I don't think I would be concerned for just this fridge, but for any possible replacement in the future. Most new fridges with 20cf or more are at least 33 inches wide. Most are 36 inches wide and 34 or more inches deep. If you ever want to replace this fridge and want to go larger, you are stuck. The ventilation issue is important, but also consider the base molding as well as possible future replacement of the refrigerator. New homes typically have larger fridges in the models. You may actually be limiting your resale with such a small fridge if the new construction is meant for a family type home. Good luck
G

I agree. I didn'tthink anyone would build a space less than 36-37". Even then, you can run into some issues with door swings and clearances. I'd go a little larger unless this is a small house that will never have more thanone or two poeplr in int even if remodeld.

You'll be happier with more wiggle room in order to shove that thread into your needle eye; you'd better have an automatic threader with only 1/4" clearance (total). Something will likely get scratched, and your fingers pinched for sure.

My counter-depth KA 21.3 cu.ft. fridge is 34 inches wide, the opening is 37" - positioning it wasn't even fun.

Sorry, I should have mentioned that it's a small townhouse. I'm still debating if it's even worth getting this fridge or saving my money and getting the regular top freezer kind. It's a starter home, and I don't plan on staying there longer than five years (and when selling, the appliances will be included).

FWIW, I mainly wanted this fridge for the filtered water and ice dispensers. It also looks really nice!

Is it stuffed between panels or just cabinets? You said "counters" so I wasn't sure. If there are no side panels it'll be a tiny bit easier to get it in the hole, and you'll probably be OK on side ventilation. Also, is it counter depth or standard? If it's standard depth, the 33" will be more than plenty for a townhouse I should think.

Is there any way to get the builder to give you an extra half inch or so to meet the manufacturer's install specs? There are lots of 33" fridges out there, but it'll be pretty hard to get ANY of them into a real 33" hole!

(I think if you found a fridge you really like, splurge and get it if it fits. It's hard to get passionate about a fridge so if you do, go with it!)

Nope, no panels as far as I know. And it's a standard depth. I really like the fridge, but it's about double the price of our next choice (basic top mount). I don't know what to do. :( If this were a permanent house, it would be an easy decision.

Uncouzi,

The 33" refrigerator opening has been a standard in apartments and town houses for many years. It was originally intended to provide adequate ventilation for 30" fridges with condenser coils on the back. Less clearance is needed with modern fridges and some manufacturers have sized wider fridges to fit snugly into these existing 33" openings. It sounds like the one you're looking at is one of them. It would be fine in the 33" opening.

I'm one of the minority here that likes top freezer fridges. They are more efficient than bottom freezers or side-by-sides and, as you pointed out, they cost a lot less. There are just the two of us at home now, so we freeze a lot of leftovers. Between the easily accessible freezer and the door shelves I'm sure we do less bending over with our 30" top freezer than we would do with a bottom freezer.

(Out in the real world, more top freezer fridges are sold than all other configurations combined.)

--Doug

velodoug, thank you! That's quite reassuring! I just hope the builder doesn't fudge the measurements since there's basically no room for error.

I definitely hear you on the top mount fridges being more space efficient. The main reason I want the side-by-side is for the filtered water and ice dispensers. We will be freezing a lot of stuff as well, but we're planning on getting an extra freezer for the basement.