tara what your plants are telling you is they were not getting enuff water, period.

digdirt- an outstanding explanation.

I will also add to this

• Splitting is a different issue. It isn't caused by inconsistent watering but by inconsistent soil moisture levels - periods of dry soil

followed by periods of overly wet soil.
That inconsistent watering can also cause BER - Blossom End Rot.

During the heat of summer I water my tomatoes 2x/day. I use buckets with small holes drilled in them and have begun using large pots left over from plants but they have larger holes in them so I use leaves and compost to slow down the release of water. The idea is to have a slow release of a measured amount of water to soak deeper into the soil.

Keep in mind now that as a plant grows so do the roots that feed the plant. IF you are still watering next to the plant stem that could contribute to a lack of water problem.

Roots can extend 6-10ft out (in ea direction) from where the stem enters the soil. That could be why the splitting problem. Is the water you put down getting to the plants? IF it is - they won't spilt.

I started using 3gal buckets but you can use any size. I drilled 4 small holes 90* apart. Just find a size that lets the water seep out but make it big enuff it won't clog up when things fall into the bucket.

I have been known to use soaker hoses around the outside of a bed but I use rain barrels which have NO pressure so I drilled holes thru the hose every 6inches. Time consuming yes but it does help to again have a measured amount of water.

Plus I tend to forget when I use a hose from the city and it just stays on so when/IF I run out of rain water I fill the barrels from the hose let it sit a day or two then release it into the soakers. Should I forget it just runs out :)

Plants like the rain water better plus I don't have to pay extra for my COG - Cost of Gardening. :)

HTH

tara what your plants are telling you is they were not getting enuff water, period.

digdirt- an outstanding explanation.

I will also add to this

• Splitting is a different issue. It isn't caused by inconsistent watering but by inconsistent soil moisture levels - periods of dry soil

followed by periods of overly wet soil.
That inconsistent watering can also cause BER - Blossom End Rot.

During the heat of summer I water my tomatoes 2x/day. I use buckets with small holes drilled in them and have begun using large pots left over from plants but they have larger holes in them so I use leaves and compost to slow down the release of water. The idea is to have a slow release of a measured amount of water to soak deeper into the soil.

Keep in mind now that as a plant grows so do the roots that feed the plant. IF you are still watering next to the plant stem that could contribute to a lack of water problem.

Roots can extend 6-10ft out (in ea direction) from where the stem enters the soil. That could be why the splitting problem. Is the water you put down getting to the plants? IF it is - they won't spilt.

I started using 3gal buckets but you can use any size. I drilled 4 small holes 90* apart. Just find a size that lets the water seep out but make it big enuff it won't clog up when things fall into the bucket.

I have been known to use soaker hoses around the outside of a bed but I use rain barrels which have NO pressure so I drilled holes thru the hose every 6inches. Time consuming yes but it does help to again have a measured amount of water.

Plus I tend to forget when I use a hose from the city and it just stays on so when/IF I run out of rain water I fill the barrels from the hose let it sit a day or two then release it into the soakers. Should I forget it just runs out :)

Plants like the rain water better plus I don't have to pay extra for my COG - Cost of Gardening. :)

HTH

tara what your plants are telling you is they were not getting enuff water, period.

digdirt- an outstanding explanation.

I will also add to this

• Splitting is a different issue. It isn't caused by inconsistent watering but by inconsistent soil moisture levels - periods of dry soil

followed by periods of overly wet soil.
That inconsistent watering can also cause BER - Blossom End Rot.

During the heat of summer I water my tomatoes 2x/day. I use buckets with small holes drilled in them and have begun using large pots left over from plants but they have larger holes in them so I use leaves and compost to slow down the release of water. The idea is to have a slow release of a measured amount of water to soak deeper into the soil.

Keep in mind now that as a plant grows so do the roots that feed the plant. IF you are still watering next to the plant stem that could contribute to a lack of water problem.

Roots can extend 6-10ft out (in ea direction) from where the stem enters the soil. That could be why the splitting problem. Is the water you put down getting to the plants? IF it is - they won't spilt.

I started using 3gal buckets but you can use any size. I drilled 4 small holes 90* apart. Just find a size that lets the water seep out but make it big enuff it won't clog up when things fall into the bucket.

I have been known to use soaker hoses around the outside of a bed but I use rain barrels which have NO pressure so I drilled holes thru the hose every 6inches. Time consuming yes but it does help to again have a measured amount of water.

Plus I tend to forget when I use a hose from the city and it just stays on so when/IF I run out of rain water I fill the barrels from the hose let it sit a day or two then release it into the soakers. Should I forget it just runs out :)

Plants like the rain water better plus I don't have to pay extra for my COG - Cost of Gardening. :)

HTH

tara what your plants are telling you is they were not getting enuff water, period.

digdirt- an outstanding explanation.

