Blossom drop. Everything else I can live with because without any fruit the rest of the problems are moot. :)

Dave

Late Blight. It's ended two of the last three seasons I grew tomatoes.

Fusarium. It would open up an entire world of possibilities in terms of growing heirlooms! I would be so excited I would grow one of about 40 different tomatoes.

Bacterial Wilt. It's heartbreaking to see beautiful healthy-looking plants with big fruit on them suddenly succumb overnight.

Blossom drop also. It seems like everything else is controllable/preventable to some degree except blossom drop. I can't control the heat/humidity and lately we have gone from too hot/humid to pollinate to too cold to pollinate.

As they say, Florida is warm enough to grow 'em and cold enough to kill 'em.

Early Blight, only had issue one year, but now I spend so much time trying not to get it again.
Also, I wish I didn't have so many tomatos with bad spots on the top. Not sure what this is, maybe it was the heat wave this summer.

Blossom end rot, I had it and noticed it very early in the season. Lack of calcium is usually the cause. I called the hot line ortho 1 800 225 2883 described the problem and they said most likely not a blight or fungus.They suggested bone meal, liquid calcium,blossom end rot spray. I used all of the above and saved all my plants. I'm sure if I didn't notice the fruit rotting so early I would have no tomato's now.

This has been my worst tomato yr. ever. Many other problems. Critters,white fly weather. But I am harvesting tomato's just not as many.0719261017260

nerak, Blossom End Rot is a condition that only affects the fruit of young plants. Further, it mostly affects certain types of tomatoes (Romas and other pastes, beefsteaks, other large or medium size fruit), but is rarely if ever seen in cherry, grape, or currant tomatoes.

The spray does nothing to solve the problem -- and neither does adding other calcium supplements. The plant actually has plenty of calcium: it just isn't able to move the calcium fast enough to where it's needed (the developing fruit). BER is "cured" naturally when the plant matures a bit and can move nutrients more quickly to the fruit where they are needed.

Yes, your plants stopped having new cases of BER after you followed the hotline's instructions -- but that would have happened anyway, even without the sprays and calcium supplements. When I noticed my young plants' few cases of BER this spring, I did nothing about it (except to discard the most-damaged fruit), and the BER stopped without any sprays or additives.

By the way, the normally-colored parts of fruit with BER are perfectly edible. They don't look pretty, but if the BER spot is small, you may wish to leave them on the vine.