How thick are the floors?

15 years ago

2 Quick questions:

If we wanted to tile the big bathroom, and planned to take the room all the way down to the joists, how thick is the whole subfloor plus thinset plus tile?

125+yr old house: Current subfloor is 1x5ish planks (true old dimentional lumber) running perpendicular to the joists, and the floor is probably out of level by 1-2in over 10ft due to settling at the middle of the house so high on the outside wall, low in the middle (resupported long ago, but they didn't correct the floors).

What is the proper subflooring for tile - is it 2 layers of 5/8th plywood plus thinset + ditra, plus tilewarmer stuff, plus thinset + tile?

Question 1: How thick is the floor usually measuring from the joists? (I know the tile thicknesses vary - we'd probably do a small basketweave or hex tile.

I'm trying to decide if we'd have a major problem with a transition into the hall - where there's a very thin oak strip floor on the old subfloor. Currently the bathroom flooring meets up even - and the flooring in the bath is vinyl right on the plank subfloor (no underlay ply or hardboard!) The floor in the hall will eventually be replaced with traditional 3/4in hardwood.

Question 2: - the basement bath - currently it's down to the dirt! (Old slab was very thin + cracked so we tore the whole thing out and will dig down for a 4in slab) So when we pour the slab, how much room do we leave for everything that goes on the slab so I can meet level with the rest of the basement?

Always ;-)

Hunzi

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Comments (5)

don92
15 years ago
If you were to go with a 3/4" t&g subfloor and your joists are on 16" centers and the span is exceptable that would be enough subfloor for 1/2" Hardi board and the tile. So you would be looking at 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 with tile.

Not sure of your second question. What is on the existing basement floor that you are trying to meet up with?

As for pouring the slab. If you are removing a section of floor, before you pour the new slab make sure there is a good bed of sand or gravel and wire and if you cannot tie into the old slab (sounds like you can't) then you will need to pour a floating slab with 12" x 12" footer around the perimeter. Pouring a portion of slab independent of the rest could cause movement.
hunzi
Original Author
15 years ago
Thanks Don!

On the basement - in this old house (1884), apparently there wasn't a basement at first. The basement was dug out later, we're guessing in the 1920s - with 3ft trays around the parameter to avoid disturbing the foundations. And whoever did the concrete (probably a previous homeowner in the 50's-60's) just poured concrete right on the dirt, probably a sack/wheelbarrow of concrete at a time. So my basement floor (everywhere) is wavy and hugely out of level and uneven in thickness,(We're finishing about half the basement (500sqft) into a media room and bathroom - other half is utility space. Plan is to pour self leveling compound and then pad & carpet the rest of the finished space which will be a tv room). In the future bathroom area, the concrete was less than 2" thick in places. DH broke it to expose the waste line and when he saw how bad it was he took out the whole room (10x9), so I'm back to a dirt floor in the bathroom which really isn't the "restored" look I'm going for!

Always ;-)
Hunzi
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don92
15 years ago
Be aware that self leveling compound has no psi strength and if the existing floor is cracked, thin and poured on dirt the compound alone will not be enough. Self leveling compound is an underlayment only.
hunzi
Original Author
15 years ago
So is it ok to use the SLC on the parts of the concrete that will be under the carpeted areas (with pad) where all I want is a level floor? If not, what would be a better option?

I'd really like to tear out the whole darned slab and have someone come in and put in a proper one, but that's not in the budget!

Always ;-)
Hunzi
don92
15 years ago
If you are willing to spend the money, time and effort with the slc that will be all your out. Carpet is absolutely the ONLY thing you could put down. You can always pull the carpet up and pour the floor correctly down the road. Since you are sitting on dirt I would also recommend laying 4 or 6 mil. under the padding for moisture protection. You could also use Dryloc but its expensive and since your project is hopefully semi-temporary the plastic will do fine. Don