There are myriad reasons grout can fails...the product, the installer, environmental conditions, etc.

Anti-Hydro is normally used as an admix, that's the only way I've seen it used. It is also advertised as being a topically applied repair/consolidator, but I've never seen it used that way.

The thing is that if your grout didn't hydrate properly, why didn't it?

If the batch itself was bad (too little portland in the bag of grout) then there may not be much for the A-H to "rehydrate".

If the installer messed up the installation, or if the room was too cold for the grout to properly cure, then the A-H could help.

There also exists the possibility that you'll get blotchyness in the coloration of the final product. With this being new grout, you should get fairly even absorption over the course of treatment, because I believe you apply the product then cover the area with plastic sheeting and let it sit for a 2 or 3 days.

Personally, I'd rip out and replace the grout. My mantra is that I don't repair new installations. I give you new installations that don't need to be repaired. It's neither pleasant nor pretty doing that, but hey, it's the price you pay for glory in the construction biz.

However, if you want to give A-H a shot, just talk the ramifications of an inadequate repair through with your GC and tile guy beforehand.

I think I'd be telling the rep I want new grout. He's trying to cover his company's a$$, and doing it in a lousy way. I WILL say this for him, though-- atleast he didn't tell you right off it was installer error (although I don't know how he COULD). Custom's reps are notorious for that, though. Everything that happens is the installer's fault and too much water. If the HOUSE were to cave in, it'd be the installer's fault and too much water. Get my drift?

Mongo - Thanks for the throrough response. It was very helpful.

Bill - Yes, my installer warned me that the grout company would blame him for using too much water... It seems very unlikely that it was installer error, though, since he is a professional with tons of experience using a grout he always uses.

Fortunately, the result from the test application was clear-cut. The Anti-Hydro did nothing to improve the grout. I think my tile guy is going to have the Custom rep come over to inspect the grout. Hopefully he can get the company to reimburse him for his time to replace the grout.

Do you have any recommendations for sucessfully replacing grout. My biggest concerns are:

1. Removing the grout will damage the tile.
2. Removing the grout will damage the surface under the tiles (I think he used "easyboard" on the walls/tub deck and mudset shower pan - he also painted the walls/tub deck with a red gel).
3. Residue from the bad grout will inhibit adhesion of the new grout to the tile.

How can I address these concerns.

Anything else I need to be aware of?

Thanks.

If the grout is that soft, it should score out easily with a utility knife and shop-vac. It shouldn't damage the tile, but if he used easyboard, he'll have to be careful in the shower to make sure he doesn't slice the easyboard and Redgard all to hell. As for the residue, he could scrub it all down with a brush and water, vacuum it up, and then allow to dry for a couple of days before he regrouts.

Just curious... if he doesn't plan to do some of the steps outlined above - how in the world does a customer request this without coming across as a jerk. You see, he's the professional and it is rude of me to suggest how he should do the job. Even if I ask questions about how he plans to remove the grout, it can be taken as questioning his expertise. I really like my installer and I don't want our relationship to head south over something like this.

Thanks

I've outlined how I would handle the situation. You might ask him what HE intends to do. Being that there's already a problem on the project, you're well within reason to question how things are going to proceed. Don't get scared. Customers have rights, too! :-)

Good advice. Thank you. I don't think I'll have to say anything but I will speak up if I need to.

I am disappointed that this happened to my bathroom. I have this sinking feeling that the removal/replacement of the grout is somehow going to negatively impact the final result compared to the grout being good to start with. If the grout removal/replacement is done correctly, do you think there is a good chance that the outcome will be just as good as if this problem never happened?

Absolutely. As tile project problems go, this is minor! Don't stress so much! It'll be fine. :-)

I had to remove grout once, many years ago, and it was from Custom. We bickered until they sent a rep out, once he saw the grout he promptly wrote me a check.

I removed the old with a diamond bit in a dremel type of tool. Zipped up and down, left and right, and when I was done I was in an Alaskan whiteout. Sooo much dust.