I will also add to this

• Splitting is a different issue. It isn't caused by inconsistent watering but by inconsistent soil moisture levels - periods of dry soil

followed by periods of overly wet soil.
That inconsistent watering can also cause BER - Blossom End Rot.

During the heat of summer I water my tomatoes 2x/day. I use buckets with small holes drilled in them and have begun using large pots left over from plants but they have larger holes in them so I use leaves and compost to slow down the release of water. The idea is to have a slow release of a measured amount of water to soak deeper into the soil.

Keep in mind now that as a plant grows so do the roots that feed the plant. IF you are still watering next to the plant stem that could contribute to a lack of water problem.

Roots can extend 6-10ft out (in ea direction) from where the stem enters the soil. That could be why the splitting problem. Is the water you put down getting to the plants? IF it is - they won't spilt.

I started using 3gal buckets but you can use any size. I drilled 4 small holes 90* apart. Just find a size that lets the water seep out but make it big enuff it won't clog up when things fall into the bucket.

I have been known to use soaker hoses around the outside of a bed but I use rain barrels which have NO pressure so I drilled holes thru the hose every 6inches. Time consuming yes but it does help to again have a measured amount of water.

Plus I tend to forget when I use a hose from the city and it just stays on so when/IF I run out of rain water I fill the barrels from the hose let it sit a day or two then release it into the soakers. Should I forget it just runs out :)

Plants like the rain water better plus I don't have to pay extra for my COG - Cost of Gardening. :)

HTH

read that I should give them a deep watering every other day to make the roots grow deeper; deeper roots equals a healthier plant. I'm now told that my tomatoes are splitting because of erratic watering.

It is easy to misunderstand some of the terms used when discussing watering and we tend to over-simply instructions on it simply because it is a complex and long-winded discussion.

The goal is consistent and stable soil moisture levels throughout the season and despite the weather. That doesn't come from any "schedule". What "schedule" may work for one person would kill another person's plants and vice versa.

So you have to learn what YOUR soil and YOUR plants need. That means using your hands to determine what slightly moist soil feels like down near the roots and learning to keep it that way all the time whatever the weather.

That may mean watering once a day or once a week. Unless you have a very shallow bed of less than 8" then every other day is likely way too often but 30 mins with a soaker hose is not much water at all. The average soaker hose delivers less than 1/4 gallon per hour so time yours. Learn how long it actually takes to deliver 1 gallon of water by burying a tuna can or similar 1 1/2" deep can in the soil so that the top rim sits at soil level and run the hose over it. Run the hose until the can is full and note how long it takes. A crude but effective method. Once you know the time needed then do that 1x a week, maybe 2x a week if really hot and dry and see how your plants respond.

Do you heavily mulch your plants? If not, do so. What type of soil do you have? Sandy? Clay? High organic levels or not? How close are your plants planted? Are all parts of the bed getting equal amounts of water? What time of day do you water? This is only some of the variables involved.

Splitting is a different issue. It isn't caused by inconsistent watering but by inconsistent soil moisture levels - periods of dry soil followed by periods of overly wet soil.

But much of splitting can be eliminated it you learn to pick at the proper time. If rain is forecast pick any fruits that show any signs of color before it rains. Learn about picking at "breaker stage", what some call "blush" when the blossom end of the fruit shows it is starting to ripen, and let them ripen inside on the counter.

Before you turn on the watering hose first check to see if any of the fruit need to be picked. Do not leave even partially ripening fruit on the plant when watering. That will guarantee splitting.

The main point is to learn to be flexible. Forget schedules and learn to water when the plants need it instead.

Hope all this helps.

Dave

Also, there is a difference between splitting and cracked shoulders. I'm not sure what causes cracked shoulders on various different tomato varieties. Splitting of tomato skins is different. I've heard that tomatoes will split after a rain when a tomato swells from water the plant absorbs. This might be true in some cases, but I don't agree completely with that theory. IMO it the contraction of the skin that splits the tomato, not the swelling of the inside of the tomato. I have found that skins will split because when rain hits a warm tomato skin it contracts (and splits) due to the cooling of the skin, and not the swelling of the tomato. Example: I've had perfectly good tomatoes split after only receiving a light rain shower. The ground wasn't even wet under the plant, but the skins split when they got just a little water on them.

I can supply you with what I know: I built an 8' x 8' square raised garden bed. It stands about 16" high. I filled it with 75 bags of inexpensive top soil from Home Depot. I added some Peat Moss and began gardening. I haven't put any mulch, yet. I water in the AM and as far as I can tell the entire bed receives the same amount of water.
I think my mistake was not enough watering after the plants became larger. I need to learn more as time goes by.
Thanks for all the advice

So true.
Some tomatoes split faster then others.
My sweet 100 split after a big rain, but the Juliet's went unharmed or had a small scar.
These plants are side by side & mulched heavy with pine straw & a soaker hose.

