I don't understand why you would have granulate in the pot if you used MG soluble fertilizer, which is the water dissolve type. Is this what you used? Maybe it wasn't mixed thoroughly. Did you first use a granular type, like 10-10-10?

Thanks shirleywny to reply my question. I've been using granular type MG 10-10-10 and I didn't buy the water dissolve type. What my question was why didn't the granular dissolve in the container? Is it too late to add lime to my plant when it's setting fruit? Do I have to add calcium to my plant to avoid BER happening to my plant?
Thanks to all

Supersweet

Go to the top page of this tomato forum and punch the FAQ section-there is a nice section on BER-Blossom End Rot. The best time to use lime is at time you prepare soil prior to planting. However, I still add lime to my tomatos and veggies. Don't know if it does any good. I'm just a backyard city farmer.

I have to admit I think MG is a disappointment and intend to check on alternatives today at a local nursery or Lowes.
If you see signs of BER, you might try Stop Rot which is a calcium solution that can be found at the Big Box Stores.

TD

Thanks TD. Have anyone used MG 10-10-10 for your tomato plants every two weeks? Is it nomal that the granular won't dissolve and stay in the container? I think when I finish the whole bottle of MG 10-10-10 by the season, my container will be filled with tons of granular!!! I'm worried the granular fertilizer will finally kill my plant as it won't dissolve! By the way, I put 2 inches dry grass clipping for mulching to prevent weeds. Would that be the reason why the granular won't dissolve because of the clipping? I only put 2 tsp full of 10-10-10 every two weeks in my 8 gallon pot and put 1 gallon of water every five days. Am I doing all right?

Supersweet,

It sounds like you could have a high risk of over feeding very soon if you are adding more fert before the old is dissolved.

I've never used that product but 2tsp every 2 weeks sounds like a lot for an 8gal pot.

How does the plant look?

Also, fresh grass clippings are very high in Nitrogen and would not be my choice for mulch in containers.

Best of luck!

{{gwi:1354459}}
Is this what you are using?

From what I remember, the fertilizer disolves at MG's recommended rate. New fertilizer should not be added until all the initial is dissolved.

In other words, you add a certain amount of dry fertilizer. After a certain volume of water runs through the cannister, all of it will have dissolved. if you have not reached that threshold, then some of the "granular" fertilizer will be left in the bottom.

Instructions

I've been using what they call shake 'n feed multi-prupose slow release plant food. Has anyone used it for tomato plants? I've 6 cherry tomato plants and 2 early girl growing in containers. They now look good and healthy. They're about 5-6 feet tall. Only a few blomssoms at the bottom have blomssom drop. I think it's because I planted them way to early in spring. Other than that, all the plants look OK and I now have more than 100 blomssoms over 8 plants. Anyway, should I still keep on using shake 'n feed that it won't dissolve? Should I add lime to help the tomato plant to grow healthier? Besides, I've used DRY grass clipping for mulching and I didn't find the soil has ever dry up even in hot hot days. I only water it every five days, it's OK to keep on watering with this pattern?

I'd say stop fertilizing as you said your plants look great.
If your watering only every 5 days(which is fine if your planst look healthy) and fertilizing every two weeks, your watering less than three times per fertilization. Chill on the fertilizing and let the exisiting fertilizer break down and feed your plants.
I'd say not to worry about the lime, its usually mixed in the soil at the time of planting as it takes a while to breakdown and be takin by the plant.
Lime is usually used to counter blossom end rot.
With mostly Cherry type tomatoes you shouldnt have a problem with that.
So, I'd keep watering as you have, but stop the fertilizing and let whats in there break down and feed you plants. You dont want to risk over fertilizing like someone said above

Brian

The Shake and Feed is a slow release product so no, it does not dissolve immediately but is intended to dissolve slowly over time as it is exposed to water/rain. It does not normally require frequent application. To my knowledge it is not intended for use on the surface of containers but for in-ground plants.

However, since your plants appear healthy they are obviously getting some benefit from it. ;)

Container plants would benefit more I think from either a solid granular fertilizer mixed deep into the potting soil down at root level (usually added before planting) OR from a water dissolved type fertilizer (MG makes several of them, 1 especially for tomatoes).

That said, tomato plants in containers do require more frequent feeding AND watering that those in the ground. But how frequent depends on the type of fertilizer you are using. With the Shake n' Feed, IF I were to use it on container plants, I wouldn't add it more than every 4-6 weeks but as I said, other forms would be better.

I am also concerned that your plants in those small containers are watered so infrequently. It all depends on your climate of course and I don't know where you live but most of use have to supply more water and more often than that. Are you watering deeply so that water drains out of the bottom of the container? That is better than just shallow watering.

I don't see any reason to add any lime or calcium as neither would provide any benefit at this time. And as the others have pointed out, fresh grass clippings are high nitrogen and can burn the plants. It is good that you are mulching but they are best used after being well dried out. Either way they need to be kept away from direct contact with the plan stem.

So it sounds as if your plants may be getting too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, and possibly too little water. But judge by the appearance of the plant and fruit.

I hope this is of help. ;)

Dave

Use of fresh grass clippings may depend on area. As I apply them as mulch around all my garden and have never had any trouble. If you mix them in the soil yes they will decompose and you will get more N but the same goes for alfalfa mulch ect. I just build the mulch up on top. Here in our dry climate it takes a while for the bottom to decompose and compost. I do till some areas in the fall but others I leave. I apply them fresh but only 1-2" deep at an application so they dry out. I also put them around my container plants and they do great. If you were in a wet climate maybe it would be different. I've never gardened in one so wouldn't know about that. My 40 plus years have been in a semi arrid area. JD

10-10-10 granular is only 30% fertilizer.

10% N - 10% P- 10% K and 70% filler.

what you see is the undissolved filler.

In order to grow a healthy tomato plant, you really need the calcium from the beginning.

Thanks Timmy1. I didn't add any calcium (lime) in my soil to start with. Do I HAVE to add it in right now to be able to make my tomato healthier? Look at my plants how big they are now! You said that granular 10-10-10 is not enough. I happened to have 20-20-20 water dissolve type fertilizer, should I put it to my plants every couple of weeks?
{{gwi:1347090}}

supsweet,

I noticed your nice setup of pots against the house. You may just want to build a raised bed there, which will allow for more freedom of root movement into the ground underneath.

Some decking wood 12" x 2" x "however long your setup is" will do

Supersweet,

1 tbs of 20-20-20 is equal to 2 tbs of 10-10-10.

So, one could over feed with 10-10-10 or under feed with 20-20-20. It's all a matter of proper measure.

For example,

I could pay someone $100 with one(1) $100 bill, (10) $10 bills, or (100) $1 bills.

Think of your fertilizer the same way, (100) $1 bills or tbs. seems like a lot more than (10) $10 bills or tbs.

I cannot tell from the pictures. Chances are if your not feeding calcium, the only way there going to get enough is rooting out the bottom of those pots and picking it up from the ground below.