetida will do fine in that range, but they will be more productive (eat more & make more babies) if temps are above 70F. That's the temperature in the bin, not the air temp. E. hortensis may do better if your basement is consistently on the cool side. However, it MAY take them a bit longer to get up to speed because they grow and reproduce at a slower rate compared to E. fetida.

I'd like to do as little food prep as possible; optimally keep chopped material in a small composting container in my kitchen and empty it every day or two. From what I've read, worm prefer to be feed less frequently, and do best with some pre-processing. I'm open to recommendations for the the least fussy method that works.

There are many food prep routines, so take this as just a random sample. Since your husband is concerned about smells, I'm going to assume he also wouldn't be happy with fruit flies. (most of us aren't, so it's no knock on him for either aversion.) I recently started my first indoor bin and this seems to be working well so far. I have a few 1 gal. ziploc bags (Hefty brand with an actual zipper "handle"). I put one on the kitchen counter and put scraps into it until it's full. I then take kitchen shears and carefully (don't puncture the bag) cut the larger pieces. You can skip this part by chopping things up before you put them in the bag or just skip it altogether. The full bag then goes in the freezer for 2-3 days and an empty bag goes on the counter. Defrost the bag for a day, drain excess liquid (maybe for an outdoor plant?) and spread over half your bin. Rinse & air dry the bag so it's ready for it's next turn in the cycle.

I guess I haven't done my homework on the quantity of scraps -- but it can be a fair amount -- although it's cyclical. I definitely have more in the summer when my CSA is active. I assumed that the worm population would adjust to my quantity.

The worm population will grow according to the conditions provided for the worms. A given amount of worms can adjust easily if there is less food, but they can't really adjust if you suddenly provide more food than they are able to process in a few days. I know the amount will vary, but collect scraps for 2 days and see how much it weighs. At least it gives you a rough idea.

I was thinking of using red wrigglers, and starting with a couple pounds. I would feed smaller quantities in the beginning and increase the feedings as they multiplied....Is a 55 gallon drum considered a big flow through bin?

2 lbs. of E. fetida would be a good start for a standard 55 gal. drum FT. I consider it to be medium-sized, but on the large size for most indoor systems. If you read Jason's long thread about his 55 gal. FT, you know he ramped that up to the point it was able to process a lot of scraps. I don't know if he ever harvested all the worms to see what he had in there, but I'm guessing it could easily hold 10-15 lbs. of worms. Once that system is mature, it could probably take 10 lbs. of scraps every other day.

In your original post you asked "Should I be looking to go smaller?". It will mean a little more work later to "upgrade" your system, but considering some of the unknown variables, it might be best to start smaller. Although a flow-through system has definite advantages, a simple tote worm bin can also work quite well. Stock it with 1 lb. of E. fetida and start feeding 1 lb. of frozen scraps once a week. You can slowly decrease the time between feedings to 6, 5, 4, etc. days as the worm population increases and your bin ecosystem matures. If all goes well, you will have 2 lbs. of worms after 3 months of no-stink, no-fly vermicomposting. We can go over details if you choose to go this route.

Cheers,
Andrew

Thank you Andrew, and everyone for your responses. It's great to have this resource. I think I will start small, while I get the hang of it, and migrate to a drum flow-through bin later if all is going well. It will also give me time to get a better understanding of my basement environment, and the quantity of material generated by our household.

Upon thinking about it, freezing scraps seems doable. Plastic bags would drive me nuts, but I'm up for 2 or 3 rotating plastic containers. I'll also pick up one of the books before I get started. The one I always see recommended is "Worms Eat My Garbage". Is there something more current that would be better, or is that the bible?

Ok I am one of those people who make my meals from fresh food and while not a vegetarian I eat only small amounts of animal proteins. I am retired so that means eating all meals at home. Two gallons a week at the least of trims/peels and two UCG/filters of coffee per day. Last winter I had problems with the worms keeping up. I have two plastic bins 24"x18"x15" deep that's 6 square feet of bin. So your idea of a flow through 55 gallon sounds about right. I have determined that the problem last winter was cool temperature in the basement/bins and will use a low watt electric heating device to bring the bin temps. up to 70-80 degrees. I know this I had the bins out doors this summer and was surprised at the amount of scraps the little buggers eat. I have E.f. and E.h. Sorry guys I fish too. Ha Ha ;-) I thank every one for their help/ideas on here. From direct or just from reading this forum.

Curt P.S.I have a compost pile also for warmer weather and am landfill free for food scraps

Darlinsk -- I like flow-thrus alot and have down-scaled using kitchen trash cans. I have one that weighs over 40 lbs with lots of worm growth and casting production. You can make one with pvc or plastic coated garden stakes for under $15 using a utility knife and a drill. This would give you practice before you go big. I haven't read "WEMG" but I think it is the bible. I just read anything I can find on-line, weigh it with common-sense and ease of use and push on. Just remember the worms don't have the internet so they might not do what the internet says ;-)

Curt --how mature were your bins? If not very old, it may have been quantity of worms vs. temperature. Obviously a better temp will produce better but depending on how much you fish you should have at least 3 to 4 times more worms now!

Keith

Two gallons a week at the least of trims/peels and two UCG/filters of coffee per day.

You drink two pots of coffee a day?

I love my coffee butI think I would have a heart attack with that much caffeine!

HA HA yes but I don't drink it all by myself. My brother stops over in the mornings and I make the coffee. Often part of the last pot gets tossed, Now the worms that's a different story they need to eat the grounds whether I drink the coffee or not;)

Curt

"The one I always see recommended is "Worms Eat My Garbage". Is there something more current that would be better, or is that the bible"

darlinsk, I'm only halfway through the book. Although it has been revised many times through the years, some of the material does seem dated. With all due respect to the late Ms. Appelhof, who by all accounts helped lead the vermicomposting movement for decades, I have not read anything so far that I hadn't already gleaned from material posted on the internet. Some of that material was posted by Mary herself.

Here's some online reading material for you to browse through.

Cheers,
Andrew

I think I will go with a smaller flow through to start with. The trays don't call to me. However, I am uncertain about the worm variety. My basement temperature changes with the seasons. So, it seems that e.f. would be happier in the summer and e.h. would be happier in the winter. Is mixing them an option ... and let whomever is happiest become dominant? Or perhaps someone else living in the northeast could give a recommendation for the best worm in an unfinished basement of an old house (boiler is in the basement). Given that the bin will be warmer than the air temperature, I'm leaning toward e.f.

Once again, thanks to everyone for all the help.

Lissa (aka Darlinsk)

Lissa, if by "boiler" you mean a heating unit that will be leaking some heat to the area around it, then a worm bin near it should do well. A fellow vermicomposter in MA said the area near his furnace stays ~75F during the months the furnace is in use.

EHs may wander under certain conditions, so I think EFs will be best for your first worm bin. They can tolerate a wider range of temps and conditions. There's a reason they're the most popular worm for home vermicomposting. You can mix them, but I don't know of a seller who sells (at least knowingly) a EF/EH mix. You'd probably have to buy a pound of each.

Good luck. Did you decide on a particular FT design?

Andrew