Take a look at the link below. It's the "sell sheet" which contains detailed installation dimensions. It seems pretty clear based on this that standard 24" base cabinets are usable but you can provide an optional corner support for the front of the rangetop if required/desired.

Good luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Culinarian spec sheet...

I'm not an expert but also have a Culinarian rangetop on order. The Precision line ( should be the same size ) specs are on the Capital web site:

http://capital-cooking.com/product/documents/Precision_36_Rangetop_SellSheet.pdf

The spec sheet provides 2 different ways to install the rangetop. On a 24 inch base cabinet part of the front of the rangetop will extend but is designed to go in that way. Of course, you can opt for a larger base cabinet and flush mount the rangetop.

Hopefully, those with rangetops installed will chime in here! Good luck John

Either way is fine, it just depends on the look you are trying to achieve. Many don't have the luxury of the space required for 26-27" base cabinets so 24" is what you see most.

How is the cabinet maker going to deal with the unit that's pulled forward or will the entire run be at 27" deep? Corbels? Plain finished sides? angled filler pieces?

Thanks for the responses. It seems that all believe as I do that it can be put on a 24" base cabinet as long as I am willing for it to overhang by over 2".

Amcook-the link provided is some of the material I have been looking at , but find confusing. The way I interpret fig. 1 is that it shows the countertop over the cabinets (this is what is notched) and it shows the floor, but does not show a platform. It cannot be determined from the drawing if the stiles are part of the rangetop base cabinet or the cabinets on each side of the rangetop base. Also, I cannot understand why the countertop is notched (since the top of the rangetop looks to be a rectangle), but I can understand why it would need to be supported by the 2X4 at the corner if the counter is notched. Since the cabinet and rangetop will be installed before the counter fabricator takes his measurements, I was not concerned about this notch for the time being. I do though have to get the order placed for the cabinet so that I don't loose warranty time while I wait to install the appliance.

Antss-I am actually putting this in an island that will have stools on the opposite side with the counter extended for a knee well. So with a 27" cabinet I would loose the depth of the knee well by the 3" additional cabinet. Since we are somewhat limited in aisle space on both sides I would prefer a deeper knee well and to have the rangetop extend on the cooking side (though I may move it back an inch or so,but not the whole 3").

Again thanks for the responses, but I still do not understand the Capital directions.
Tom

The countertop overhangs 24" base cabinets by an inch, so the rangetop extends past the countertop by 1 or 2 inches, which should not be a big deal unless you're very tight on space.

As to the cabinet/installation design I suggest you call Capital directly and speak with them, or go through your dealer. They should be able to answer your questions.

Good luck,
Billy

"Also, I cannot understand why the countertop is notched"

The reason there is a notch in the countertop is that the front panel is wider (by an inch, 1/2 inch on each side) than the rest of the unit. That is, there is an overhanging lip around the unit about 1/2" wide (3/8" if I read it correctly). This means (apparently) that if your countertop is stiff enough it can hold up the unit itself, no platform below required. But the 2x4s are probably a good idea to stiffen the countertop.

"It cannot be determined from the drawing if the stiles are part of the rangetop base cabinet or the cabinets on each side of the rangetop base. "

They are not being specific about the base cabinet because it does not really matter. Stiles are not important (if I understand what you mean) since the weight is being carried by the countertop and the 2x4s if required.

A 24" base cabinet will result in the unit sticking out about 3" from the cabinet. If the counter overhang is 3" then the unit will be flush with the counter. If the counter overhang is 1", then it will stick out 2".

"Since the cabinet and rangetop will be installed before the counter fabricator takes his measurements, "

This sounds like a bad idea. Do you expect the counter guys to install the counter underneath the unit lip? Or will you remove it prior to counter installation?

Steelco,

I answered on the kitchen site. Bottom line is it depends on your backsplash and what you want it to look like installed. Page 4 is better than page 3 of the cut sheet and I agree they both could be much better. The "standard" installation would require a larger base according to their data but my experience is most ranges protrude a bit. The shelf dimensions are clear but you need to take the thickness of your countertop into consideration. I also would like to see if it actually is intended to "sit" on the countertop to be sure. I personally like them flush but....

Also, look at how much room they require for the gas line/regulator etc. behind drawers. I's a pain to have to modify them.

I have never installed one (or seen one up close ) of these so post pictures when your done. I'm sure all would benefit from seeing them.

Before I get shot on the backsplash comment, I have seen backsplashes that protrude quite a bit (large picture frames, large tile roosters) that could interfere with larger pans if they are on the back burners depending on the installation.

Steve

Again, to all thanks for the responses. Steve, thanks for your comment that the cut sheet could be better as I have been thinking I must be dense.