Could it be that I have TOO much drainage? It is almost impossible to make a puddle on the bed, no matter how much I water.

If you have good drainage it's hard to over water them. Look at self watering containers, they are wet all the time, and those tomatoes don't split. The only time my skins will split is if I let it rain on the tomatoes themselves. I just make sure I pick any red (or close to it) ones if it's going to rain. Sure enough, if I miss one and it gets wet, the skins will split. I currently grow in containers, and I SOAK the containers at least once per day, and no splitting. If you have good drainage, let them drink (feed them too) as much as they want, and they'll grow like crazy. My only self-watering container is my biggest plant. No such thing as too much drainage as long as you keep the soil moist...the roots will love it!

Agree with Edweather on drainage. You can't have too much drainage. I have very sandy soil (which often dries out while I am at work), and I also use a very fast draining soil less mix in containers. I have never experienced splitting nor BER.

Now about rain or water on tomatoes? I certainly have my tomatoes rained on, and also inadvertently hit them with cold water during watering, and I still don't get splitting, so I'm not sure about that one. There must be more factors at play such as skin thickness or elasticity in certain conditions.

Capoman, you might have something there on the tomato watering. Have you ever tried a little cool water on a red one in the middle of a hot summer afternoon?

It even happens to me if it rains a little on a summer night, and I've got some red ones on. 9 out of 10 times I'll at least get some concentric circle cracking around the top of the tomato, if not just a regular ol' split going down the side. It always ends up being one of those 'shame on me' things if I forget to pick any almost-ripe tomatoes before it rains. I will concede that it happens to some varieties more than others.

Interesting how people's experiences are different.

Nope. Never have an issue with that. I try to leave my tomatoes on until fully ripe. I definitely hit them with cold water quite often as I have to manually water daily on hot days due to my sandy soil. During the week, I usually water in the late afternoon after work when it is still quite hot. I grow many varieties from cherries (which are supposed to split easily) to paste, hybrid, and beefsteak varieties. I just don't get BER or splitting, in ground or in containers. I live on high ground, and go from very hot temperatures to very cool temperatures as well daily. Could that be toughening them up a bit?

One thing I should mention, is that the roots of my tomato plants grow VERY deep in my sandy soil. I have pulled up roots that I'm sure were five feet deep or more. I do remove bottom leaves and plant very deeply anyway. Also, my tomato beds are on top of a heat pump field that is at the six foot deep level. In summer, air conditioning in the house warms the deep soil at that level. Not sure if this is making a difference or not.

Shallow roots can certainly contribute to the splitting as they would not get adequate water for the plant.

I'll have to remember to check the root depth when I pull them out. I think that they were shallow when I pulled them out last year (memory is a bigger problem than tomatoes but that's for as different forum). I'm getting ahead of myself but what if shallow roots are my problem? The garden bed is small so changing the entire soil is not really a major problem.

taras49

Did you incorporate all that topsoil into the ground
underneath or did you just pile in the topsoil and
peatmoss and mix that together?

If you didn't incorporate, that could be contributing to
your shallow roots. Roots will follow the easiest path,
i.e. softest soil. Odds are the ground below your mix is a
lot harder than your soil mix.

That's exactly what I did. Can I fix it by turning over the soil a lot deeper in the spring? Should I also add more peat moss or some fertilizer?

Yes, turning over deeply will help the shallow roots. I do
this every spring/winter when preparing my beds.

It'll be a lot of work, but may I suggest this approach...
Take about half of the soil/peat moss mix and pile it to
the side. Then turn over as deeply as you can to mix the
underlying soil with the added materials. Then add the
stuff you took out and mix that well.

It may seem like more work, but trying to mix things
together in a full bed is kind of tricky. Half the stuff
ends up where you don't want it since it will spill over
the sides of your raised bed. I know...been there, done that.

More peat moss or other organics won't hurt. Anything to
soften up the soil.

When I first did my raised beds, I had to stand on my
spading fork (a very useful tool) to get it to penetrate
the soil. Now, after a few years, I can push the spading
fork in with just arm pressure.

I don't know what your soil type is or what it needs but will say I have NOT tilled or turned over any of my soil since going to raisedbeds and the Square Ft Gardening method.

The idea is to never walk on the soil in the beds and let the worms do the work. Not only is it less work, I can drop the fork and it will go into the soil far enuff to cover the tines.

Describe how you plant your tomato plants - that could be a factor in your problem too.

The new soil is just from 75 bags of inexpensive top soil from Home Depot and 1 bag of peat moss. I can easily get my times in deep enough to cover the tines but I know the bottom soil is fairly dense. It's a rather small bed so digging deeper is not that daunting a task.
As far as how I plant them; I basically dig a hole and drop them in.