The diamond cut through the grout fairly easily though with no damage to the backer board nor to the tile edges or faces.

Regrouted and it looked just like new.

Best bet is to do what you've been doing:

1) How will this get fixed.
2) IF that doesn't work, what then?
3) Have you considered trying this...

But again, my mantra is that in construction, band-aids don't work. Sometimes you just gotta get in there and re-break then reset the bone.

Bill said:

"he'll have to be careful in the shower to make sure he doesn't slice the easyboard and Redgard all to hell".

Well, he hired a buddy to remove the grout and it looks like the Redgard and Easyboard has gotten a bit cut up (even some of the mesh tape that goes on the seams of the Easyboard). The place that really freaked me out was the part of the tub deck that is in the shower (the glass shower walls sit on the tub deck with about 6 inches of it inside the shower. I called my tile installer an he reassured me that the Redgard was only an extra precaution - there is a liner that runs up and over the tub deck beyond where the glass wall will sit AND there is a slight pitch to the top of the tub deck toward the shower. Luckily he hasn't started on the rest of the shower and he's going to remind the guy to be more careful. This is okay, then, huh?

Thanks

"I had to remove grout once, many years ago, and it was from Custom. We bickered until they sent a rep out, once he saw the grout he promptly wrote me a check."

For the cost of the whole bag, Mongo?
Or was there a little something in there for labor?

This is okay, then, huh?

IF he's got a shower liner that goes all the way up and under the tubdeck, yes, it's okay. I'm HIGHLY suspect of that, though. It's not very often the liner goes more than 8-10" up the wall You'll find out the first time you go to use the shower, though. Simply remove the access panel to the tub and look underneath to see if there's any water coming through after you use the shower.

Sweeby,

It was kind of funny.

He said, well...I can cut you a check for $500.

I remarked "FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS?" in a very surprised voice, eyebrows raised, the whole shebang. I thought all they'd offer was just what you said, a bag of grout and maybe a $20 bill to buy lunch. So my reply was one of total surprise.

He took my suprise as indignation, then upped the offer to $800.

"EIGHT HUNDRED DOLLARS! ARE YOU KIDDING?" I exclaimed, to which he said something like "honestly sir, I'm not even supposed to go over $500. But I can throw in a couple of bags of grout. I declined the grout.

So he cut me the check for $800 and surprise of all surprises, a few days later UPS showed up and dropped off a couple of bags of grout.

On a separate occasion I remember calling Custom tech support way back when and asking a few questions. I then got transferred to customer service. They offered me $300 "for my troubles".

But I told them I wasn't having troubles. I was calling to ask technical questions about a possible installation.

I got transferred to a supervisor.

They sent me a check for $300.

Well, we don't have an access panel...(my tub is a soaking tub only). My contractor assured me several times that the liner went up over the tub deck - he said it went beyond the window which is 4 or 5 inches past the glass enclosure. If I don't have an access panel, how else could I tell if the shower was leaking?

My question is that if the liner went up the tub apron/shower wall vertically, then over horizontally across the tub deck, and he put easyboard over it, then the easyboard is most likely nailed or screwed through the liner on the upper part of the tub apron/shower wall as well as on the top of the tub deck.

And congratulations to him for properly folding, seaming, and installing a piece of membrane that large, those can be unruly.

I hope these repairs work out for you.

Jenn, what did you wind up doing? I am having a similar problem.

Having the same problem. Wondering how this all turned out. Also wondering what order of tradesmen I need to call in. I’ve got a new build that the builder walked away from. weve been here a month and the shower is leaking into the floor outside the shower and came to realize the grout is just sitting in the seams like sand. Ugh.

Grout is not waterproof at all and is never intended to be a water blocker. Theoretically you should be able to take a shower with no tile and grout installed and have no water leakage. Post up pics of the shower construction in progress along with every step they took during construction. What materials did they use? Was the shower pan flood tested? How build the shower and installed the tile? A tile professional or the "builder" himself.