Anyway, with everyone's input I believe I finally do understand how this unit installs. The counter is supposed to go under the lip on the two sides (but only after the 2- 3/8" faceplate to the rear corner and along the back edge. I still don't know that one should rely on the counter to support the unit due to its weight and any full pots being cooked. This unit was designed not to be flush with the counter, although if one wants, they could make a modification to the counter around the cut-out edge (additional depth piece to go under the lip) but this would add more costs. I plan on using a platform and will not make it flush.

Essentially, the base cabinet needs to be 28-3/16" high all the way around the cabinet, when using a standard depth counter. I am installing this in an island so a backsplash is not part of my decision making. I am putting this on a 24" base cabinet but have the ability to slighly offset it as it backs up to a knee well for stools and additional counter overhang. I will have the unit in place (not connected) when the counter people come to make the template, but will have it removed during the counter install.

Well, this is how I understand the install. Hopefully I can get the cabinets ordered this week so I can move forward with the appliance order. I do not expect to be installing until late January or early February but will post pictures of the install and provide progress reports for those who need it in the future.
Tom

Steelcfo,

I had your same questions a couple of weeks ago and called capital to discuss. The details linked by amcook have been updated since my discussions with them. The original details did not dimension the utility location but only showed the hatched area as shown in Fig 1. Also the original details called for a 1"x2" strip of material at the abutment point to the back wall. Now they only show a sectional view of a support being required.

This might be TMI but this is what they told me about the install:

1. The notch in the cabinet is only required if you plan to flush mount
2. The unit will actually rest/be supported by the countertop material (2 sides and the back)

We exchanged several emails regarding no.2 because I was confused about the strip of material at the back wall until i realized that this strip would rest atop the cabinet back wall and hence a piece of the countertop cut to the proper width would rest on the cabinet back wall to support the back of the unit. So the unit will be supported on 3 sides by the countertop. I guess the only question now would be what should the width of this strip material be? I'm not sure why the 1"x2" dimension was deleted. Also, I just noticed that the details do not show a lip on the sides but there has to be one to rest on the countertop.

I'm awaiting a reply from capital for my email asking if a 3/4" wide strip matching the thickness of the cabinet back wall material would work.

If anybody has rangetop experience, do they normally rest on the countertop?

footwedge.. good questions and hoping for good answers! My rangetop should be here next week and the kitchen cabinets are being made as we speak. I would have guessed the rangetop would have sat on a platform and would not hang from the countertop. I wish Capital had published detailed instructions/drawings for this. Starting to think the cooktop was a much simpler approach after all!

Footwedge - thanks for providing the info you received from Capital. Since I am putting this in an island, I am not sure where the 1X2 back support is to be attached to carry the weight. The illustrations provided by Capital show an example of the island installation, but they still show a wall or maybe the back of a cabinet that it is attached to. This is another reason I am just going to build a platform that the rangetop can slide on as I am not willing to trust upwards of 250 lbs on my counters.

Jdavis37 - Congratulations on being so close to installation and please keep us updated on your process. In the end I am sure you will prefer the rangetop to a cooktop for the additional space for pots when cooking. And Amen on better documentation, although in looking at many of the other brands, no one does an outstanding job in this area.
Tom

You'll run into similar issues with your island vent hood. It has to have the vent pipe centered above the range,and the weight carrier has to be tied into the ceiling joists properly. This is relatively difficult for a DIYer who doesn't have much experience, so you might consider hiring an installer to do these tasks. The $700-$900 you spend doing that could be the difference between success and disaster.

I saw a picture of someone's BlueStar installation here the other day. It was installed flush with the countertop all around and protruded a couple inches from the front. They also used a platform.

Hence I'm guessing that you have a choice to either mount flush or mount onto the countertop at your discretion. You can mount something that heavy to the countertop IF you support the countertop from underneath, which is why they point out the 2x4s in the drawing. This is also true for folks attempting to mount a large-deep sink onto a countertop.

Antss has a good point. If you had the thing in front of you, many of these questions would go away.

BTW: whether it is the counter or the 'platform', both need to be supported to hold the weight. If this thing really does weight 250lbs, then your platform should be able to support your own weight, hence sitting on it would be a good test.

Weedmeister,
I was told by Capital that the 2x4 was only necessary if one was going to flush mount. It's supposed to support the outward corner.

If the unit rests atop the counter top would this not be strong enough. I would think, if the adjacent cabinet boxes are placed to minimize any counter top overhang along with the counter top material itself, that this would be sufficient (3/4" ply walls and 3cm granite).

