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Plant them horizontally long or vertically deep?

17 years ago

Over the years I've seen and heard a lot of discussion about trench planting or vertically planting tomatoes. I've done both. The trench planting method worked well for me because they developed roots faster and usually had more nutrition and moisture available. I then started planting vertically deep.

I normally don't grow from seed. I prefer to let someone else take the risk of producing plantable seedlings. Next year, I plan on growing some heirlooms from seed, but the rest will simply be purchased as seedlings. When I buy seedlings, I prefer to buy the plants that are left after everyone else has bought theirs because the seedlings left are usually tall, skinny, and scraggly with few leaves left except at the very top.

When I plant, I use a bulb planter and push it into the ground as far as I can a couple of times. My hole will usually be ten to twelve inches deep. I will take a small amount of the soil I excavated and mix 1/2 teaspoon of 10-10-10 or this year 13-13-13 commercial fertilizer with the small amount of soil. I will refill the hole about two inches deep with the mix. I then drop my skinny, almost leafless seedling into the hole and refill the hole around the seedling. I usually have five or six leaves sticking our of the ground when I'm finished.

When I grew trench planted plants they did well, but they were not very draught tolerant and seemed to require more regular applications of fertilizer. By planting deep, my plants seemed to form roots in different layers of soil and didn't require as much additional moisture or fertilizer through the season. My philosophy (not scientific fact) is that we typically prepare garden soil only four to six inches deep getting nutrition, minerals, and moisture well mixed. As the season progresses and rain and other forms of moisture fall on the garden, the nutrition and minerals form layers. I believe by planting deep, my plants have access to all the layers through out the season. My deep planted plants were always more draught tolerant than the trench planted plants. The deep planted plants typically took a week longer to really go into a rapid growth phase than the trench planted plants, but quickly caught up.

Since I also plant very crowded, by planting deep; I have more real estate available for planting in a restricted space.

What are your thoughts?

Ted

Comments (15)

  • 17 years ago

    Although not at all scientific and full of variables, I planted two Black Cherries (BCs #1 and #2) this year, started in mid-Jan, and am seeing a difference:

    BC #1, 16" at planting, was planted vertically deep, with about 3" above the soil. This was planted in mid-March, using a wall o water.

    BC #2, 24" at planting, was planted trenched, again with about 3" above the soil. This was planted mid-May.

    BC #2 grew much faster then BC #1. It's finally gotten warm here and BC #1 has started to "catch up", but BC #2 has fruit and BC #1 is maybe just blooming.

  • 17 years ago

    Ted

    I've also planted tomatoes both ways, and to be honest, I can't tell the difference, though I've never done a comparison the same year with the same variety as austinnhanasmom is doing.

  • 17 years ago

    I live in the Chicago area, zone 5, which has clay loam. Here, development is earlier with trench planting because the temperature of deep soil stays lower longer. With deep planting (>= 1 ft.), I never have to water. The only disadvantage to deep planting and never watering is that the tomatoes are likely to crack when it rains.

  • 17 years ago

    Ted, I think it depends on your ground. Our drought conditions did the same thing- after the ground cracked
    the plant wilted and there wasnÂt enough water to bring it back Now after adding amendments over the years,
    I use a cordless drill and bulb auger to make a hole 6-8" deep, and plant vertically only.
    To this I sprinkle in Tomato Tone and mix it around, then ring the plant before putting the Wall o water around.
    I give them only 36" no matter if determ or indeterm.

  • 17 years ago

    There was research done (Alabama I believe) that looked at planting the root ball deeper.

    The point from that a southern grower might find interesting was that deeper planted root balls flowers set fruit better at higher temps compared to shallow planted root balls.

    In the south there could be a benefit. In the north, I would suspect some would benefit from the root ball being in warmer soil.

