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Can a dw panel be reused?

14 years ago

If I panel my dw and the dw goes kaput in a few years, (2-y-old low end Miele,) can the panel be taken off and put on another panel-ready dw? I'm thinking paneling could be quite a waste of money if this isn't possible, with the average age of appliance deaths going down.

Comments (12)

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    There is no definate answer, but in most cases yes you can.

    I HIGHLY doubt a miele will go kaput in two years anyway. Twenty two years maybe.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Yes. Mostly. It's easier with the integrated models that are in style today because they're a fairly standard size and shape. My first DW went back to the maker. The current one (different brand) has the same panel, reworked a little.

    Be aware that the European DWs are metric and a little smaller, but if you're going from Miele to Miele there shouldn't be a big issue. Even if the mounting is different, I doubt it would be unusable. Just fill the old holes, if necessary (i.e., if the mounting is almost, but not quite, the same).

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Euro to euro would be easiest, but even euro to american may work. It depends on how large the opening for the dishwasher has been made rather than how large the dishwasher is. A lot of people will build the space for their dw to accomodate an american size unit even if they plan on having a euro unit. When the euro unit is installed it is then fitted with some trim peices/fillers to make up the 1/4" or so. With a custom panel, the panel is then built to fit the opening of the dw cubby, meaning the panel may very well extend beyond the sides of the euro unit by 1/4". theoretically the dishwasher could be only a couple of inches wide, and the panel could make it look like a perfect fit.

    Your general contractor, interior designer, cabinet maker will know all of this.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    All of the major DW manufactuters have the cabinet panel cutout dimensions online, so you can compare them (this won't tell you what will be available in a few years though). This is easier if you have a full coverage panel that doesn't leave the top 3 to 6 inches for an exposed control panel.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    a panel is made to fit the space.

    if your DW space is 24", then a panel is made to be (e.g.) 23.875" so that it leaves the same small gap between all the doors and drawer fronts. Consistency.

    If you have a Euro size DW, the panel covers it. Although the DW is a fraction of an inch smaller than 24 inches wide, this is Not a big deal. The panel covers it.

    if your panel is made to be precisely 600 mm, which doesn't fill a 24" space, then you have a wider gap there than elsewhere in your kitchen. This makes no sense. Once in a while I have read about a homeowner hiring someone to make a panel, and having a problem because the guy made the panel to match the 600mm size of the DW instead of making the panel match the space.

    Why is this important? Because any panel made to match the space will be reuseable when removed from a Euro model and installed onto an American model. I think you can safely dismiss any thoughts about needing another Euro DW id the panel came off of a Euro DW.

    (b.t.w. the other dimension of an American DW is also larger: the "depth" distance to the back).

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    David is exactely right. Its been what I have been trying to say. As I said your general contractor and or interior designer and or cabinet maker will likely know this.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    ^^^

    as long as you are replacing like for like it's not an issue.

    i.e. - taking a panel made for a European sized Miele and using it on an Asko, or Bosch or Blomberg or Smeg or one of the others available in the U.S..

    Taking a panel from one of those and trying to use it on a KitchenAid, JenAir, ect... will present some issues as well as going from those to a Euro brand/model.

    It all boils down to the planning width for your DW. If 60cm was use you can not then change to an opening of 24" and not have issues, and vice versa.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I've seen that people still use a 24" opening.
    If their 60cm DW could be fit into a smaller opening, people still use a 24" opening. A slight sliver of space is left over.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    david - you should at least be consistent with your advice !

    on one hand:

    "then you have a wider gap there than elsewhere in your kitchen. This makes no sense. "

    yet :

    "A slight sliver of space is left over."

    doesn't bother you?

    In addition - the slight "sliver" is 3/8" or 3/16" each side which is a lot more than a typical door / drawer front reveal.

    People - the best policy is to size your DW opening according to the DW's specifications !

    If you buy a European DW - then you make your opening 60cm wide. If you get a domestic made unit - you make it 24" wide.

    Preforming all of these mental gyrations and ordering up additional carpentry is silly. Euro DWs have been 60cm for ever and will continue to be so. There will always be a healthy selection of units to choose from to put in you 60cm hole if you or a subsequent owner want or needs to replace it.

    Don't loose sleep of hair over worrying about planning for a DW sizing contingency. Believe me, even if you nail that - you'll have forgotten to pre-plan for some other "what if" in the kitchen.

    Just get what you want and need now and stop worrying.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    no, boy. "A slight sliver of space is left over." = between the DW's body (carcass) and the adjacent cabinet.

    I'll repeat what has already been said about the panel: it is made to fill the 24" opening.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Davidro1 is 100% right antss

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    sorry boys but david is not right.

    It's OK that you guys don't really car about the looks when the DW door is open, but my client's and I certainly won't accept a 3/16" gap on the sides of the DW carcass between it and the adjacent cabinets.

    It's fine if you want to call that a "sliver" - I wouldn't, but we can agree to disagree on that bit. But, it's pretty much the same "sliver" you complained about showing in your "Consistency" example. I mean if a sliver is no big deal, why does it matter if it's beside or behind a DW panel ???

    At any rate I find that 3/16" each side unacceptable, sliver or chasm. It also makes for an install problem as the DW carcass has room to wiggle in that 3/8" and that'll cause the panel we're talking about to become mis-aligned over time. It's just poor execution.

    Sure you can add some fillers , strips , ect... in the 3/16" 5/8" but that's kinda bush league and adds to the time and cost of the install. Remember you'll need to add fillers front and rear or the unit will rack in the opening and play havoc on the panel alignment.

    What's the big deal with making the opening 60cm like called for??? There will always be plenty of choices to fit that width exactly.

    Are you guys that paranoid or self doubting that you'll think you'll want a domestic model that'll only fit in 24" right after you buy and install a 60cm unit ? Really ?

    For real ?

    No, seriously ?

    Did you guys leave xtra room in your oven cabinet to allow for a wider or taller oven next time that needs to be replaced, or potential buyer doesn't like your brand? Oops.

    What about the space allotted for you cooktop - those FREQUENTLY change dimensions even from the same manufacturer. OK smartypants- you made the cabinet xtra wide to accommodate that possibility - but what did you do about the countertop cut out ??? Did you have an xtra drawerhead made so that when I choose a model that is deeper than the one you have and I loose the drawer underneath I have a new matching one that will make up the space difference?

    If you have gas top now - did you run a sizable 220v electrical line so I can get rid of that piece of junk and get an induction top? Have induction already ? Did you run a gas line so I can actually cook on my anodized calphalon pots/pans buy buying a gas top? Tisk, tisk.

    Is your p-trap low enough so that the new buyer can have a deeper sink than the one you've got now? Is it low enough for a deeper sink + a disposal? How about a supercharged one in which the distance between flange and outlet is greater than the standard model down at your home center? - Making the placement of that p-trap for the xtra deep sink and the supercharge disposal even lower.

    Shall I continue?

    Kitchens are full of places one might plan for some random eventuality, if you don't plan for all of them how do think you are going to guess exactly which one(s) will be needed or wanted later?

    You won't - just install the products as they are intended, and stop worrying. Remodelers are still going to need customers and this site traffic in 2,5,12 - years give em something to do.