What do y'all think? With this unit having a lip/rim around its' perimeter, I'm not sure it can be installed using a platform. I think you would end up with a gap between the bottom of the lip and the top of the counter top. If it sits atop the counter there should be no gap.

Just curious if either Footwedge or Steelcfo installed there capital rangetops yet? If so how did it go? Do you have a photos that you can share of the install. I have many of the same concerns that are addressed in this thread. Do you love your rangetop?

Rikerk - I have not installed as yet. Our project got delayed and now I have been waiting for the drywaller to come finish the ceiling. I don't want to install the new island and rangetop until the ceiling is done.

Anyway, we did remove the rangetop from the shipping carton this past weekend and have put it on the base cabinet to try to determine how we will mount it (this is sitting in the livingroom so not actually in place). FYI, we are also doing an island mount. I am using the dimensions listed on the "Specification" sheet from the Capital website but will verify tonight when I get home.

There is a lip that is 7/8" high with a 1/2" indentation on the sides. On the sides the indentation does not come all the way from the back to the front since the faceplate is the full width (in my case 36") across the front. This faceplate is 3-1/4" deep (including the bullnose). The indentation on the back is also 7/8" high but is only 3/8" deep. This indentation allows the rangetop to sit on the counter. I am going to have the granite people come and look at this before I finalize how I am installing as I want them to approve of the weight on the counter. Under this install method, I will not build a support platform. Due to the location of the gas inlet, this is preferred as I will not have to cut some of the corner cabinet support as the inlet is very close to the sides and back of the unit.

Regardless if it can be supported this way, I have concerns in that the rangetop will be 7/8" above the 36" counter top and the cooking grates are another 7/8" higher. So the actual cooking surface is 37-3/4" off the floor and this seems a little high for my wife. You can see photos of actual rangetops installed in the posting titled "Capital Culinarian owners, post reviews, photos, of your new range!" Trevor posted a rangetop on 1/6/11 that has been mounted on the counter, picture 1 and 3 show the amount the top sits above the counter fairly well. He also posted two pictures on 1/10/11 (Bistro is on the vent hood) that gives a good idea also of the mount on the counter. The 2nd picture shows something I will have as well in that if you look just below the drip pan, you can see a gap between the rangetop and the base cabinet. If I do this install, I will fill with a matching piece of cabinet material or molding.

If I go the route of a support platform (the platform will rest on the cabinet supports that run the sides of the inside of the cabinet) the rangetop can be lower (as the rangetop has a second indent even further on the bottom), but still not flush as the base cabinet would need to be significantly modified. So the rangetop would have a slight gap from the counter (similar to pictures of ranges) and would sit approximately 1/4" (not the grates but the stainless top) above the counter or 37-1/8" off the floor to the top of the grates. The disadvantage is the gap (spills could seep through and not as finished looking) on the sides and I would need to cut into the left side cabinet support for the gas inlet as the platform will rest on the cabinet supports and thus I have no clearance for the flexible gas line to connect to the inlet.

As I started out, I still do not know what way I am going, but will have a better idea next week. Unfortunately I do not have pictures but may try to post what it looks like sitting on the cabinet this weekend to give you a visual to go along with my explanations.

If possible, mount the ventilation hood so that the aperture is centered over the extent of the pans likely to be used on the various burners. This may prove to be centered over the cooktop front-to-back or it may be an inch or so offset depending on the placement of controls. In other words, you want to maximize the collection of rising and expanding effluent by using whatever overlap you have so it covers the effluent expansion zones as equally as possible.

kas

Steelcfo

Thanks for the update & I eagerly await your pictures. I will also try to find the pictures that you mentioned that Trevor posted.

Rikerk, you have pretty good timing because our cabinet installation began on Monday and the rangetop cabinet was installed today. I've been checking the measurements and not sure if I'm looking at the details correctly. In particular the 2x4 support requirement which I think I will need. The way I see it is the notch will occur in the countertop material not the cabinet. My question which I plan to all Capital tomorrow about is why do they require a 2x4 (1.5 x3.5) support yet they show a dimension "G" of 1/2". I think the support should only be a 1/2" wide matching the 1/2" indentation along the edge as mentioned by steelcfo.

The cabinet base is 24" deep but is pulled 2" away from the back wall. Thus the opening is 36" wide by 26 " deep. Also, the 2 adjacent pull out spice racks are offset 2" from the back wall. I took some pictures of the cabinet but cannot post them on this site. If you want to see them send me your email and you have my permission to post them in this thread.

footwedge

Can you email me the pictures so I can look at them. I have to try to make a decision asap & I think my KD is on vacation. my email address is bbuddies1968@aol.com
Thanks in advance.

Kim