  • 17 years ago

    I plant my toms with southern exposure, against my white sided house and in obsessively maintained soil... so i have something of a micro-climate for my zone. That said, I have always had good luck (and seeming drought tolerance as mentioned) by planting as deep as I dare. This year, I only left the first set of primary leaves and the growth tip above ground level and my plants are doing quite well... lots of fruit, many blossoms, and already topping their cages (even with the wretched, perpetual rain)

  • 17 years ago

    I did some of ea, why not a deep trench? Dig it deep, lay it on it's side.

  • 17 years ago

    simmran,

    Do you mean you top your plants at 36" height?

    Ted

  • 17 years ago

    My tomato seedlings were quite stocky this year and ranged anywhere between 14" and 16" when they went in. I snapped off the bottom five leaves and planted the root balls into about a 10" hole. I got some sunscald the first week from apparently not having hardened them off well enough, but they all recovered and have burst into full growth mode.

    I was a little reluctant to plant them vertically as opposed to trenching them, but this is how I will do it from here out. When we get a dry spell for a few days, I know the root ball is able to take advantage of the moisture 10" down, although the top 2" may be bone dry if I've been away for a couple days. It gives me peace of mind.

    I planted 216 plants this year--16 different varieties--and am quite excited to see just what kind of a harvest I'm going to get. Let's pray for a hot August!

    John

  • 17 years ago

    In my home garden, I trench planted some and deep planted some. Drought tolerance is not a concern where I live (please, will it ever stop raining????) I do have the hated black walnuts around my yard, so I am always trying new tactics to get better in ground growth (as opposed to PITA potted plants) I am hoping with trench planting the root ball may be a bit shallower, and less likely to encounter the BW roots.

  • 17 years ago

    216 plants. Oh my. I thought the year I planted 60 I was bad! I have always planted mine deep. 60 percent of the height is the rule of thumb. I have read that the roots will grow 9 feet deep. This year my plants were 2 feet tall so I dug a hole 2 feet deep, mixed a shovel of manure with some soil in the bottom and placed the plants 16 inches deep. The setback to trench planting are that you have to be careful cultivating, you can more easily break the plant during planting, and they are not so drought resistant.

  • 17 years ago

    Really good point Mulio. It may make sense from a soil temp perspective to plant shallow where the deep soil is coldest and deeper where the surface soil is warmest. I have always had good luck with deep here ( plants have grown a foot and are setting buds in just a week) and will probably stick with what works for me but your point is what this site is all about! The dissemination of ideas and making us all think!

  • 17 years ago

    I planted my tomatoes which I started from seed way too early 2' deep. My mom who had mostly the same varieties and even used some of my extra seedlings trenched them in. I planted about a week earlier than she did. Her plants took off a little quicker than mine did and set fruit about a week earlier, but now in late june with a week and a half of 90°-100° weather mine are still growing strong look healthy, and are about 2 feet taller than hers are. Hers are also starting to look stressed. Oh I didn't fertilize and grow just leaves I actually have about 2x the fruit set per plant that she does, but I think that's more because she prunes back to 2 or 3 vines and I just let mine go pretty wild in a cage. I do prune and sucker now, but that's because if I didn't trim and sucker now the plants would take over my garden and shade out everything else.

  • 17 years ago

    I used to trench, but for the last 20 yrs I have planted them deep (but probably never any more than about 15"). It seems better (less watering) to me and lot easier to deep plant.
    JMO,
    Tom

  • 17 years ago

    I have done both but find the trench method works best for us. While I am in an area with short, cold springs that leap into immediate hot summers, we have a heavy clay soil. We also irrigate from a large irrigation ditch. Our rows are from East to West so when I trench, the roots are on the west side of the plants to get any early warmth in our cold clay. One year I thought I would be smart and try trenching them with the roots toward the southwest. Big mistake. My master weedsmith, dh with the fastest hoe in the west promptly took out several plants not knowing the roots were in that portion of the row. Back to the west side.

    I think deep planting would be best in lighter soils with longer seasons. My heavy soil doesn't dry out easily. We don't even begin to irrigate until July and then only once a week until fall. This is row irrigation, not sprinkling.

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