Natural gas releases moisture when it's burned.That's 100% normal. However, the stove should not be discharging oven heat onto your backsplash. What type of rear trim did you get? This sounds like maybe you installed it without trim?

We have the smallest trim that Wolf sells, which means it's about an inch high.

Thank you for letting me know that that much moisture is not normal.

It depends on where that exhaust is focused and whether or not you are using your hood if that's normal. Island trim against a back wall is to be discouraged because it doesn't protect the wall from the heat and humidity of oven exhaust. This is why many pro range manufacturers require that the backsplash extend down the wall by at least 6" below the range. You need a taller backguard if you want less condensation to deal with. And you need to use your hood. If the wall is an external one, and you live in a cold climate, expect the condensation to get worse as the weather gets colder. Most older homes (and plenty of new ones) don't really have enough insulation in their exterior walls. Then you have hot moist exhaust touching that cool to cold wall, and it's just like a glass of iced tea in the summer. It gets covered in condensation.

Based on the additional information about your install, what you have is a normal situation for the way you chose to install your range.

Holly springs, thank you for your comments. That's interesting to hear about the backguard. The appliance salesperson told us that that we needed to buy the trim so that's what we bought. There was never any mention that this range wold require one of the larger trims. It never occurred to us that it would be a problem.

We do use the exhaust fan but I have not been consistently using it when only the oven is on.
Wolf service tells me that all the condensation is normal, as is the constant clanging when the oven is on. A neighbor with the same range, same trim, has none of these issues so I guess I'm confused. We'll try using the exhaust fan all the time and hopefully it will resolve the condensation issue.

Take a picture, show us so we can see. Skip it, though, if your camera doesn't have a decent macro mode.

-Stooxie

If the clanging doesn't stop or lessen, you could ask to have the oven floor swapped out. The expansion and contraction of the metal is causing the noise you hear. We had ours swapped out and it helped with that. Still some popping on initial heat up (I think some noise is from our door/glass), but not constant noise like we had with the original floor.

catmom- thanks for that suggestion. I have a service call scheduled so I will definitely ask about that. Do you have a gas oven or dual-fuel?

Wolf says that the trim that we used (the island trim) is perfectly fine for our use.

Even with the fan running the entire time the oven is on, there is still a lot of water dripping off the backsplash. By a lot I mean in a 2' x 2' area the tiles are wet and dripping. Last night the grout got stained just from using the oven. Apparently it vented directly onto the tiles and grout that are along the top of the oven. I'm so frustrated... how do we know if it's an issue with the oven itself or with the way it was installed?

Could anyone with a gas oven please weigh in as to whether you see this in your house? Our oven is on an interior wall with ceramic tile backsplash.

Thank you!

This may be a dumb question but is it possible that your island trim is mounted backwards? It should be venting towards the front of the range not the wall. I know this is a long shot but I thought I'd ask.

I've had the Wolf AG for about two years now with the island trim. My backsplash is all glass tiles. When using the oven, I always turn on my exhaust fan. The glass tiles get warm and might occasionally have a bit of moisture, but they are definitely not dripping wet.

It sounds as though your range is working just fine, but that perhaps your hood can't keep up with the normal condensation that burning natural gas produces.

What kind of configuration does your hood have? Is it a plain straight shot to the exterior for the ducting? Or are there a lot of turns and distance? Are you going out the roof or a wall? Every twist and turn of duct run takes away from the ability of a fan to suck out the bad stuff. The shorter and straighter the run is, the more work those Cubic Feet per Minute actually manage to do.

Who installed the ducting, what kind is it (rigid or flex, and what size) and did they install any in line dampers? Exterior damper caps? If a "handyman" installed the ducting, they may have used an incorrect pipe size, such as a 6" duct when they should have used a 10" duct. Flex ducting has ridges in it that reduces the airflow and let the air deposit small grease particles in the ducting. If any dampers were installed to keep out the cold air in winter, they may have been installed backwards, or be partially blocked or frozen in a partially closed or closed position.

How far from your cooking surface is the bottom edge of the hood? How many CFM does it have, and what speed do you typically use when baking or roasting? Hoods that are installed too high or without enough CFM won't typically vent ordinary cooking by products very well, and when you get to high performance situations, forget it entirely.

How new is your house? How airtight? If you have a newer home that is fairly air tight and a high CFM fan, you may not have enough air infiltration in order to have air flow. It's like sucking on a blocked straw. No air moves anywhere until there is some air introduced at the bottom of the straw. You may need make up air. You can experiment to see if your air flow becomes better by opening a window. If this improves the hood's air flow, then you've got a serious issue on your hand that needs immediate attention. Your furnace, fireplace, gas dryer, or other gas fired appliance can backdraft and fill your home with carbon monoxide when your hood is being operated.

You're just going to have to play detective here and go through the possibilities to rule them out.

Hollysprings, thanks for suggesting that we look into the install of the hood.
We have a 42" hood with 36" range. 600 cfm. We've been using the lowest speed on the hood because we typically cook pasta, make marinara sauce, fry chicken cutlets ( higher speed for that). We don't do much frying. The oven is usually used for vegetables or baking desserts.
Hood is 30" above cooktop. The duct makes one turn before it exits the side of house. It's a rigid duct, which I believe is about 3" x 10" and transitions to 8".

Our house is over 80 years old and unfortunately not very airtight so I doubt the makep air is an issue for us.

It's not a bad idea to have the GC check the damper.

How do we test the effectiveness of the hood? I held a sheet of paper up to it and it grabbed onto it, but only once it was almost touching the baffles. Is this how it should be? We've never had a range hood before so I have nothing to compare it to.