Switch replacement on GE Profile gas range

15 years ago

I'm doing some major surgery on our GE Profile gas range. Looks like my DW let something boil over and spill into the oven.....the initial symptom was that the burners kept turning off.....then the ignitor wouldn't stop clicking. When I pulled the top, you could see the damage - it's lucky she didn't' burn the whole house down. The lamp and its harness is melted...The ignitor wiring harness is damaged, and two switches are 'fried' (literally). They've partially melted, too.

For most of the repair, it's easy - match the colors, disconnect/reconnect, and you're back in business. The issue is the burner/ignition switches - they look like it's one continuous set of wire through all 4 front switches....and the switches don't look like they come apart. So....do I strip/splice/wire nut the new switch in to the existing wiring? A picture of the switch is here:

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Comments (3)

mojavean
15 years ago
It looks to me as if you will have to cut the failed switches out of the existing harness and connect the new switches by way of electrical splices. Optimally, solder and use shrink tubing to make the connections. You could also try crimpable butt connectors, but solder is preferred. Be sure to leave plenty of extra wire in the existing harness, but if you have melted insulation ANYWHERE, that section of wire will have to be replaced.

If you do use solder, don't forget to slide the shrink tubing onto the wire BEFORE soldering the joint. Also, be certain that you have the switches oriented properly for correct operation with the gas valves before you solder anything.

Youtube has several videos on techniques for splicing wires that you can review if you are unfamiliar with the task. Best of luck!
kokomo61
Original Author
15 years ago
The swap was fairly easy - the wiring underneath the panel isn't exposed to very high temperatures (not like the inside or top of the range)....so cutting out the old switch, and wiring in the new one worked. One bizarre wrinkle, though.

Once I hooked everything up, the ignitor wouldn't work for that burner. I took out that switch, put in another one....and discovered that the ignitor DOES work....but it works in a different place. Instead of clicking off right after you turn the switch (like the other 3 burners do), you have to turn it all the way to the left....THEN the ignitor clicks on. What in the heck would cause that? I thought that the switch may be wired backward......but all the colors match.

I asked the repair guy if the switch was adjustable...so that it would ignite in the right position, and he said no. So....the switch WORKS....but it doesn't match the knob labeling. Any ideas on how to get it to kick off in the right place?
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llaatt22
15 years ago
You might have to try digging up a wiring diagram and/or schematic on the internet or somewhere for your stove and a similar model newer one to see if they contain modification notes for components, wiring changes, or even additional knob changes. Over time, companies will often discontinue unique parts for a series of appliances in favor of a "one size fits all part" under the same part number which requires a bit of fiddling by the installer. If you get a chance to look at how the labeling of the actual knob on an equivalent newer stove compares that could be useful too.